Car trouble.

I hope he hasn't spent the money on a new pump before at least checking the pressure at the rail.
All of this shotgun maintenance is a bit disturbing.
But it's his money. Just want to help him out if possible.
The wiring should be wrung out and tested some more from what I've been reading as well.
Good Luck

99SuperchargedRiv wrote:

well i changed my mind on that because on my way back from the parts store she died 3 times and would not start the 3rd time so i bought a fuel pump and getting ready to replace it now

Did you get a chance to read the "Write Up" on here for pump removal and replacement. There's a lot of valuable info on here.

I had the fuel pressure tested and its fine. I'm not forking out alot of money I have a 97 also that has been totaled in the front. I have spent the last week running down wires and swapping parts except a couple new things like CPS and EGR valve. Can't afford to put it in the shop to be tested so I'm hoping for all the help i can get here. Right now its just process of elimination and i am stuck.

99SuperchargedRiv wrote:

I had the fuel pressure tested and its fine. I'm not forking out alot of money I have a 97 also that has been totaled in the front. I have spent the last week running down wires and swapping parts except a couple new things like CPS and EGR valve. Can't afford to put it in the shop to be tested so I'm hoping for all the help i can get here. Right now its just process of elimination and i am stuck.

Glad you had the fuel pressure tested before changing the pump.
Earlier it sounded like you were on your way to buy a pump and change it.
I think everyone on here has your best interest at heart and is trying to help in any way they can.
BTW, what was your fuel pressure readings at the fuel rail with key on, car not started (1) and with car running (2) ??

Also, are you good with wiring and checking resistance, etc.
Not to be disparaging in any way, but some people are just gun shy when it comes to wiring.
The reason I ask is that we have to be sure that you properly checked all the necessary wiring from the crank and cam position sensors to the harness connectors and then to the PCM to rule out any intermittant connection, corroded connection or shorted and or open circuits.
From how you describe the car reacting, even most recently stalling out 3 times and eventually restarting, it sure sounds like a wire or sensor problem. Or a loose connector at the ignition control module, dirty connections or a bad ground.
Have you removed the coils one at a time and checked that the connections underneath each one is clean and not corroded. This is an area known for corrosion. Also the black wire that comes off the back side of the Ignition Control Module connects to the engine by being bolted to a stud on the engine. Remove the nut that holds it on and clean the ring terminal with some sandpaper and make sure the wire isn't frayed at all. That ground wire is important for the operation of the Ignition System.
I wish i had some photo's to show you what I'm talking about but i don't.
If you have questions about any of this please ask and we can go over it one thing at a time hopefully. Unless of course you have already done all this and all checks good.?
Need to know.!!

Another note , The fuel pressure test HAS to be done while the car is misbehaving or you may not catch a intermittent pump failure.

Corrosion under each individual coil should not cause the stalling , just a really bad misfire.

99SuperchargedRiv wrote:

Hi, my name is LB and i have a 99 Riviera supercharged and it is using twice the fuel it usually does and it seem that it is not getting enough fuel. When in park it idles great, but when you put it in drive and step on the gas it fall flat on its face. When on the hwy trying to pass and kick it down it wants to shut off. I have replaced the camshaft position sensor, EGR valve, cleaned the mass air flow and gave it a complete tune up and new fuel filter. If anyone has any answers for me it would be great. It's a great car just running a little rough when driving. PLEASE HELP!!!!!

Re-Posting his initial post from page one as a reminder to what he's been experiencing.

Has it been doing this long enough to rule out a completely BAD tank of gas.? It's been happening lately, Bad gas that is.

Hmmm... I think you're onto something. Gas from the end of an underground tank (too much ethanol) would do this.

If the tank is not full try putting in a couple or three gallons of regular (it's fresher) and see if the problem lets up. If so, buy your premium gas somewheres else.

Albertj

I got an ohm meter and i am going too check all the connections and go though the wiring again. and on the gas issue,I have filled it up twice since it started acting like it is. And i have changed the fuel pump and it still done it. Thank you guys for all the helpful info and being patient.

This may sound stupid but i have no clue as to what the heck to put the meter on or what it is suppose to read. And what are ohm's suppose to be at and what do i set it on.

Another thing is the key suppose to be on or off?

99SuperchargedRiv wrote:

This may sound stupid but i have no clue as to what the heck to put the meter on or what it is suppose to read. And what are ohm's suppose to be at and what do i set it on.

Unplug the ICM connector (red arrow)

And go to the F Pin which should correspond to a black wire (cam sensor).

Put a paper clip in the pin and place one of the terminals of the ohm meter on the paper clip.
Next undo the C101 connector.

C101 is encircled above and is the box mounted on the firewall. Undo the nut on the connector and pull the plastic cover off. You will see about 70 different wires. Fortunately the black Cam Sensor wire is on one of the four corner pins. Although I cannot tell you the exact pin, it is neighboring a yellow wire and is pictured below.

Follow the same procedure you did at the ICM and stick a paper clip into the pinhole and place the other terminal on the clip. Place the dial on the Ohmmeter at the Ohm symbol (Ω) at 20K as referenced to the picture below.

If the reading is a number then it should mean there should be continuity (so long as it isnt very high, although I cant exactly say what is too high. Hopefully someone can chime in). But in the case of a broken wire, the display will show infinite or some sort of indicator that the resistance is infinity. At that point you can try to find the point where it is broken (hopefully located somewhere visible as mine was), or you can attempt to splice in a new wire from the ICM to C101. If you get a low resistance reading, there is a chance that the wire is broken somewhere behind the firewall between C101 and the PCM, which you could verify by using the same testing procedure used here by placing a paper clip at the ICM or C101 and the other at the Cam Sensor PCM input (#5 pin)

99SuperchargedRiv wrote:

Another thing is the key suppose to be on or off?

This test does not require the ignition to be on.

Thanks Matt for all the info. the pictures are what really helped. i started doing the process you said and i found the same wire you had broke and it was also the number 3-6 coil. fixed the wire and replaced the coil and now she runs like new. Again thanks to all you guys for everything.

Glad to hear you got it all figured out! Seems like that connector is a weak spot for that wire.

Glad to hear it worked out. Congrats!

Congrat's on the find.
Now that your an expert on wiring issue's, you need to look at the wiring for your rear wheel speed sensor and see if it is a bad wire, bad connector or whether you have to replace the whole sensor and hub assembly.
Your almost there. Pretty soon you will have NO "Service Engine Soon" light on.
Or am I thinking about someone else's problem, Now i'm confused. I thought you had a TCS and ABS light on or something like that.