12" Rear Disc Brake Mod

Quote :

I think if we could get a vented rotor design for the rear it would help with the warpage issues.
Agree or dis-agree

Rick, I have vented and cross drilled Brembo rotors on my rears (same as front) and have have no warping issues at all. Come to think about it, I never had warping issues with the stockers but it wasn"t driven hard until after the mods...

They fit as stock replacements with stock calipers?
I didn't know those were available. You do mean vented and not just cross-drilled?
Do you remember what company you order them from. I can only find fronts not rears.

Supposedly you can do some kind of rear brake upgrade in the grand prixs (very similar to our brakes) that involves something about grand am front brakes. That might be a way to get a vented rear rotor. Not sure what the deal is for a caliper there, if you use grand am front calipers in the back (which is my suspicion) you lose e-brake functionality, not recommended...

Rickw they are stock replacements that work with stock calipers. From Brembo. Cross drilled and vented.

For those of you wanting to do a brake upgrade here is a minor one.


Bonneville GXP brake brakets part # 18026216 Order 2.
and GXP Rear rotors (11.7" compared to stock 11")
and Pads of your choosing.



The rear brakes are the same on a Riviera.

ewolfe0050 wrote:

Rickw they are stock replacements that work with stock calipers. From Brembo. Cross drilled and vented.

It appears, after searching a bunch of Brake sites, that they no longer make the one for the rear.
That's why I asked if you possibly remember what vendor you got them from.

It was a local speed shop here in town called Auto Cre8tions. Unfortunately they are out of business now.

Rick, there are some bolt on slotted/drilled options for the rear:

EBC

ATE

I currently have EBC slotted and dimpled rotors all the way around with about 12,000 miles on them and am beginning to feel the hint of pulsation at high speed braking.
What I would like to find is a true vented disc for the rear, not a flat slab of steel. I think a vented disk will help with the heat warpage issue.
I'm not near replacing these yet, I will remove, clean, check runout, index or shim as necessary to bring them within .003" as I did when installing them new. But again just trying to find a company that makes a true vented rotor for the rears.

I agree, the rear vented discs would be nice. Would need a set of wider calipers, too. I don't know what makes more sense - a great rear system, or replacing the rears with Brembo solids every 25k ($15 per side).

If that's all the Brembo solids cost then that would be cost effective.

after re-reading this thread, I have slotted and drilled rotors on the back not vented. I do not know of any company that sells the "vented" rear brakes for our cars... Have you guys really been having that many warping problems with your rears?

After only 12K miles I'm starting to feel pulsation again but I have yet to measure runout on them yet.
When i do I'll find out if it's the rears, fronts or both.
But one good thing is catching it early. I should be able to index or shim them to bring them to within .003" and get much more life out of them.
When I ran stock type cheap rotors the front and rears would warp.

My OEM rears died at just over 50k miles. The next set lasted a LONG time. Third pair were Brembos, now with 25k miles and slight judder, but I think it's not getting any worse, maybe going away.

EDIT:

Here is a rear big brake kit for 95 Rivieras. Supplied by Precision Brakes Company for HorsePowerFreaks.com:

Rotors: 12.8" dia x .87" thick (wow!), 2-piece w/ alum hats, available in same finishes.
Calipers: 4-piston Wilwoods, probably the same, available in red, maybe other colors.

Kits include necessary brackets and hardware, stainless steel brake lines, and brake pads (likely are Wilwood BP10, a high performance street pad).

Probably not the exact set, but close:



Price: $1,649.34

Order from: HorsePowerFreaks.com

I've read the sets are made to order, so may take a while to get these. Not a bad price for what you get. I would bet lots of money this 'kit' is not designed specifically for Riviera, so it probably not proportioned correctly. Take care - might need some testing/tuning to get things dialed in for safe high speed operation.

More info found here: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/576316-precision-brakes-company.html

Has anyone done this? Can you put a set of front ones on the back, or at least put some on that don't have a completely retarded design? Forgive me if this is a stupid question, I'm not very familiar with brakes.

..Its not that stupid a question.  I been thinkin about adapting the Firebird calipers to the rear.It is doable,ya just have to figure out how to adapt a caliper bracket for the rear and instal a spot caliper for the E-brake.

matt270avian wrote:

Has anyone done this? Can you put a set of front ones on the back, or at least put some on that don't have a completely retarded design? Forgive me if this is a stupid question, I'm not very familiar with brakes.

Not a stupid question, but I'd like to know why you think our rear brakes have a retarded design. I've replaced the brakes on mine many times over the years - except for the case of the OEM rear discs, the front brakes always wear faster than the rears. We have more than enough pad and rotor in the rear to do the job. My rear calipers are still original, even the grease in the slider pins, at 263k miles.

Ditto. All original rear hardware at 203k miles. I used to want more stopping power from the rear but with the hp+ pads back there i almost need better tires before doing any more upgrades now. In a panic stop the rear tires will lock up and the tail end can get a very uncontrollable in a corner. And that is with new 245 summer sport tires too.

Forgot to mention this, Matthew, but I recently wore my HP+ pads down after a couple years of good use. I was in a bind so replaced with cheap Duralast from AutoZone, planning to change them back eventually. I still have the EBC bluestuff up front.

Honestly, I don't mind the softer biting Duralast in rear, for the reason you mentioned. I have almost as much deceleration in a straight line now, and in the corners I worry less, especially in the wet. Plus the Duralast are quieter than HP+ and don't seem to be wearing the rotors as much.

I think I may end up somewhere in the middle, switching to Hawk HP-S for the rear. I know I recommended the HP+ to you since you were looking for a very good deceleration rates, and hope they aren't "too much". For me they worked, but I have more weight over the rear axle than most. One way to look at it - don't brake in the corners and you'll be fine!

I love them. My only problem is the dust seems to stick to the wheels way more than the fronts(hp+ also). Not sure why but i have to clay bar them to get them clean now. Doesnt wipe or wash off like the fronts do. 
I rarely ever brake in a corner. I learned a long time ago that the tires will only take so much. Either braking, cornering or accelerating. I brake late due to the stopping power but let off entering the corner and im always on the gas at or before apex. Fwd ftw lol

I think it sticks because it's being applied in thinner coats over time (maybe?).

You might try getting the wheels nice and clean, then applying a coat of wax. Should help remove the dust next time. I think they make special protectant products for this, but I don't know the peoduct name.

Idk because it is caked on in a day or two. I think part of the problem is i didnt give them a good cleaning after wearing off the black oxide coating on the new ebc rotors. That stuff probably adhered to the wheels with heat. I normally use meguires chrome polish and ultimate wax on them...havent done it since its in the mid 90s here

Do you still have the box? I'd check to see if the sent you HP+ or something different!

Mine always stayed pretty clean in the back.

Yes both the box and the back of the pads say hawk hp+ and the correct part #. I can get a pick later tho. Maybe they werr a bad batch? They do stop really well.

Doubt they are bad. I'm stumped on this one.