suspension issues

The inner sounds ok.If you cant move the outer tie rod stud,or with effort,its bad.Is it the original tie rod?If it is i would just go ahead and change it.I think rockauto sells em for around $11 bucks.

It took some effort, but what concerned me was that the grease is coming out of the boot. and my dad must have had them replaced before, because it has a greaseable nipple

They do bleed a little.nothing to worry about.just clean em up,shoot some more grease in there and re-do the test.if its still hard to move then replace em.
I would do the same test to the rear adjustment links.I can allmost guarantee theyre bad.

Okay so i will probably replace the outer tie rod ends and the rear adjustment links, but i cannot find them online? Do the rear adjustment links have an official name? and also i want to buy these either from napa or oreilly's. Is there a recommended brand? It would be nice not to have to buy the one that are over 50 dollars a piece, but i also don't want to buy crap.

Yup.Rear adjustment links.I looked in rockauto,couldnt find em.I coulda swore i saw em there awhile ago. You might have to go to the dealer for those.do the test first tho.

Any preference on tie rod ends?

I bought the moogs.they work good.If $ is an issue,the $11 dollar raybestos are fine.I had them on before I bought the moogs and they never gave me a problem.I changed em just because.more money than brains kinda time in my life.

..but come to think of it..I would call moog or raybestos and ask them if they have just the rear tie rod end.I took my old rear adjustment link out to the car and compared the two and found that the rear adjustment link threaded rod is alot bigger than the front.and it has a clam shell type lock nut & bolt on the side of it vs a lock nut that snugs up against the end of the tie rod.so..it would be dumb if they dont make just the tie rod for the rear.t buying the whole assembly would probably cost a few bucks imo!

Okay so i put in the cheap napa tie rod ends on the front. I tried to align it as well as i could, but the ends were slightly shorter and my alignment is off. I'll take it to get aligned soon, but i want to figure out what is making that clicking noise as i move from a stop first.

I do my own alignments.I have a caster/camber gauge
http://tinyurl.com/578486
Caster camber is rarely disturbed,but if it is the gauge will exactly put it right.

A string alignment isnt hard at all.My friends make fun of it.they call it an "Eye Linement" but I can take my hands off the wheel in a straight line @ 80mph and the car will track straight and the steering wheel is level and steady.
Doing it this way takes some figuring.get into it and you can do your own alignments and save a bundle.My alignment has lasted longer and is straighter than the stupid shop.It took me a while to get there,but I kept at it and can now align my ride in an hour or so.For Free!
The best tip is,after you have done everything,you have to take the car for a little ride.around the block is enough.this setlles the suspension and any fine tuning can be done if needed.Most important is to lock the steering wheel and level it.I position the wheel as close to level as I can in such a way as to be able to LOCK IT when i remove the key.you have to fiddle a little sometimes to do this.once the wheel is locked and level alignment is much easier.

wheres the best place to buy our suspensions parts ( bushings, tie rods, links etc) i figure i might as well do ALL of that in preparation for new suspension.

rockauto.com
great prices

sweet, dont want any issues whenit gets here