FAQ: Installing Front Speakers

Front passenger speaker on my car is starting to rattle. Is it possible to buy the stock speakers? Don't want to spend much and I don't really want to upgrade it at all, just need to get rid of the rattling speaker. I tried looking for component speakers but all I can really find are sets that come with separate tweeters. Can I just use the 5.25 out of the set and use my stock tweeters that are in the doors already?

stydel311 wrote:

Can I just use the 5.25 out of the set and use my stock tweeters that are in the doors already?

Wired correctly, yes you can. However, it won't sound right. The factory speakers are component speakers and are a matching pair. The overall resistance of an aftermarket component will not be the same. The end result is a wattage difference which changes the sound output.

Can it be done? Yeah. You're better off buying a decent set of 3-way coaxials that don't need a ton of wattage and just replace the fronts completely.

Abaddon wrote:

stydel311 wrote:

Can I just use the 5.25 out of the set and use my stock tweeters that are in the doors already?

Wired correctly, yes you can. However, it won't sound right. The factory speakers are component speakers and are a matching pair. The overall resistance of an aftermarket component will not be the same. The end result is a wattage difference which changes the sound output.

Can it be done? Yeah. You're better off buying a decent set of 3-way coaxials that don't need a ton of wattage and just replace the fronts completely.

3-way coaxials and then leaving the factory tweeter unhooked right?

I installed the Infinity 5 1/4" coaxials and yes, left the factory tweeter disconnected.
I look forward to adding an aftermarket head unit at some point to gain some power.
The factory unit doesn't seem to drive the new speakers hard enough for their best sound.

Jbird

jbird wrote:

I installed the Infinity 5 1/4" coaxials and yes, left the factory tweeter disconnected.
I look forward to adding an aftermarket head unit at some point to gain some power.
The factory unit doesn't seem to drive the new speakers hard enough for their best sound.

This.

Yes, leave it unhooked. New speakers will not be as loud with the factory radio, no. I ended up doing Alpine all the way around. The factory speakers are "matched" to the radio.....designed as a system. Unless you change the radio as well, aftermarket speakers won't sound right hooked up directly. If you run an amplifier, well that changes things a bit

Abaddon wrote:

jbird wrote:

I installed the Infinity 5 1/4" coaxials and yes, left the factory tweeter disconnected.
I look forward to adding an aftermarket head unit at some point to gain some power.
The factory unit doesn't seem to drive the new speakers hard enough for their best sound.

This.

Yes, leave it unhooked. New speakers will not be as loud with the factory radio, no. I ended up doing Alpine all the way around. The factory speakers are "matched" to the radio.....designed as a system. Unless you change the radio as well, aftermarket speakers won't sound right hooked up directly. If you run an amplifier, well that changes things a bit

I'll have to do some looking then. I don't plan on putting an aftermarket head unit in unless it's a Sony XAV unit since they look the most inconspicuous out of any of the head units I've looked at, but they're quite expensive so probably not happening. Pretty much any of the non-touch screen units I've seen are a no go for me.

Some have added amps to the factory unit but I would like to gain bluetooth/hands free phone.
Deepfrozen in the "interior work" thread shows his dash with a Pioneer unit that looks pretty nice & its reasonably priced. If I had my way it would have a black volume knob though.
Jbird

jbird wrote:

I installed the Infinity 5 1/4" coaxials and yes, left the factory tweeter disconnected.
I look forward to adding an aftermarket head unit at some point to gain some power.
The factory unit doesn't seem to drive the new speakers hard enough for their best sound.

Jbird

Yessir ^^^,
Replaced my fronts with these Infinity Reference 5032cf 5.25-Inch, 135-Watt High Performance Two-Way Loudspeaker. Got a pair off Amazon Marketplace for $35. Highly efficent with tweeter level adjustment and swivel positioning. The factory Monsoon head unit I finally put in drives them, and the matching rear 6X9 Infinity's to a very satisflying level. The adjustable unipivot tweeters totally address the factory tweeter disconnect IMHO.

High Chaparral wrote:

jbird wrote:

I installed the Infinity 5 1/4" coaxials and yes, left the factory tweeter disconnected.
I look forward to adding an aftermarket head unit at some point to gain some power.
The factory unit doesn't seem to drive the new speakers hard enough for their best sound.

