plug or gap problem?

I've been running ap104's for awhile and sometimes I get a occasional misfire. On my lunch break I swapped them out for a set of tr55's I ran them with the gap they came with. Took the car for a ride and it seems slower and that's without about 200lbs of tools in the trunk. I don't have a boost gauge but dashcommand put me at 11.8psi at wot.Mods are 3.4 pulley,4"fwi, 3" dp accel 8mm wires. Also what are the signs of the tcc solenoid going out.. thanks

How long have you ran the 104s? They are usually good for about 1 year or 20k miles. If they don't look fouled, and the gaps are still close to .058", I'd leave the 104s in.

11.8 PSI is plenty of boost. How much KR are you seeing?

When my TCC solenoid went, I got the SES lamp with a TCC trouble code. You can also tell if the TCC is locking up by tapping the brake when at a steady cruise on the freeway. Leave the other foot on the gas, barely tap the brake. RPM should jump up as TCC releases. If no jump, your TCC wasn't engaged.

I swapped them about about three months back. I had two that were cracked. As far as kr I have no idea I usually just run my dashcommand and see if I'm losing timing a wot. Lately at light throttle on the highway timing will jus drop to zero. I think I have a.vacuum leak somewhere because its been very erratic. The FCC works on the highway but I get the feeling it trying to lock up off idle because taking off there is a flat spot in the powerband. Almost like when your cruising and punch it that short hesitation when the trans kicks down

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As far as kr I have no idea I usually just run my dashcommand and see if I'm losing timing a wot. Lately at light throttle on the highway timing will jus drop to zero.

This would scare me a bit. Low RPM high-loads are known for "bad" KR. I don't think it's your TCC because it isn't programmed to lock-up in 1st or 2nd gear. If it's stuck locked, the car would stall when rolling under 25 mph.

If you can read MAP, when in vacuum (idle) should be about -19 or -20 PSI on a working system.

Zero timing suggests a problem, imo. Could be there is KR, or there has been so much KR that the PCM resorted to the "bad fuel" timing table, which cuts timing at all times.

At idle: intake temp 93 degrees, timing is +28,map 11inhg, maf 0.7lb/min,BST/vac -10.1psi

these were taken at wot. also detected that the flat spot during take off is the pcm pulling the timing to zero. Could this be flase kr? Because it'll pull all the timing then recover. The 11+psi is what i had a couple months back now the max i get is around 8.8psi
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False KR is usually wishful thinking. I've never encountered it personally, except maybe on a really hard shift. It's possible, but what have you installed that's banging on your engine block to cause it? At 11 PSI with your mods, and 0º timing, I'm betting it's the real thing. Id be concerned if timing dropped below 10º. Zero timing means the PCM is doing everything it can to cut power. A better scan tool would tell you what's up.

Any suggestions on scan tools?

www.obd2.com

what particulars should i look for within the scan

Aa I appreciate the help. I know what I usrefor scanning isn't exactly adequate for.what I'm trying to do.But their are pids I can watch and check in the data logging section. I just need to know what to look for like odd maf readings 02 voltages off etc.

What you have is better than nothing at all, but if you're serious about scanning the car, you need to be able to see KR. I recommend an AeroForce, or AutoTap on a laptop or Palm device.

ground wire for the icm was wound up and stud was loose. Spliced and moved it because i didnt have a terminal that size. Timing seems to be a little more on point now. Pcm doesnt pull the timing to 0* coming from a dead stop, it'll drop to about +8* then come back up. Reving in park/neutral it will go up to about +30-34* It wasnt doing this before. On the freeway at wot i hold about +10-12*. 4th with the tc locked up is a different story. I also have a exhaust leak at the installed flex joint i can see the redness and hear it under light load also a pin hole right in-front of the cat. O2 right before the dp flange seems to be fluctuating alot as low as .040 during idle and regular driving condions. Wot they both read .925-.950

Is the leak upstream or downstream of the first O2 sensor?

O2 operation seems normal. It's supposed to fluctuate while running. On WOT sustained 925-950 is right where it should be.

Imo, your timing cut with TCC locked is a result of KR from the increased load. Combined with the load, the cause for this KR could be anything from a clogged injector, to weak fuel pressure, to carbon deposits, or the need for a PCM tune.

FWIW, even with a lot of tuning work I couldn't get my 3.4 pulley to run KR free until I installed 1.9 rockers. I doubt it's false KR.