Write-Up: Front/Rear (Addco) Stabilizer/Sway Bar Installation

charlieRobinson wrote:: ^^^^^^^woulda been a perfect chance to get that down pipe installed, but nooooooooooooo.. had to drive a ferrrrrrrrrrrarrrrriiiiiiiiii

I bet that Ferrari had a 3" downpipe.

And if someone would get their headers already maybe I would have had more to do.

Alright, after a bit of testing here's my thoughts on the front bar:

Turn in is much better. I have much more confidence as to where I can place the car at speed.

Front end grip is much better. Maybe a little understeer, but pretty neutral overall.

I can't really take turns too much faster, but I do have more confidence as to maintaining speed in a turn.

Ride quality was pretty much unaffected.

Was it worth it? Only if you have a friend or two willing to help do all the work. You really need another person to help with the exhaust and getting the old bar out. I bet with some nice bushings/brackets all the way around would make for a nice improvement.

Both of my bars were removed from the same car, a 98 Seville STS (all STS's had the FE3 suspension option). Here you can see that there is a decent difference in the thickness between the stock bar and the FE3 bar.

stabilizer bar - Write-Up: Front/Rear (Addco) Stabilizer/Sway Bar Installation - Page 21 Downlo10

stabilizer bar - Write-Up: Front/Rear (Addco) Stabilizer/Sway Bar Installation - Page 21 Downlo10

And a picture of the whole exhaust just because.

stabilizer bar - Write-Up: Front/Rear (Addco) Stabilizer/Sway Bar Installation - Page 21 Downlo11

Sweet thanks for the info. I'm swapping out my rusty subframe and wanted to upgrade the sway bar. Im gonna hit U pick n pull later today and try n get the sway bars off a Caddy. I wasnt sure what car to get them off of.

chitown_riv98 wrote:: Im gonna hit U pick n pull later today and try n get the sway bars off a Caddy. I wasnt sure what car to get them off of.

I would just get the rear bar if you're pulling it yourself. I would also consider getting the F41 bars because from what we know they appear to be slightly better.

The reason I say to just get the rear is because the front is such a pain to get out with the proper tools and materials. I can't imagine trying to pull it from a junkyard unless the car is already missing the exhaust and struts. There's plenty of people selling them on eBay for decent enough prices anyways.

True, I'd think you would just need to remove the brackets and endlinks for the bar and snake it out, it came out fairly easy. I might just check ebay instead. I wonder what the part number for the F41 bar is.

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t10096-complete-gm-f41-suspension-upgrade?highlight=suspension+upgrade

Abaddon wrote:: Ok guys. I've finally put together a complete list of P/N's for a GM F41 suspension upgrade, which I currently have on my car.
These parts are all taken from a 2005 Park Avenue Ultra with the optional Sport Handling package. No, it was not standard. As for fitments, I'm not exactly sure if '95 and '96 Rivs can benefit from the springs, so please do your research before attempting this.

This entire upgrade can be done without any modifications whatsoever. The only mod I suggest is bending the rear self leveling bracket to add a little more air into the rear shocks. Everything is bolt on and go. Here we go...

FRONT SUSPENSION

Springs P/N 22197216
Sway Bar (30mm solid) P/N 25649664
Sway Bar Insulators P/N 25699778 (you'll need 2 of these)
Sway Bar Insulator Clamps P/N 25699779 (you'll need 2 of these)

Factory end links will work, however I chose to simply replace the bushings with a sleeve of Energy Suspension Urethane bushings that I bought at Pep Boys. There are many different ways to upgrade your end links....

REAR SUSPENSION

Springs P/N 25655478
Sway Bar (20mm solid) P/N 25650388
Sway Bar Insulators P/N 25650389 (you'll need 2 of these)
Sway Bar Insulator Clamps P/N 25689592 (you'll need 2 of these)

Again, factory end links work just fine. All I did was buy Urethane bushings and used factory links.

