Replacement Ignition Key

Hi all.

I want to have one or 2 ignition keys made. With the chip in it, how do we do that?

the chip is a resistor i believe the are numbered 1 to 15,if you go to the dealership with your vin # they could tell you or check the resistance urself.

Rivieraz wrote:

the chip is a resistor i believe the are numbered 1 to 15,if you go to the dealership with your vin # they could tell you or check the resistance yourself.

Once you have the resistance, you can have a key cut at a real locksmith, or at a GM dealer (if someone remembers how to use that specific key cutter). My dealer has not charged me much at all for that if I bring my own key blank (maybe the $ goes into the coffee fund ha ha). The keys themselves were so low, low priced on eBay I bought a few - years ago. Not sure now, maybe go check it out. Granted, I think it's been about a decade since I had a key cut.

If you have someone handy with electrical, bypass the pass key using the same resistance method and never need a dealer to copy the key again, and no worries about the system shutting you out if the stops reading the key. There is a bypass for the system, just google passkey bypass. It should come up.

Yardley wrote:

Hi all.

I want to have one or 2 ignition keys made. With the chip in it, how do we do that?

Specifically:

1) in the factory service manual there's a table stating what number the keys are.  ALSO - the LS1 site has a table up showing the GM part numbers and resistance values for the keys.  Resistance value?  Yeah, the chip in the key is just a resistor.  Using an ohmmeter, just measure resistance by touching the ohmmeter leads to opposite sides of the "chip" (don't touch the key, you'll gen an error.  Just touch the then metal sides of the chip)

Here is the link to the table: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech.com-vbulletin/443x468/vatsresistancetable_52efc5aa75d4545f78388f1c256e5962ffddd63f.jpg


2a) you can get a dealer to cut your keys. The dealer can use the VIN to figure out which key, sell you a couple, and how to cut it to fit your original ignition cylinder. HOWEVER, if your cylinder was replaced and not re-set to match the old key, it'll be wrong. Just saying... slip the old key to the dealer if you want the dealer to cut the key...

2b) you can bypass the dealer. The key blanks are available over the internet, eBay and elsewhere -- you just have to know the resistance in the chip on the one you are replacing and then buy the key blanks having the number corresponding to that range. It'll take you less time to do this than it took to read this paragraph. From eBay the blanks will run $10 to $15 each shipped. From gmpartsdirect.com, someting like $22 plus tax and postage.

Then with your key blanks, find a locksmith or hardware store that will cut your keys. Some shops won't warrant a cut if they don't sell you the blanks -- tell them you'll take the risk, just to be careful lining up the key in the lathe. By the way - -if your old keys are worn, you may be better off just having the dealer cut them from the VIN. GM dealers have a machine that does this (although it may not have been used in a while... be patient... ). Pretty much every locksmith advertising that it cuts car keys can cut PASSKey II keys properly.

What I did:

I measured my key chip, bought key blanks off eBay, the dealer cut them for me (my dealer didn't stock them anymore but had the machine), since it was my blanks, they did check the keys to see that they matched the car, and didn't charge me much for the cuts. Your mileage will vary of course. It was not under the table, they had a shop code for just doing the cuts and I got a receipt, but I jokingly tell myself the $ went into the shop's coffee till.

Bottom line is, now that PASSKey II has come and gone so to speak, but there are loads of cars with it still on the road, this is not so hard.

You *can" bypass the system, you will find instructions elsewhere on this site, and you will also find near there my comments as to why not do that. In your case, it's so easy to get proper keys and your system is working otherwise, don't mess with it just get the keys. Granted, the dealers charge as much as $36 each for these keys - the price on eBay for proper blanks is more like $15 unless you buy several at once, then they get cheap -- shop a bit you'll be surprised. Try using "GM VATS Key # double sided" as your search string. I saw #3 keys for $6 each, quantity one. See what you turn up.

Thanks. I ohm'd out a key. Got 11.76 - whatever the hell that means. I tried it on every ohm setting. I believe that is key #15. I'll stop at a Buick store asap.

albertj wrote:

Yardley wrote:

Hi all.

I want to have one or 2 ignition keys made. With the chip in it, how do we do that?

