Nightmare Transmission Rebuild

As of now the CC function is the only thing that is out/intermittent. The TCC seems to be engaging all the time now (1800 RMP @ 65 mpg). I can actually feel it and see it drop into overdrive. This is good. However, I still want my CC back. I haven't done enough driving to truly know if my fuel economy is back to normal.

What should I be getting highway? 25ish right?

Does anyone know anything about what else I should check to diagnose this CC given my symptoms above?

Should be at about 30 MPG hwy at 65 MPH.

werdstrave wrote:

As of now the CC function is the only thing that is out/intermittent. The TCC seems to be engaging all the time now (1800 RMP @ 65 mpg). I can actually feel it and see it drop into overdrive. This is good. However, I still want my CC back. I haven't done enough driving to truly know if my fuel economy is back to normal.

What should I be getting highway? 25ish right?

Does anyone know anything about what else I should check to diagnose this CC given my symptoms above?

MPG: 25 - 30 MPG depending on things.

- have to use premium fuel of you have SC engine
- the SC engines were rated 27 MPG - at the time that meant 27 MPG at 55 MPH
- the NA engines will pretty easily get 30 MPG at 55 MPH
- you can boost your mileage if you use synthetic oil but it may not be worth the $$ just for that. If you change oil yourself, however. it's a nobrainer.
- there is "sample variation" in these cars and apparently identical cars will vary in MPG by several MPG. And there are variables. The more stuff you have in your car (crap in the trunk, your own weight) the lower your MPG will be on average.

The CC should work without TCC (it just controls throttle, not caring about the transmission. I forget if the '95 has separate shift tables for CC, the trans is not all computer controlled in '95??? not sure).

The TCC will not work if the brake switches are not adjusted properly. The switches should be adjustable - IIRC there are threads on the switch and release and you can use the nuts/brackets to move the switch closer/further from the pedal. I'm guessing there is a page in the factory service manual about installing and adjusting these switches you need to reference at this point.

Derek, I can't find any threads about the brake switches and nothing about an adjustment in the service manual. Do you remember where you saw this? I'm pretty sure there is something funky going on with this circuit since after tinkering with the switches I get intermittent CC and intermittent TCC lock-up.

I will look in my '98 service manual when I have a chance. It's riding around in the Riv, which my brother has, and I only see it occasionally.

I haven't looked at one on this car, but on older cars the switch was threaded into a bracket behind the brake pedal, with a lock nut on the front of the switch. The bracket may have been disturbed, or the pedal stop may be shifted (or adjustable). It should have multiple connectors on it - one for the lights, one for the PCM, unless the PCM handles the lights as well. But I think the lights have their own section of the switch.

It's also possible if the master cylinder/booster were replaced that the pedal doesn't return to exactly the same spot anymore.

I would just crawl under the dash, remove the panel and start looking around with a flashlight! It's worth a shot.

I will look in my service manual next time I see it, if somebody else can look it up sooner please do.

I was messing around one night going through the electronic connections for the CC. I Unplugged the harness for the CC on top of the trans, now it works all the time. I guess the guys who did my trans didn't put it in tight enough.

Anyways, for those who posted to this and tried to help me out, I was able to get a new CV and seal onto the passenger side of the car. There have been no leaks ever since. I did notice quite a bit of marring on the seal surface when removing the old one though from the Trans rebuilders. Oh and the AZ axle was totally a bad fit, when I put Morad's OEM in there it sat perfectly.

Now, I've been trying to pull the driver's side CV (Chineese reman) out which simply will not budge. I've tried everything, heat, pry bars, screw driver's. I even hooked up a winch to my dad's car to try and pull it out. No deal. Unless anyone has any other suggestions on how to get this out, I think I'll be bringing it down to the shop. This really sucks and has been extremely frustrating.

...changing out the bearing hub now.

I had trouble getting the drivers side axle out too. But a pry bar did work. If you are really putting that much force on it something is wrong. I pried, turned the axle, then pried again. I couldn't fit my good pry bar in the gap at first, had to use big flat screwdrivers, but once it popped free it just goes after that. A slide hammer wouldn't do you any good as there is nothing solid to attach to. Keep prying!!! (But don't crack the transmission case!)

.....At the dealership now. There is a hairline crack in the transmission case where a little bit of fluid is seeping out. Anyone have experience with changing this plate out?

tough one.I believe the tranny would have to be removed to access that one with a welder if you go that route.it has been done.otherwise ya have to finde a junked case and replase it.ugh

Did a quick search on here and didn't see anything but does anyone know if there is a write up on how to replace this side cover anywhere?

wait a min..what "case" "plate" are you talking about? Acase is the whole shell...A plate??

Something I found from an impala forum on this:

http://www.impalaforums.com/diy-do-it-yourself-how-to/242595-trans-side-cover-removal.html

And an aluminum cover off ebay:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/170655068030?var=lv
I haven't gone under the car to really assess what needs to be done yet for this job but is there any chance I can do this without dropping the subframe?

I also don't have an engine hoist....is it possible to do this job without one?

I went into the manual and its name is the "side cover" or case side cover. See the ebay link above. It's the one on the driver's side that you pry against to pop out the axle. Apparently I wailed on it way too much and it has a hairline crack now.

honestly though drew,looking at my ride, I would say that replacing that cover without having to drop the engine or remove the tranny is really possible.once you get everything out of the way and have a clear shot at the case and supporting the engine,you could lift the cover out.if the innards are protruding past the point where you can lift the cover out,then you will have to loosen all the motor mounts,loosen the cradle and tilt the engine / tranny upwards and this might give you enough room to wiggle it out.it dont look easy.If it has to be done youll find a way.Where is the crack located on the cover? could a welder get in there without disturbing the cover and tig the crack?

I have to get under there and take a look to see what is involved. I would say a welder could get in there to tig. That could be an option if the cover replacement doesn't sound feasible. The crack is directly under the axle seal on the area where I've wedged a screw driver/pry bar to get the axle out. After talking to a tech about this the proper tool to be used to get the axle out is a lady slipper pry bar. Wish I had known that before. I saw the tool too, it would do the job 10x better than the screw driver method.

Options for this job:
1. Replace cover myself after seeing what's involved
2. Pay shop to replace cover
3. Pay welder to weld crack
4. See if JB weld or similar works (shop already put a sealant on there) Will check tomorrow to see if it's been holding up

I still think the cover would have to be removed to weld it.the tranny fluid would contaminate the weld big time.
If you use some JB weld type stuff,you will have to clean and sand the shit out of the area before applying the stuff.this might mean draining the fluid.you cant have fluid contaminating the bond. soap and water,acetone,sand,goop.it might work.
take a pic of the crack.........

taking a closer look at the tranny I see that you have to tilt the engine down after loosening all the motor mounts.It might be possible to get it out.

I'd have to get under the car and look around. Do you know why I'd have to tilt the engine down? I'm really hoping I can do this without an engine hoist because I don't have one. I'm doubting it though.

You have to loosen all the cradle bolts without removing them so as to hold the cradle in the car.I would remove only the driver side cradle bolts leaving the passenger bolts loose but conected. and then try and finagle the cover out.you might have to tilt the engine this way and that with a jack to do it.This is all a guess on my part.If I had to do it, this is how I would at least start.if youre not handy dont try it.otherwise its a big job.You dont ultimately need a hoist but it would certainly help.

Just a write up on removing the cradle so I have it in this thread: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t8662p45-write-up-cradle-mount-insulators-bushings?highlight=craddle+mount