Struts are the same. So I guess your strut choice is up to you. I used Delco struts, well, because I work where I do. My car is the Guinea Pig for this setup. I completed it last fall without knowing exactly if it would work. I can tell you, it does. I love it. Pair this entire setup with a Front Strut Brace, and you've got yourself a factory ride height, stock looking beast. Straight line handling is tight, without being jarring. It rides very, very nice. The car is now stable upwards of 130mph, and I get minimal body roll turning corners (unless you're hitting a corner at 70mph).
The road to my dealership has 2 very sharp curves in it. Most cars can only go 40mph through them. I can do 55mph without a problem, and stay in the same lane. One of the salesmen here has a GTO (newer one) he thinks handles good...he couldn't keep up with the Riv

Any questions, this is the thread to do it in.....Enjoy!

Sweet, thanks matt. I'm going to see if I can find a front sway bar in the junkyard thats 30mm on a STS before I order it online.

chitown_riv98 wrote:: I'm going to see if I can find a front sway bar in the junkyard thats 30mm on a STS before I order it online.

From what we know the STS bar is hollow vs. the solid bar on the Park Avenue. Just throwing that out there because this is the kind of job you want done right and done once.

Dang thanks for the knowledge professor! Would 98 ultras have the right bar?

chitown_riv98 wrote:: Dang thanks for the knowledge professor! Would 98 ultras have the right bar?

No. The F41 Sport Tuned Suspension was an option. It was springs, sway bars, and wheels. Very few of the PAU's on the road have it.

Bought a nearly new Addco front swaybar kit from al_roethlisberger here on the forum and just ordered the rear bar from Jegs. I do believe it's time to start modding the suspension. cool

I might need some end links...

stabilizer bar - Write-Up: Front/Rear (Addco) Stabilizer/Sway Bar Installation - Page 21 20140903_161103_zpsdkz83ydy

Yeah, almost all our OEM end links look like that at some point or another!!!

That's definitely the source of the clunking noise I've been hearing while turning.

Search "links" and you may find some in our For Sale section - that will never need to replaced as long as you own the car.

_________________
'05 GTO 6.0L • 6-spd • 95k miles • 0-60: 4.8s • 16.9 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:26

'95 Celica GT 2.2L • 5-spd • 165k miles • 0-60: yes

'98 SC Riviera • 281k miles • 298 HP/370 TQ • 0-60: 5.79s • ET: 13.97 @ 99.28 • 4087 lb • 20.1 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:30
3.4" pulley • AL104 plugs • 180º t-stat • FWI w/K&N • 1.9:1 rockers • OR pushrods • LS6 valve springs • SLP headers • ZZP fuel rails
KYB GR2 struts • MaxAir shocks • Addco sway bars • UMI bushings • GM STB • Enkei 18" EV5s w/ Dunlop DZ101s • F-body calipers
EBC bluestuff/Hawk HP plus • SS lines • Brembo slotted discs • DHP tuned • Aeroforce • Hidden Hitch
^^^ SOLD ^^^ frown

'70 Ninety-Eight Holiday Coupe 455cid • 116k miles
^^^ SOLD ^^^ frown

AA wrote:: Search "links" and you may find some in our For Sale section - that will never need to replaced as long as you own the car.

Will do!

I never really noticed any excessive body roll in turns. Just an awful clunking noise that made me slow down A LOT.

Just an FYI/PSA for anyone who installs their front bar.

Check your cradle bolts and make sure they're still torqued, and use loctite if you need to. Nearly a year(?) later mine had started to back out a little bit and were causing clunks/noise at speed. Tightened them back up and the clunks and noise are gone.

AA wrote:: Search "links" and you may find some in our For Sale section - that will never need to replaced as long as you own the car.

Aaron, what did you mean by "They will never need to be replaced as long as you own your car". ???

Does that mean to say that you'll never have to replace the links and bushings forever.???

I purchased and installed Energy Suspension Links for both the front and rear Addco bars, also upgraded to a 3/8" hardened bolt for all 4 positions. I have recently noticed a considerable gap between the ES bushings and the front sway bar while I was inspecting for a noise in what I thought was my front end.

