95 SC throwing codes - intermittent running problems

Ok thanks for the great advice guys.

Ill do the crank sensor then...

Im going to try to re-route the harness a bit so it doesnt get squeezed where the ICM and water pump are. Hopefully Ill be able to give the new harness a bit of space so it isnt right against the head anymore.

a mechanic is coming out to do the balancer and scrank sensor so Ill have some experienced hands in there too.

thanks

Jeff

OK Im going in... got the sensors (crank & cam), belts, bypass hose, engine harness, harmonic balancer front seal (actually the whole timing case kit) and the Tstat seal (its leaking).

Found that someone has spliced the ICU harness and the wires look pretty bad. I think this harness is a good idea to do.

Im taking lots of pics and will post a write-up to help people that are looking at doing this in the future and to relieve the gurus from explaining it 20 times a month LOL.

Im having a mechanic come out to do the balancer pull/install.

I also found that my SC bypass vacuum lines were pretty much wasted so I replaced that with new vac lines.

Looks like the wire that goes to the crank sensor is going to be a bitch to run... I may have to take off the engine mount and/or AC pump... fun. Im going to try to reroute the line through the AC mount but I dont know if it will make it.

Also bought some extra 3/4" corrugated insulation to help protect the harness where its near the block & head.

should be done tomorrow....pray for me

Wow, dude.....Wow . The Riv is goin under the knife......let us pray

If you or any of your Impossible Missions force are captured or killed, the Secretary will disavow any knowledge of your actions... Good luck, Jim!

GAK!!!!!

I almost have the harness out but there is one plug behind the power steering pump that I cant get!.

It has a single black wire and some sort of bizarre clip that I cant figure out. any ideas?

I got the harmonic balancer bolt out without too much trouble and Im going to grab a puller in the morning to do it myself as the mechanic cant make it till late.

Another issue... I cant find the cam sensor... where is it?

thanks

BTW abaddon that car is gorgeous.

jeffyd123 wrote:

Another issue... I cant find the cam sensor... where is it
thanks

I believe the series 1 & 2 are in the same place, slightly below & to one side of the water pump. It's probably hiding behind the pump pulley...

jeffyd123 wrote:

I almost have the harness out but there is one plug behind the power steering pump that I cant get!.It has a single black wire and some sort of bizarre clip that I cant figure out. any ideas?

Your lookin at the Oil Pressure Sensor/Fuel Pump Switch.

jeffyd123 wrote:

Another issue... I cant find the cam sensor... where is it?

The Cam Sensor is in the same general area as the Crank Sensor, just look "up" and left. It should be a 3 wire harness, and plugs in parallel to the block.....in/around the Timing Cover.

jeffyd123 wrote:

BTW abaddon that car is gorgeous.

Thanks! I take care of her, and she returns the favor

OK thanks eldo & abaddon.

Looks like Im going to have to remove the engine mount to get to these two.

I still cant figure out how to get thatoip pressure clip off.... may have to cut it.

jeff

No, don't cut it. There is either a "push tab" holding it on, or possibly a CPA (Connector Position Assurance) holding it in. Look carefully at it to see if there is some type of "slide" that you have to remove before it will disconnect.....Example: like an Oxygen Sensor plug has that clip you have to pull out before it will unplug. That is a CPA.

k... there seems like there is a clip going around 3 sides of the top of the plug. the entire plugs spins around so its hard to get a hold of it.

I just looked it up at auto zone and I think its the knock sensor. its the only sensor on this harness that has 1 wire. damn thing is really hard to get to without dissasembling the alternator mount and idler pulley mount.

got the balancer off and the cam/crank sensors...not too bad except for me getting the puller set up wrong for the first hour.

thanks

jeff

well great...

just got the harness and the ICM harness is missing and they cut the black wire that leads to the knock sensor.

grrrrrr

I believe you're right. Even thought the oil switch really only needs one wire, they gave it two...

