Write-Up: Front/Rear (Addco) Stabilizer/Sway Bar Installation

John at addco paid UPS' bogus brokerage fee and I now have the parts to install the swaybars. I'm very glad he took care of that.

In the pacakage I got, I have 2 pairs (4) rear bushings, 2 front bushings, 2 front endlinks, 2 front brackets and 2 front mounting plates. I'll let you know how it works out. The rear rubber bushings are noticeably firmer than the stockers.

jax95riv wrote:

Quote :

Jack, if you do ever decide to order these bars,
check with me first... if I still haven't installed them, I may just be
willing to let them go, and give a discount off new price.

If that's directed at me Dave, I'll take them. Just let me know if/when you decide to part with them. Thanks.

I'm thinking on this real hard... I already know that my driving style and habits don't really justify doing the Addco bars. I go fast (sort of) in the quarter, not on the street. I'll decide soon. I may need to see how Jason does with the new parts first though.

Still no rear bushings for me. Jason, did you get front bushings that will actually work?

I think they will. They came with a mounting plate that will cover the recess in the subframe. Also, they have their opening on the side, not on a corner like the 1st ones I got.. They look exactly like the energy suspension bushings I bought, only they aren't greaseable.

I installed the front and rear addco swaybars today after work. I am a member of the auto club at the base, so I have access to a lift and most available tools.

It took me exactly 4 hours to do the front and rear. The rear is very straightforward: simple R&R.
The front is trickier. The shop manual calls for seperating a tierod and disconnecting the downpipe. WIth a stock exhaust, I am fairly certain you aren't getting the bar out of there without disconnecting the downpipe. I know I couldn't, but feel free to try if you think you are spectacular. I didn't feel like messing with the exhaust because of the rust and hassle.

To get the old front swaybar out I seperated one tierod and dropped the rear of the subframe by detatching the 4 bolts and supporting everything with a transmission jack. It took some persuading, but if finally pulled out. It really isn't all that difficult. I recommend you do this if you change your bar yourself. Alternately, you could change it at the same time as a 3" downpipe. That would be ideal.

Since I ended up with 2 pairs of endlinks, I replaced the rear ones too while I was at it. The stock lower bushings on the rear endlinks were in pitiful shape. The rear GM OEM orange bushings are noticeably firmer than the stock 17mm ones. They have the exact outer shape, so they fit perfectly in the clamps. For the front, I used energy suspension greasable poly bushings instead of the supplied addco bushings and brackets (Truth be told I wasn't sure I was going to get them). Honestly, I think they are exactly the same as the new ones addco sent me, except for the zerk fitting, which is to cut down on squeaking. I also used the mounting plates addco sent me. Using the supplied addco bushings, clamps and mounting plates will work fine too, just make sure to grease the bushings before installing them.

I'll get a writeup done when I get a chance, but for now I have no pics. I lent my camera to my GF for her trip to Europe.

The swaybars make a very noticeable difference. It eliminates alot of wallowing and body roll yet the soft springs still offer a great ride for a cruiser (admittedly, stiffer springs would be nice). I can take curves at much higher speeds than before and the car stays nice and flat. I think the swaybars are the correct size and very well proportionned. The stock rear bar looks like a coat hanger next to the new one, and the front bar is massive.

All in all, a great mod. It is everything I expected. Next up: DHP tuner

jax95riv wrote:

Quote :

Jack, if you do ever decide to order these bars,
check with me first... if I still haven't installed them, I may just be
willing to let them go, and give a discount off new price.

If that's directed at me Dave, I'll take them. Just let me know if/when you decide to part with them. Thanks.

Well Jack, I've decided to part with the Addco bars. Decided I don't really need them for my driving, and I can't even find time to put in a damn 180 t-stat, much less these bars. I paid $250 delivered to my door, and I'll let them go for $200 delivered to your door, if you are still interested. PM me or email, whatever works, or reply here and we'll figure out details. Email is dave.gramlow@horvick.com

good deal. The bars will make your riv feel like a different car

Nice to hear. Do you have a part # for the rear bushings? I still haven't got mine, and don't think I will, so I'm going to just buy a pair and get this 5-month-old bar installed.

1998 Riv wrote:

jax95riv wrote:

Quote :

Jack, if you do ever decide to order these bars,
check with me first... if I still haven't installed them, I may just be
willing to let them go, and give a discount off new price.