Specifically:

1) in the factory service manual there's a table stating what number the keys are.  ALSO - the LS1 site has a table up showing the GM part numbers and resistance values for the keys.  Resistance value?  Yeah, the chip in the key is just a resistor.  Using an ohmmeter, just measure resistance by touching the ohmmeter leads to opposite sides of the "chip" (don't touch the key, you'll gen an error.  Just touch the then metal sides of the chip)

Here is the link to the table: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech.com-vbulletin/443x468/vatsresistancetable_52efc5aa75d4545f78388f1c256e5962ffddd63f.jpg


2a) you can get a dealer to cut your keys.  The dealer can use the VIN to figure out which key, sell you a couple, and how to cut it to fit your original ignition cylinder.  HOWEVER, if your cylinder was replaced and not re-set to match the old key, it'll be wrong. Just saying... slip the old key to the dealer if you want the dealer to cut the key...

2b) you can bypass the dealer.  The key blanks are available over the internet, eBay and elsewhere -- you just have to know the resistance in the chip on the one you are replacing and then  buy the key blanks having the number corresponding to that range.  It'll take you less time to do this than it took to read this paragraph.  From eBay the blanks will run $10 to $15 each shipped.   From gmpartsdirect.com, someting like $22 plus tax and postage.

Then with your key blanks, find a locksmith or hardware store that will cut your keys.  Some shops won't warrant a cut if they don't sell you the blanks -- tell them you'll take the risk, just to be careful lining up the key in the lathe.  By the way - -if your old keys are worn, you may be better off just having the dealer cut them from the VIN.  GM dealers have a machine that does this (although it may not have been used in a while... be patient... ).  Pretty much every locksmith advertising that it cuts car keys can cut PASSKey II keys properly.  

What I did:

I measured my key chip, bought key blanks off eBay, the dealer cut them for me (my dealer didn't stock them anymore but had the machine), since it was my blanks, they did check the keys to see that they matched the car, and didn't charge me much for the cuts.  Your mileage will vary of course. It was not under the table, they had a shop code for just doing the cuts and I got a receipt, but I jokingly tell myself the $ went into the shop's coffee till.
ow
Bottom line is, now that PASSKey II has come and gone so to speak, but there are loads of cars with it still on the road, this is not so hard.  

You *can" bypass the system, you will find instructions elsewhere on this site, and you will also find near there my comments as to why not do that.  In your case, it's so easy to get proper keys and your system is working otherwise, don't mess with it just get the keys. Granted, the dealers charge as much as $36 each for these keys - the price on eBay for proper blanks is more like $15 unless you buy several at once, then they get cheap -- shop a bit you'll be surprised.  Try using "GM VATS Key # double sided" as your search string.  I saw #3 keys for $6 each, quantity one.  See what you turn up.

I bypass when the system is damaged. I see no reason why it shouldn't be attempt if you know what you are doing.

Follow up. I took the key to a local Buick dealer. They have a box into which they insert the key and it tells them the ohm and the number and all. They ordered me a key and cut it for me. It was pretty cheap.

Thanks!

Yardley wrote:

Follow up. I took the key to a local Buick dealer. They have a box into which they insert the key and it tells them the ohm and the number and all. They ordered me a key and cut it for me. It was pretty cheap.

Thanks!

Glad you got it sorted out.

Does anyone use a #10 VATS key in their Riv?
I have a blank I can't use.
New. Free.



BTW, I went to a Buick dealer in Albany to have blanks cut. The young guy doing this job sounded all the world as if he knew what he was doing, but took 4 times to cut the key and it still wouldn't turn in the ignition.
They returned my money, but when I went to a professional locksmith shop, they said it was cut too short in some places and too long in others. FAIL.
I had them throw that key out after they cut 3 keys that worked the first time (and these are two sided).
Guh.

I wouldn't mind replacing my old keys, but I have no idea what VATS I have.

Jack the R wrote:

I wouldn't mind replacing my old keys, but I have no idea what VATS I have.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fpbz5oD0Vec&ab_channel=smallengineshop

A locksmith that does automotive work has a machine that can measure the resistance to get you the right frequency for the key.  You can also get a key cut by code and it will be just like an original key.

AAA locksmith did mine

So, when someone needs a #10 key, let me know and I'll send it along.
I can't use this blank. My car requires a #5 with the current lockset.