Brake Light and Chime (ding-ding-ding)

Fun new problem arose today.

I get in, car starts but as soon as I apply the accerator the caution brakes light comes on. When I let off the accelerator the light goes out. When accelerating for a bit to come up to speed from a stop, with the brake light on, it starts to chime.

Never a dull moment with this Riv.

After driving for awhile, the light does not react and no chiming. But wouldn't ya know my rich GF calls me out on it as soon as we get in the car. She thinks I make excuses for keeping it around. Well unlike her, my dad is not giving me $12k towards a new car next year. Unlike her, I have insurance, auto loan, and school to pay for. I love her but sometime she really pisses me off with her matter of fact attitude.

I'm wondering if putting in the new battery did something to the electircal system that would make the brake light go nuts.

There is new brake lines, shoes and rotors, so what the issue NOW?!

Andysdorm wrote:

Fun new problem arose today.

I get in, car starts but as soon as I apply the accerator the caution brakes light comes on. When I let off the accelerator the light goes out. When accelerating for a bit to come up to speed from a stop, with the brake light on, it starts to chime.

Never a dull moment with this Riv.

After driving for awhile, the light does not react and no chiming. But wouldn't ya know my rich GF calls me out on it as soon as we get in the car. She thinks I make excuses for keeping it around. Well unlike her, my dad is not giving me $12k towards a new car next year. Unlike her, I have insurance, auto loan, and school to pay for. I love her but sometime she really pisses me off with her matter of fact attitude.

I'm wondering if putting in the new battery did something to the electircal system that would make the brake light go nuts.

There is new brake lines, shoes and rotors, so what the issue NOW?!

Is different problem, most likely - check the level and quality of the fluid in the brake reservoir.

albertj wrote:

Is different problem, most likely - check the level and quality of the fluid in the brake reservoir.

Will do, thanks. hope it's something stupid cheap.

This usually indicates low brake fluid. And that means either you have a fluid leak, or the pads are getting very low.

I hope that's not the case. All pads were replaced and lines were all done recently; cost me over $1k.

Andysdorm wrote:

albertj wrote:

Is different problem, most likely - check the level and quality of the fluid in the brake reservoir.

Will do, thanks. hope it's something stupid cheap.

If the level is low, refill it. If the light is still on, gently tap the side of the reservoir with a screw driver. Whenever I do my front brakes, I suck out the old fluid with a turkey baster, and refill with fresh fluid, and that light doesn't go out until I tap the reservoir a few times.

Like the others have said, it's a classic case of low brake fluid. The sensor is near the front of the reservoir, detecting the low level when you accelerate from low speed (shifting fluid rearward). At cruising speed, your accelerations are not as forceful, as you are in a higher gear, so the fluid isn't shifted enough to trip the sensor.

Two things point to a leak:

1) In my experience, the fluid cannot get low enough only due to worn pads to trip the brake warning lamp and chime, even under hard acceleration. This is IF the fluid was filled to the correct level to begin with. I've ran pads down to the shims and never had the warning light/chime come on.

2) You mentioned you recently paid someone to redo pads and brake lines. This again points to a leak, since someone has had their hands in there, and apparently didn't do a good job. The fact that you said recently, and not yesterday indicates some time has lapsed, pointing at a slow leak. If you picked the car up from the shop and immediately noticed the warning, it would mean they didn't fill the fluid to correct level (easy fix).

Look in the front/rear wheels/tires for evidence of dripping fluid. Have someone pump the brakes while you watch - wear safety glasses and keep hands away from lines to avoid injection hazard (brake fluid is high pressure, enough to pierce your skin deeply even with gloves.

Or, since you paid someone a good amount of money to do the work, maybe take it back and demand a portion, or all, of your money back, or they can find the leak and fix IF you trust they will do a good job and won't charge you more to do it.

PS - sorry if you read my earlier post saying you spent too much. I thought you paid them $1k to change the flexible hoses. But lines I can understand. That's a lot of work!