If you saw the knock sensors on the AZ website, then you know that they look like some of the sensors from the 80's, where the end of the unit has an 'umbrella' or 'mushroom' head that the harness connector snaps onto. There should be two raised sections of the harness connector where you squeeze it, so that the clips 90 degrees away spread out and release the mushroom. Hope that makes sense.

YA that makes sense now that I think about it. t have tried squeezing the 2 raised parts of the connector (at the base of the plastic connector) but either I couldnt squeeze it hard enough while pulling on it or that isnt what releases it.

I was going to look at the harness I bought to get an idea of how it comes off but since they cut the wire Im still in the dark.

Ill drag my ass back under there and try it again.

Im really pissed they didnt include the ICM harness for $150 bucks thought they'd include it.

thanks eldo

Does the '95 have a front knock sensor? It might be easier to see & play with that one to figure out the connector...

I dont beleive so. I have all of the connectors off except for this one.

Eldo wrote:

Does the '95 have a front knock sensor? It might be easier to see & play with that one to figure out the connector...

One sensor per 95 sounds correct, I don't know why, but I remember reading that there is only one in the rear.

OK.. so I rebuilt my ICM harness (extended it a few inches so it was easier to install and stayed away from the head),put everything back together and the car wouldnt start.

I took the ICM harness out (very easy now!) tested it for correct continuity, it was perfect. Put it back in the car... it starts right up (a bit of sputtering), It sort of surprised me so I shut it down within 2 seconds. try to start it again and it just cranks and cranks without catching at all.

I disconnected the battery

Im wondering... do I have to do a case learn? I did move the crank as much as half a turn when getting the balancer off.

I found multiple bare wires inside the ICU harness and the car ran on Friday when I pulled it in the garage.

I got lots of pictures for everyone... Making the new harness was actually very easy .. took about 1 hour and some crimp connectors and 40 feet of 18 gauge wire.

thanks

Well I let it sit for about 30 minutes and it started right up and seems to run good now... no CEL and idle is fairly smooth.

Got to secure the new ICM harness so it doesnt rub on the passenger axle, put the fender well skirt and tire back on and take her for a spinsky

Ill report back.

thanks a lot for the help everyone...I really appreciate it.


BTW... I work on computers and if I can ever be of help let me know.

Jeff

OK took it for a drive... started right up but threw a CEL at me.

drove well but seemed to have a slight miss.

gonna grab the code and see what else she wants.

WEll Heck...

Got in the car this morning and it wouldnt start. It stumbled then conked out and wouldnt fire up.

Any ideas?

thanks

Is the SECURITY lamp on? Does it ding after a few tries?

no... just the CEL is on.

BTW, If i disconnect the battery for an hour or so it starts right up

hooked the battery up and it wouldnt start...just cranks and cranks.

one thing that happens when i turn on the key is the traction control motor activates too. it runs for a couple of seconds and then stops and then runs for 2 or 3 seconds again.

it seems that if i unhook the battery for an hour or so it starts... if i unhook it for 5 hours or more it wont start.

I pulled one of the plug wires and im not getting any spark

Im thinking i damaged the PCM somehow...

jeffyd123 wrote:

hooked the battery up and it wouldnt start...just cranks and cranks.

one thing that happens when i turn on the key is the traction control motor activates too. it runs for a couple of seconds and then stops and then runs for 2 or 3 seconds again.

it seems that if i unhook the battery for an hour or so it starts... if i unhook it for 5 hours or more it wont start.

I pulled one of the plug wires and im not getting any spark

Im thinking i damaged the PCM somehow...

Is that sound the trac control motor for sure, or is it really the fuel pump? Maybe your fuel pump is quitting, if it runs/stops/runs. It is only supposed to run for a bit then stop each time you key on from 'off',' twiddling the key on/off/on/off slowly is about the only way to flood the engine...

Albertj

hey albert...

Im sorry, I was so pissed i didnt explain it properly

after the battery has been disconnected, i hook it up and turn the key on, after about 4 seconds, the traction motor starts cycling. it goes on and off 2 or 3 times.

I tried unhooking the battery again and it wont start.... really pissing me off. no matter how bad the car ran it has always started right up.

thanks

Jeff