1995 Buick Riviera non turbo

I have a 1995 Buick Riviera non-turbo - It runs idle fine - but when I push the gas it acts like it not getting enough - I have replaced the fuel pump, filter & throttle position sensor and it still comes and goes like it is missing - Does anyone have a clue what is wrong with it?

Check the fuel injectors.

Is your check engine light on?

Have you replaced the air filter, plugs and wires?

tkt1990,

I have the same model Riv as you do. I bought this ride from a used car dealership and have been dealing with fixing and solving the factory errors and bugs as well as maintaining and restoring the normal wear and tear of this 17 year old car. Here are some of my suggestions; as I had to deal with a similar problem that you are having.

1. I completely agree with flyineagle96. When I first purchased the vehicle, the fuel injector O-rings were disintegrated and the injectors were clogged. This was most likely from the car either sitting for quite a few seasons or poor maintenance from the previous owner. Either way, they had to be replace, not only to keep the engine strong, but to help solve a piece of the puzzle I was having with poor acceleration.

2. Fuel pump & pressure level. Since I've had the car, I've replaced the fuel pump 5 times. Not for any other reason other than other things had to be replaced/fixed as well to make the fuel pump not work as hard as it was with everything else the way was (mainly the electrical - such as coilpack, ignition, spark plugs, ECU, etc). i also had found there was a crank in my gas tank. Translation, everytime it rained or there was moisture in the air (most mornings), water was getting in may gas & vacuum lines, which was bad news. One symptom of this was blue or white some coming from the exhaust/tail pipe(s). A GM technician told me that "anytime you touch/remove a fuel pump, on any car, it will eventually go bad really soon (within 4 months) no matter how old or new it is.

3. Check for vacuum leaks - I'm sure you can find many ways of doing this online, if not directly on this forum.

- On a side note, "How many miles are on your vehicle?" If over 50k, I suggest you replace the intake manifold & gasket(s) immediately (if not, as soon as possible). Whether it's with another GM plastic aftermarket or general replacement assy, or the recall/NASCAR die-cast aluminum version, they will go bad - and will ruin your day when it explodes on you!

If you STILL have the same problem after trying to address the same issue your having, whether it involves you investing or hill-bill-ly-ing whatever your wallet can afford, please let me/ us (AKA, RivPerformance members) know - you must understand, the more information we have from you on the situation, the better the chance we can be of more help to you on diagnose a solution.

Best of Luck - and keep us posted

BLKOUT wrote:

tkt1990,

I have the same model Riv as you do. I bought this ride from a used car dealership and have been dealing with fixing and solving the factory errors and bugs as well as maintaining and restoring the normal wear and tear of this 17 year old car. Here are some of my suggestions; as I had to deal with a similar problem that you are having.

1. I completely agree with flyineagle96. When I first purchased the vehicle, the fuel injector O-rings were disintegrated and the injectors were clogged. This was most likely from the car either sitting for quite a few seasons or poor maintenance from the previous owner. Either way, they had to be replace, not only to keep the engine strong, but to help solve a piece of the puzzle I was having with poor acceleration.

2. Fuel pump & pressure level. Since I've had the car, I've replaced the fuel pump 5 times. Not for any other reason other than other things had to be replaced/fixed as well to make the fuel pump not work as hard as it was with everything else the way was (mainly the electrical - such as coilpack, ignition, spark plugs, ECU, etc). i also had found there was a crank in my gas tank. Translation, everytime it rained or there was moisture in the air (most mornings), water was getting in may gas & vacuum lines, which was bad news. One symptom of this was blue or white some coming from the exhaust/tail pipe(s). A GM technician told me that "anytime you touch/remove a fuel pump, on any car, it will eventually go bad really soon (within 4 months) no matter how old or new it is.

3. Check for vacuum leaks - I'm sure you can find many ways of doing this online, if not directly on this forum.

- On a side note, "How many miles are on your vehicle?" If over 50k, I suggest you replace the intake manifold & gasket(s) immediately (if not, as soon as possible). Whether it's with another GM plastic aftermarket or general replacement assy, or the recall/NASCAR die-cast aluminum version, they will go bad - and will ruin your day when it explodes on you!

If you STILL have the same problem after trying to address the same issue your having, whether it involves you investing or hill-bill-ly-ing whatever your wallet can afford, please let me/ us (AKA, RivPerformance members) know - you must understand, the more information we have from you on the situation, the better the chance we can be of more help to you on diagnose a solution.

Best of Luck - and keep us posted

Guys (BLKOUT and tkt) On the fuel pump - the GM technician was semi-correct. If you get a decent fuel pump in the first place (Carter, Bosch, or a *later* OEM from a GM dealer) **and** you fix the root cause of the fuel pump failure then you won't have to replace it repeatedly. If you don't fix the root cause of hte failure you're hosed. It can be really difficult to find that root cause. Also, I was quietly told (at one GM dealer who shall stay un-named) that there was a run of not-so-good OE pumps--to the point where they did not want to install them. IF nothing else is wrong and IF you don't get a dirt-rip fuel pump you'll be fine. A very good way to go is to replace just the electric motor on your OE fuel pump, rockauto.com and ACDelco parts dealers sell a kit for that, for short money (less than $75). You can also replace the fuel level sender at the same time if yours isn't accurate.

Also it may help your troubleshooting to wash/steam clean the engine, to make oil/antifreeze leaks conspicuous. Cover the electricals with aluminum foil, then use an engine cleaner such as GUNK (petrol based) or WalMart (surfactant) per label directions, or have it steam cleaned (not so many folks do this anymore).