Jbird

Yessir ^^^,
Replaced my fronts with these Infinity Reference 5032cf 5.25-Inch, 135-Watt High Performance Two-Way Loudspeaker. Got a pair off Amazon Marketplace for $35. Highly efficent with tweeter level adjustment and swivel positioning. The factory Monsoon head unit I finally put in drives them, and the matching rear 6X9 Infinity's to a very satisflying level. The adjustable unipivot tweeters totally address the factory tweeter disconnect IMHO.

I have a head unit under the Xmas tree.
I would like to upgrade the rear speakers soon and possibly a Bazooka or something to add some Bass at some point.
Was not aware the Monsoon was compatible, plug & play?

Did the switch awhile back, if I remember correctly it was a specific Monsoon that was compatible.
Found one on Ebay from a low mileage donor car for $50, I'll have to see if I can find it on my past purchases. Unit was plug & play, perfect fit, extra power, and steering wheel controls were happy with it.

I have already replaced the factory unit for another one that does not have a cassette player.
The original unit kept flipping "source" to cassette even without a cassette installed.
I would have upgraded to the Monsoon had I known there was one that worked.
I don't think I was able to verify that at the time so I didn't chance it.

High Chaparral wrote:

Did the switch awhile back, if I remember correctly it was a specific Monsoon that was compatible.
Found one on Ebay from a low mileage donor car for $50, I'll have to see if I can find it on my past purchases. Unit was plug & play, perfect fit, extra power, and steering wheel controls were happy with it.

...I am pretty sure the compatible Monsoon would have been out of the same years' (1995-9) Buick Regal.

And there were a *lot* of them.

If you have time on your hands at the pick-n-pull you can pull the Monsoon components and associated wiring also. IF NOT, the fun thing is the Monsoon radio works just fine without those components and is wired to plug right in including the steering wheel controls.

For you electronics hackers, you can replace the finals in the factory radio to get more power, just watch the cooling (don't go too far). You will have to open your radio and figure it out, though -- I thought about doing this but the sound in my Riv improved so much with better speakers that I never bothered with more. For you hardcore hardware hackers, here's a site you can use: https://www.parts-express.com/cat/audio-amplifier-boards-modules/3464

I had a chat with a tech at Crutchfield who recommended a Kenwood digital head unit with component speakers, a steering wheel control adapter, and the myriad fitting wiring and bits including a dash plate that included a cubby that could be modified to mount a wireless phone charger (for Samsung and iPhone). Idea is you'd pair your phone's bluetooth to the radio then just slide it into the cubby to ride and charge. Radio would stream your music or make your phone calls hands free. Wireless phone charger not included but easily available on eBay or Amazon -- or just wire a car cord to the Accessory circuit and put the wire thru the wall of the cubby during installation. The radio has a back USB you could connect that to, and a cord might cost a dollar or so.

113KMX503 Kenwood Excelon KMM-X503 Digital Media Receiver
142GM1583B Scosche GM1583B GM kit 1990-up, select models, "E-mount"
120702001 Metra 70-2001 Wire Harness for GM 95-05, 32-pin
12040GM10 GM Antenna Adapter Motorola M to OEM antenna F
109CL5000C JBL Club 5000C 5-1/4" Component System
109CL9630 JBL Club 9630 6"x 9" 3-way Speakers
120BKSTRAP Backstrap Universal

Vehicle(s) info: 98 BUIC RIVIERA (Install # 2293)

And so it goes...

Albertj

Just replace the front 5.25" stock speakers with a 2-way coaxial replacement from a reputable brand like Sony, Rockford, JL Audio, etc. Don't waste your time replacing with OEM speakers. Concert II systems didn't sound very good even when new, and poor speakers were a big part of it.

Easiest way to add power is a mini external 12V amplifier like the ones sold for motorcycles. A few bucks will get you plenty of power compared to stock. If you keep the stock head (which DOES put out a clean signal) and don't opt for an external amp, choose a low-priced coaxial speaker set with a high sensitivity spec. This is the SPL @1W/meter number. Wattage isn't a consideration since the stock head puts out very little power.

If you get the amp, consider spending $50-100/pair on some higher-power drivers. As the Riv's front drivers are mounted to the plastic door card, add some sound deadener behind the door card and butyl rubber rope behind the plastic grill to reduce vibrations with higher-power set-ups.