ABS pump and solenoid pack replacement

I'm not sure I'm following you.
I can see the circuit between #5 and 14 by looking at the diagram on the previous page. But I thought those circuits were checked before buying the new / used unit.
Did you find high resistance on the new EBTCM or what.?
Or is it resistance between the PMV and EBTCM connections.?
Or am I confused.?....................... Yes, I am confused.!!!!
Please explain if possible..
Thanks.

The new pump has a good reading between pins 5 and 14 of 3 or 5 ohms the one fitted to the car at present has a reading of 2.5 meg ohms(almost an open cct) so i must have miss read the one on the car (the duff/broken one).

Oh, OK, now I understand.
I was going by what you had previously stated as being good (3-5 ohm) connections on the old / existing unit.
Glad you found the discrepancy and did not buy an EBTCM for nothing.

nigelf wrote:

The new pump has a good reading between pins 5 and 14 of 3 or 5 ohms the one fitted to the car at present has a reading of 2.5 meg ohms(almost an open cct) so i must have miss read the one on the car (the duff/broken one).

DOH!!!

albertj wrote:

There is a distilled spirit called "Everclear" that would also work, don't get it on your hands it is *very* drying. Perhaps an Everclear analogue is sold at a liquor store near you, it sould be just pure 94% alcohol.

Albertj

I have a half empty bottle of the 180 proof variety, I'd hate to waste it cleaning car parts. lol

BrianEsser wrote:

albertj wrote:

There is a distilled spirit called "Everclear" that would also work, don't get it on your hands it is *very* drying. Perhaps an Everclear analogue is sold at a liquor store near you, it sould be just pure 94% alcohol.

Albertj

I have a half empty bottle of the 180 proof variety, I'd hate to waste it cleaning car parts. lol

That's the "weak" everclear. 196 proof is the straight stuff.

"Dry gas" is a much better idea for cleaning car parts than 180 Everclear - the Everclear would have too much water. Only problem with dry gas is you *do not* want it with *any* additives whatsoever. So funny thing, the cheapest dry gas is usually the best.

Albertj

Actually I just looked, it's 190 proof.

BrianEsser wrote:

Actually I just looked, it's 190 proof.

That's the stuff. I was mistaken about 196, for chemical reasons, the purest alcohol you can distill (conventionally) is ~96.4% alcohol, the rest will be water. So I need to correct myself, 190 is "it" for Everclear - that's 95% alcohol.

By the way, something *close to* dry gas,a s far as cleaning alcohols go, is the 91% rubbing alcohol that pharmacies/many drug stores sell. It will work (as a cleaner for brake system internals) but you have to let it dry longer and on a damp day it will seem like for-flipping-ever. You can hasten drying using an air compressor/"blow gun" or a wetdry vac with nozzle attachment to concentrate the airflow.

Albertj

Well heres the problem

Nigel,
Even though that looks BAD, the other pic that was posted some time ago was even worse.
I guess there is a way for water or moisture to ingress and cause corrosion.
Can you clearly see where the path of water would enter.?
Is at the joint where the electrical connector is.
And do you think there should there be a Rivperformance Recall to disassemble, inspect, clean, re-seal the joint with something and reassemble for all cars that haven't replaced the EBTCM with high miles and/or years.
Or just buy a good used one ahead of time and wait for ours to fail eventually.

I wonder why the wiring diagram shows 8 solenoids yet in the pic there are 10.????

the other 2 solenoids are on pins 1 and 2 and are for LH/RH isolation valves..

if they are duff DTC 44,48 are set

these are closed only on traction control operations

Thanks for the explanation Nigel, I appreciate it.

Do you think opening a good unit up and trying to seal it from moisture or water contamination is a good preventative maintenance idea or not.?

Are you able to see how the water / moisture got into your unit.?

I would use anerobic sealer of some sort. and fill the cavity around each solenoid and the bulkhead connector with dielectric grease to help keep out moisture.

One thing i noticed with the replacement there was some form of rubber or clear silicon sealer around the cable entry point that had deteriated through age or what appeared to be anyway. it now no longer is there and i didnt have any thing to replace it with. the seal still looked intack so have fitted it anyway.