It was definitely the lines that was replaced. My brother in law mechanic was not going to help with it.

Even with the entire $1k, he didn't put on new pads or rotors.

I assume the person who did your lines refilled the reservoir with fresh fluid, to the correct level. How long has it been since the work was done?

The work was done 9/22/10, do I have a case if it is months over a year since it's been done?

This kinda work should outlast my use of the car not only 14 months.

According to the slip: FILLED UP BRAKE FLUID AND BLED SYSTEM

I just went outside and checked the brake fluid reservoir. I'm happy to report it's full.

I did notice a wire/plug attached to the reservoir. It looks older than the others but don't think it's decrepid. I unplugged it and plugged it back in. Weirdly, the plug does not snap/clip into place even though the piece it still attached. Is this it? I may be coming loose setting off the light?

That's very strange. It could indeed be the sensor plug, but that doesn't explain the chime coming on only when you accelerate. That behavior indicates the fluid is actually low. Is it possible anyone else might have filled the fluid without you knowing?

Does the warning lamp/chime still set when you drive the car? Try engaging and then releasing the parking brake to ensure it works.

AA wrote:

Try engaging and then releasing the parking brake to ensure it works.

That was the first thing I did when I saw it for the first time. Having had work done, I wasn't sure if they applied the e-brake. I know my old Riv had a weird e-brake that didn't seem to 'set', yet it was never an issue when I got it inspected every year.

So when I saw this light, I pulled over, set the e-brake (the light stayed on), then I disengaged it and the light went out. I proceeded to move without the issue but as soon as I got onto a main road and accelerated a bit it came back one.


P.S. my girlfriend could have gotten her new 2012 Ford Fusion for $15,887 after incentives today but decided waiting a month to buy the same car for $24k. Seriously this casual attitude towards money could be an issue when we go off into the world together. Sometimes I joke she is my Operah and I am her Steadman.

I checked wrong.


When I went out to see if the brake fluid reservoir was still full I noticed, based on the size of the reservoir, that it looked like it had the majority of fluid inside the container. There was no noticeable fill line so I figured it was enough.

I pulled into my mechanic's service center and the inspection sticker guy shakes his head like 'not again'. We really do seem to bring in all the winners, whether it be my Riv, the AirBag code on the Miata or my dad aweful truck.

I taked to my mechanic, he told me to pull the car to the garage door, went to his workbench to retrieve the bottle of brake fluid, and filled the reservoir to the top. Fixed.

He pointed out the issue, it was the "master" that was leaking. Master cylinder? It's right behind the reservoir and in front of the steering wheel.

My $0.02: Consider replacing the MC and reservoir. my guess is based on your electrical connector not fitting that the OE setup has already been replaced once. What you might really want is a *rebuilt8 not new MC. The rebuilt one should have a electrical connector that fits right, and as well (if it is a Cardone) will have been bored out and sleeved not just honed. Basically you're looking for a rebuilt that's marked Ate or Bendix (got the mark cast into the MC metal).

The MC should *not* be leaking - even though it is a slow leak and you can top it off, the most important system on the car is the brakes. No matter what else is happening, you must be able to stop two tons of fun.

Master Cylinder to me sounds as serious as head gasket and computer. How much does these things run?

If you are losing any brake fluid it's not okay. You should not have to add brake fluid. I would wait until you need to add it again just to be sure. keep an eye on the fluid level.

Andysdorm wrote:

Master Cylinder to me sounds as serious as head gasket and computer. How much does these things run?

They aren't that expensive but do require you to bleed the master cylinder and then all of the brakes afterward.

Sometimes the master cylinder can leak fluid internally into the brake booster. But - make sure there is no external leak from the lines or other components. Having had the lines redone, they are suspect. At least worth having the shop do a check. The master cylinder on our cars is a quality unit. Many are still original after 10 years and 100k miles.

If there's absolutely no leaking from the lines, hoses, or calipers, have the master cylinder replaced. It's a ~$75 part + approx 2 hours labor, I'd guess. Or you can save $200 and do the job yourself.