The noise turns out to be caused by the cradle mounts deteriorating, but still have the gap to address on the sway bar bushings.

Any input.?????

The ES bushings, or any Urethane Bushing for that matter, will eventually "squish" and become smaller. Tighten up the links until the gap is gone......

Abaddon wrote:: The ES bushings, or any Urethane Bushing for that matter, will eventually "squish" and become smaller. Tighten up the links until the gap is gone......

I agree and am aware that the bushings would compress somewhat over time. I need to disassemble and remove a bit of material from the spacer in between and tighten them again.

RickW wrote:: Aaron, what did you mean by "They will never need to be replaced as long as you own your car". ??? Does that mean to say that you'll never have to replace the links and bushings forever.???

The GUARANTEE states the links function as intended for the life of your car. Aside from surface rust and general appearance, if any part breaks or fails, it will be replaced free of charge. Sure, after some track use, or a couple years of daily driving, the ES bushings might show a compressed appearance, but this doesn't mean they've failed. Just re-torque per the spec in the instructions, as Abaddon pointed out.

I suppose it's possible to crack or wear an ES poly bushing to the point of failure (I define that as bushing gone & metal/metal contact), but I've not been able to do it yet, and I've pushed the front suspension on this car enough to bend ES sway bar brackets. There are more than a dozen members who own these sets, and so far no failures reported.

_________________
'05 GTO 6.0L • 6-spd • 95k miles • 0-60: 4.8s • 16.9 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:26

'95 Celica GT 2.2L • 5-spd • 165k miles • 0-60: yes

'98 SC Riviera • 281k miles • 298 HP/370 TQ • 0-60: 5.79s • ET: 13.97 @ 99.28 • 4087 lb • 20.1 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:30
3.4" pulley • AL104 plugs • 180º t-stat • FWI w/K&N • 1.9:1 rockers • OR pushrods • LS6 valve springs • SLP headers • ZZP fuel rails
KYB GR2 struts • MaxAir shocks • Addco sway bars • UMI bushings • GM STB • Enkei 18" EV5s w/ Dunlop DZ101s • F-body calipers
EBC bluestuff/Hawk HP plus • SS lines • Brembo slotted discs • DHP tuned • Aeroforce • Hidden Hitch
^^^ SOLD ^^^ frown

'70 Ninety-Eight Holiday Coupe 455cid • 116k miles
^^^ SOLD ^^^ frown

I hate to be "that guy", but I think my Riv has seen the most abuse out of anyone with AA's links. Haven't even had to touch them since I put them on, they're still nice and tight without any gaps.

Subject: Addco Rear Sway Bar Sun Apr 19, 2015 1:21 pm

Found this rear Addco Sway Bar on Amazon while looking for something else.
Don't know if this is a good price, as I haven't looked lately, but seems to be.

http://www.amazon.com/ADDCO-2015-Rear-Performance-Anti-Sway/dp/B000OCQRVU/ref=sr_1_293?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1429463828&vehicle=1998-45-394-20--7-6-5-1222-377-1-1-964--1-0&sr=1-293&ymm=1998%3Abuick%3Ariviera

EDIT Looks like Jegs has it for $176.28 with Free Shipping. So Jeg's beats Amazon. That's a lot less than when I bought one.

Sumitt and Jegs have the same price and free shipping 176.28

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACO-2015/

http://www.jegs.com/i/ADDCO/020/2015/10002/-1

_________________
98 Riviera SC3800 All stock except gutted air box.
1970 Buick GS455 Stage1, TSP built 470BBB, 602HP/589TQ
Best MPH, 116.06 MPH, Best ET, 11.54
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHCda-t_Jls
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfT2tEO4XcU

Wow. Expensive for 22mm rear sway bar you can get off and STS for cheap wink

! 2nd Gen Auroras have 20mm rear ones too which is still a slight upgrade.

» Write-Up: ES Bracket Wear - UMI Performance Brackets (for Addco sway bars)
» Write-Up: Cadillac STS Rear Sway Bar Install
» REAR SWAY BAR?
» Stock Sway Bar Bushings
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