As for taking this apart as preventative maintenance I do think its only for someone who has or is good with wrenches(spanners to europeans) there are a lot of possible "gotchas" and like all PM's the more you do the more you end up replacing. there are a lot of Torq bolts holdin the lid on 3 of which hold the pump to the solenoid pack. That is a "gotchya" im waiting to bite me! Although ive tightend them up sufficiently i hope there is no leak as there are only the small rubber gaskets in the pump face.

i think if you are to change this unit I would consider resealing the solenoids and internal wiring with some sort of spray. the internal wiring is actualy a flexable printed circuit type wire.

The other thing to worry about is probably the bleeding of the system i have to wait till my partner is around for that and should prove to be a fun filled few hours!

Nigel

nigelf wrote:

The other thing to worry about is probably the bleeding of the system i have to wait till my partner is around for that and should prove to be a fun filled few hours!

Just fill the system and crack all the bleeders loose and let it gravity bleed for about an hour. Just make sure the Master Cylinder is full to the top before you start. Makes bleeding easy......

As for preventative maintenance on the pump....don't bother. That's why they don't sell an ABS pump gasket set. Moisture is going to enter the pump no matter how good you seal it. As long as there is an empty space inside of it, humidity will make it's presence known.

Abaddon wrote:

nigelf wrote:

The other thing to worry about is probably the bleeding of the system i have to wait till my partner is around for that and should prove to be a fun filled few hours!

Just fill the system and crack all the bleeders loose and let it gravity bleed for about an hour. Just make sure the Master Cylinder is full to the top before you start. Makes bleeding easy......

As for preventative maintenance on the pump....don't bother. That's why they don't sell an ABS pump gasket set. Moisture is going to enter the pump no matter how good you seal it. As long as there is an empty space inside of it, humidity will make it's presence known.

Actually if you look at write ups, one option is to build and use a "power bleeder" - using a garden sparyer and some odd hardware you can easily make for yourself a one-man power bleeder that will get the fluid thru the ABS et cetera.

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/care-maintenance-f8/write-up-make-a-brake-bleeder-t2481.htm

Albertj

I have a Vacula and absolutely love it.

I took a very quick look at the Vacula brake bleeders by googling the name. They look like good products.
Where did you buy yours from.?
A tool distributor or...???/

be warned of any tool that sucks to bleed the brakes.... it will often suck air through the thread!!!

The one i got from advanced auto is going back tomorrow... its a pile of s**t the resovoir leaks and the air through the thread made it too hard.

Nigel,
For what you are doing, I have found that a lengthy gravity bleed will work the best initially and sometimes be adequate for a complete bleed.
If after an hour or two of gravity bleeding doesn't give you the firm pedal you are looking for then do a two person bleed starting from the bleeder screw furthest away from the master cylinder reservoir and work your way toward the master cylinder.
i.e. LR, RR,RF then LF.
If after all this, the pedal is still soft then a simple, but good quality vacuum bleeder that attaches to the bleeder screws themselves will draw the air and fluid out of the hard to get places.
Remember if you are trying to use a Dot 4 or 5 Synthetic fluid you may have bleed the system then return the next day and bleed again. Something with the synthetics that they have a tendency to produce very small air bubbles that attach themselves to the internal lines and hoses and need time to find there way up to the master cylinder reservoir.
If this is what you are using (Dot4 or 5) synthetic and you can not get a firm pedal after a couple of days due to the lack of proper equipment, then just use DOT 3 and the process should go smoother.

Rickw wrote:

I took a very quick look at the Vacula brake bleeders by googling the name. They look like good products.
Where did you buy yours from.?
A tool distributor or...???/

I bought mine off the Mac Tools truck, no idea what I paid for it, but it's probably paid for itself 10x over since then.

Yes, it will pull air past the threads of the bleeder, but with enough practice you can tell air bubbles from the threads versus air trapped in the system. The speed and ease more than makes up for it.

When I was doing these at the dealer, I started the bleeding at the ABS valve block, then went to the wheels. Worked much better than just wheel bleeding.

buggboy wrote:

When I was doing these at the dealer, I started the bleeding at the ABS valve block, then went to the wheels. Worked much better than just wheel bleeding.

That's cause that's how GM's Global Connect tells ya to do it that way

LOL, we didn't have Global Connect back in the 90's when I was working on these. We had to go to a place called the GM Training Center...and we also had these big clunky things called CPT tapes. (VHS, for those non-dealer types).