Need help asap

Try a rebuild kit off Ebay. Much much cheaper and takes just a few more minutes than swapping out old with new. Since you're not on a time crunch, this would be the way to go. Either way, it's an easy job. Good luck.

Bryan,
You may have read everything on this site regarding Fuel Pump replacement, I don't know.
But in some of those write ups there is an explanation of how to replace just the fuel pump from the whole canister and sending unit as Playa (Mark) has just mentioned.
Those replacement "pumps only" are available on Ebay for a lot less money and just require some mechanical know how to replace them.
It's another way to save money. Also, if you have been having difficulty with your gas gauge reading correctly there's an easy trick to correct that, also written in the pages of Fuel Pump replacement info.
Again, good luck with and don't hesitate to post on here if you are having any problems when it comes time to do the job or if you just have questions in general.
No question is too dumb and most of us have already made the mistakes for you, so take advantage of the knowledge and information documented here.

I dont think i have a problem with the gas gauge reading correctly. I know the tapping is what made it fire up, but having your tank topped off drastically reduces the strain on the fuel pump, which is what im doing now. I havent removed the carpet yet, im planning on doing that tomorrow or sunday, and I think im just going to replace the whole assembly just to be safe. I found a brand new AC delco assembly on Ebay for just under $200. If it is as easy to change as what I have heard than i will just tackle the job myself, because i absolutely dont have the money to pay for labor at a shop, and with my luck they would just drop the tank anyway, and just rape me with labor costs.

on another note, is there anyway to disable the air ride pump? Is there a fuse i can pull out or anyway to disable it?

SCbuick010 wrote:

on another note, is there anyway to disable the air ride pump? Is there a fuse i can pull out or anyway to disable it?

Yes, there is a relay in the left rear fuse block, and a fuse in the right rear fuse block.

Hey does anybody know the part number for the lock ring for the fuel pump assembly? I need to know where to get one and a part number would help.

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/series-ii-engine-transmission-f4/ring-for-fuel-pump-t4542.htm?highlight=lock+ring

Don't forget a new O-ring while you're at it...

SCbuick010 wrote:

Hey does anybody know the part number for the lock ring for the fuel pump assembly? I need to know where to get one and a part number would help.

All those numbers are in the Fuel Pump write up's.

I don't write anything down anymore because it's all in here.
Or you can go to the parts store or the dealer and buy one for the year of the car, even though I think all of them are the same.
Make sure the Pump Assembly you buy comes with the O-Ring as Eldo has said or buy that also.

DUH, I just noticed that ELDO was nice enough to find you the link to one of the write ups that has part numbers in it.

In fact, when I did a quick search for "lock ring" to find the thread I linked to above, the post with the part numbers was by Rickw...

Alright i have another question. I disconnected both of the fuel line that were connected to the fuel pump, and the one closest to the rear of the car started gushing gas. Is this just because of the remaining pressure in the line? Is there a way to avoid this? I plugged the lines back in for the time being. Why would there still be that much fuel in the line even when the car had been off for half an hour? Is the fuel line closest to the rear of the car the feed line? or return line?

Bryan...just did a fuel sending unit replacement last weekend (for the first time) on my 97 Riv and can relate to all your questions. May I offer this suggestion? Watch a 3-part video on YouTube by a gentleman named Hans. I found it to be extremely helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7cY_IPCVfI

He describes how to release the fuel pressure by removing the Fuel Pump Relay under the rear seat (his vehicle is a Bonneville, but it tracks very closely to the Riv procedure) and start the engine a few times, and/or by using the Fuel Pressure Release valve in the engine compartment.

As most have said, the most difficult part is removing the lock ring. I found one small trick to helpful: after loosening the ring enough (with a large screwdriver--brass tool recommended for spark reasons--and hammer method) to see it move counter-clockwise about 1/4", I took a small flat-tip screwdriver (taped with duct tape on the tip as I was paranoid about causing a spark), and inserted the screwdriver tip in-between the now available 1/4" small slots of the lock ring and the tank tabs. Then I gently moved the screwdriver back-and-forth in these slots at each of the ring/tank tabs until the ring finally moved freely and I could rotate it completely loose. Of course, this was after a day or so of soaking the ring in the PB Blaster solvent.

Hope this helps!

If you have access to a really big pair of ChannelLocks, you can also span a couple of opposite ears and then use a large screwdriver or prybar to rotate everything... that's how I did mine.

Alright so my car officially quit running about 5 days ago, and i did a lot of research. After researching for awhile i decided to go with a Carter fuel pump. I orded that and the lock ring from rockauto. After a lot of picking through rust and destroying the existing lock ring, i got the fuel pump out. While waiting for the fuel pump and lock ring to show up, i decided to put in a new fuel filter while i was at it. The fuel filter was SHOT! the remaining gas in the filter wouldnt pour out, it came out in a very slow drip.I compared the existing fuel filter to the new one by blowing through them. I blew through the old one, and almost died lol, no air got through what so ever. With the new filter, i could blow through like there wasnt anything there. I went with an acdelco filter. I got the parts and installed everything. My car fired up with no hesitation. I was so relieved. I took it out for a casual drive, then parked and checked for leaks. There wasnt any, so i continued on. I began to drive my car a little more aggressively. I was getting on the interstate in first gear, and i punched it from a 30mph roll, and i heard the tires chirp. My car would not do this before i replaced everything. Im incredibly happy. My rivi is running better than it was the day i bought it.

It's amazing what a lil extra fuel will do

Glad to hear it's all good now.

awesome, congrats!!

I'm a little embarrassed that none of us caught it, but your "light tapping" kind of threw us off...
I've said it before and I'll say it again, always start with the simple, cheap, stupid stuff.

yep exactly. that "light tapping" allowed me to drive my car for a few more days while i got the money for parts. Simple stuff like that will get you a long way.

Glad to hear your good news! You are now an "official" Riv fuel system expert and others will benefit from your experience as well.

SCbuick010 wrote:

yep exactly. that "light tapping" allowed me to drive my car for a few more days while i got the money for parts. Simple stuff like that will get you a long way.

Actually, I meant that the tapping under the pump lead us away from the simple, cheap filter... which is the first thing we should have suggested.