If that's directed at me Dave, I'll take them. Just let me know if/when you decide to part with them. Thanks.

Well Jack, I've decided to part with the Addco bars. Decided I don't really need them for my driving, and I can't even find time to put in a damn 180 t-stat, much less these bars. I paid $250 delivered to my door, and I'll let them go for $200 delivered to your door, if you are still interested. PM me or email, whatever works, or reply here and we'll figure out details. Email is dave.gramlow@horvick.com

If I only had $200

1998 Riv wrote:

jax95riv wrote:

Quote :

Jack, if you do ever decide to order these bars,
check with me first... if I still haven't installed them, I may just be
willing to let them go, and give a discount off new price.

If that's directed at me Dave, I'll take them. Just let me know if/when you decide to part with them. Thanks.

Well Jack, I've decided to part with the Addco bars. Decided I don't really need them for my driving, and I can't even find time to put in a damn 180 t-stat, much less these bars. I paid $250 delivered to my door, and I'll let them go for $200 delivered to your door, if you are still interested. PM me or email, whatever works, or reply here and we'll figure out details. Email is dave.gramlow@horvick.com

Email sent. Thanks Dave! Sold.

you sould call addco to get what you are owed. They also are supposed to send you 2 front clamps and mounting plates. These will work better than the undersized, soft front stock bushings you have. Give John a call at 1-800-338-7015. He knows the pn of the rear bushing, but might have forgotten about you.

rear GM bushing p/n 25666235

Thanks, I'll have to give them a call.

AA wrote:

Nice to hear. Do you have a part # for the rear bushings? I still haven't got mine, and don't think I will, so I'm going to just buy a pair and get this 5-month-old bar installed.

Aaron, I'm pretty sure I have 2 pairs of the rear bushings from Addco. I'd be happy to send you one set, just have to make sure I don't short Jack on them when I send him my bars. PM me your mailing address, and I'll send them out early in the week.

Jason wrote:

you sould call addco to get what you are owed. They also are supposed to send you 2 front clamps and mounting plates. These will work better than the undersized, soft front stock bushings you have. Give John a call at 1-800-338-7015. He knows the pn of the rear bushing, but might have forgotten about you.

rear GM bushing p/n 25666235

Jason, did you post earlier that Addco would ship all the missing front parts to the rest of us, once you OK'd that it would work? Did you give them any feedback yet?

Look for a PM, Dave. I know Addco should send me what I've paid for, but if Jack isn't interested, I'd appreciate it if you sent yours to me. If I ever get mine from Addco, I would gladly give them to someone else.

yes I told Addco that the parts for the front fit. John said he would amend the kit to include the bushings, mounting plates and brackets. You should call them to make sure you get them though.

I also have a second set of rear bushings. If you don't receive yours from addco or Dave, let me know and I will give you mine.

You can get HD front endlinks either from energy suspension or with addco's kit. They are included.

I'm getting some squeaking from the front bushings as they are poly, I will have to give them another shot with the grease gun. I have to say the improvement the bars make is tremendous. I feel like I am driving a different car. Compared to these swaybars, the STB does very little.

AA wrote:

Look for a PM, Dave. I know Addco should send me what I've paid for, but if Jack isn't interested, I'd appreciate it if you sent yours to me. If I ever get mine from Addco, I would gladly give them to someone else.

Aaron, Jack is taking my bars, and will get one set of rear bushings as the kit should include. I'll send you the extra set, no problem.

PM sent.

Continued: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/Supercharged-3800-Tech-c2/Suspension-Handling-f6/sway-bars-installed-t916.htm

STS bar info: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/Supercharged-3800-Tech-c2/Suspension-Handling-f6/Cadillac-STS-Rear-Sway-Bar-Installed-t930.htm

AA wrote:

PM sent.

Leaving on UPS today!

Do we have a write up on changing the sway bars yet??

I took pics of the front installation. I was planning to do the rears here in the next couple weeks, then do a write-up for everything. If you can use a write-up on the fronts, I could put something together.

I must really like you guys because I just lost my write-up when I was 3/4 of the way done and I am starting over

Follow either the approved service manual method (a) or my method (b). The manual calls for disconnecting the downpipe, which I didn't want to do. I think it's faster to drop the subframe. Trust me it is very easy if you have a large floor jack or transmission jack. Either way, you are not getting the stock swaybar out of there without doing either of these steps. Don't waste your time trying to wiggle it out, it won't work.

Removal procedure.

special tools required:
a) universal steering linkage puller (J 24319-B if you have access to GM stuff). Most auto places rent these out. Canadian tire lends it to you for a deposit.; OR

b) pickle fork + hammer (it can be done with just a mallet if your car is rust free); AND
Tranmission jack or large floor jack.

1. Raise the vehicle and support it by the frame. Let the control arms hang free
2. Remove the front wheels
3. Remove the left and right endlink bolts. Old stock ones can be problematic due to rust and worn insulators. You won't be reusing anything on the endlink, so don't worry if the sleeve snaps or you break some of the rubber insulators. Just be sure to remember the order of the washers and insulators.
4. Remove left and right swaybar bushing brakets

5. remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the driver's side tie-rod
5a) Use the puller to remove the left tie rod end from the knuckle
5b) Use the pickle for + hammer to separate the left tie rod end from the knuckle. Place the fork between the two and give it a swift, sharp thwack. If your parts are REALLY old and you mess this up, you may break the rubber and not be able to reuse the tie-rod end.
5c) alternatively, if you have no rust down there, invert the castle nut (put it on upside down) and thread it so the edges of the bolt and the nut align. Give the nut a swift, sharp, vertical hit with a mallet and the tierod end should just pop off.

6a) remove the downpipe from the exhaust manifold and from the intermediate exhaust hangers. Lower the exhaust pipe
6b) Use the transmission jack to support the weight (it is not ok to just put the jack on the trans pan), remove the four (4) front subframe bolts and gently lower the subframe. It's not going down more than a few inches by the way... It won't "fall off"

7a) Turn the left strut completely to the right. SLide the swaybar outboard over the left steering knuckle until the right end comes free
7b) Remove the swaybar by the left wheel well. Expect a lot of wiggling. It will help if you have someone pry the subframe downwards with a large bar.

8a) Remove the swaybar out of the centre of the vehicle

Installation Procedure:

1. Install the swaybar into position. The addco swaybar will slide in more easily than the stocker came out
2. Loosely install the following
2.1 Left and right stabilizer shaft insulators. If you are using the supplied addco poly bushings, be sure to grease them. Expect a little squeaking
2.2 Swaybar brackets (and mounting plates if you are using the addco kit)
2.3 Swaybar bracket bolts
3. Loosely install the endlink components. Remember when I told you to remember the order?
4. Install the tierod ends to the knuckles. If you used step 5c), i.e. you inverted the castle nut, don't forget to put it back on the right way, teeth facing down.

Tighten
- bracket bolts to 38 lb ft (40 Nm). If you get a torque wrench in there, you are my hero.
- Endlink nut to 13 lb ft (17 nm)
- Tie rod end to knuckle castle nut to 35 lb ft (48 Nm)

5. install the cotter pins into the tie-rod ends

6a) install the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Tighten manifold nuts to 18 lb ft (25 Nm)
6b) Lift the trans jack and reinstall the 4 subframe bolts tightly.

7. install the front wheels. Tighten lugnuts to 100 lb-ft

8. Lower the vehicle

I was able to get the OEM bar out without dropping the subframe or disconnecting the downpipe, but I have a 3" flex pipe, so it probably helped even though it's a lot larger in diameter.

I also rented the pickle to remove the tie rod end, but didn't need it. Just put a jack under the end and tap with a hammer. Comes right out, and no risk of tearing the rubber boot (it surely would have torn, imo).

I spend a couple of days trying to figure out how to get the stock bar out. Once I removed the tie rod end, it was easy, New bar went in super smooth. Jason, good right-up, do you mind if I add pictures and a few comments?

no please do add pics. I had lent my digital camera to my GF when I did the sway bars and I don't have a scanner to scan the shop manual diagrams (which are not very helpful anyhow). I also agree that step 5c) would be the easiest to separate the tierod for someone doing it in their driveway

If you send in your installed pics to Addco, you can get free t-shirt.

I also think you were able to pull the swaybar out because of the flex 3" dp. I tried to take it out with the exhaust in place and the exhaust prevented it from getting out.

also as a note: when you put the tie rod back in, it self-centres.