HomeDashboardFAQSearchRiviera Questions & AnswersWrite-Ups IndexRegisterRelated LinksMemberlistLog in

Share | 
 

 Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts

View previous topic View next topic Go down 
Go to page : 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7  Next
AuthorMessage
AA
Administrator
avatar

Name : Aaron
Age : 40
Location : C-bus, Ohio
Joined : 2007-01-13
Post Count : 18310
Merit : 239

PostSubject: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Wed Jan 17, 2007 1:09 pm

Installing KYB Struts on a ’98 Riviera

Suspensions on larger luxury cars like the Riviera can be a bit on the soft side, even new. After 100k miles or so, they can get a little too soft; suspension failure can creep up very slowly during that time. It may not be that noticeable, but if the car is bouncing all over the road, vibrates abnormally over bumps, makes squeaking noises, or rolls excessively in the turns, it’s probably time to think about fixing the suspension. The front struts are a good place to start.

KYB struts

The factory struts, made by Macpherson for GM, are adequate, but another option is the Japanese made GR-2 by KYB (originally “Kayaba Manufacturing”). The GR-2 is a gas strut that’s a little firmer than the OEM model. KYB's intent with the GR-2 is to improve performance over the original design, but not to change the handling of the car in a drastic way. KYB makes other high-performance struts for the purpose of creating very firm road holding, but unfortunately not for the Riviera. Nevertheless, if your OEM struts are on their last leg, even the basic GR-2s will seem like a major upgrade.

‘95-‘99 Riviera Suspension Changes

The Riviera’s suspension geometry was changed from ’96 to ’97, and then again in ’98. The KYB part # for the ’98 model struts is: KYB-335037. For ’95-’96 the part # is: KYB-236007. There is no known part # for the '97 year. ’99 models should be the same as ’98, but there could be slight differences, so do the research before buying.

Where to buy?

Summit Racing seems to have the best deal on GR-2 struts. They also sell the strut mount/bearing kit, which you’ll want to buy along with the struts. The GR-2s (KYB-335037) are $69.88 each, and the mount kits (KYB-SM5276) are $51.39 each at the time of this write-up. You’ll need two struts and two kits for the job, which will total around $270 including tax and shipping.

Tools needed for the job:

You will need:

- PB Blaster lubricating penetrant
- 3/8” & 1/2” ratchets
- 3/4”, 10 mm, 15 mm, & 24 mm sockets (deep well recommended)
- 24 mm wrench
- 6 mm Allen key
- torque wrenches rated to 13, 35, & 136 lb-ft
- hammer
- flathead screw driver
- spring compressor (can be borrowed for $50 deposit at most auto parts stores)
- several 2x6” wood blocks
- hydraulic jack
- (2) jack stand supports


It’s also a good idea to have a spotlight and extension cord around in case the project runs longer than expected, and a friend with a car can come in handy, as your ride will be completely out of commission during the install. And while a 6-pack of your favorite alcoholic beverage would normally be recommended, it is better to pass on that for this job. You want to be double sure to have all of your faculties when working around compressed springs.

Installing the struts…

The job should take about 4 hours, but allow 6. A good way to work is to do everything in tandem fashion between the driver and passenger sides. For each step, when you do something to one side, do it on the other as well - assume each step represents doing both sides of the car. This should make things go much more smoothly, you won’t forget any steps along the way, and there will be less chance of you only getting one strut finished. Because of this, the pictures below are taken from both the left and right sides of the car, so if something looks reversed, you know why.

STEP 1: Park the car on a level surface and engage the parking brake. Carefully remove the front center caps and break loose all front wheel nuts.

STEP 2: Using a 15 mm socket, remove the 3 strut mount bolts from the top of the strut. The bolts are located under the hood and above the wheels. At this time, do not remove the covered nut at the center of the strut. Note: '96 and earlier models have 3 nuts on top instead of bolts.



STEP 3: Jack up the front end of the car and support with jack stands. You only need to raise the car enough so that the wheels can be removed. Although it’s not a good idea to raise the car using any location other than the recommended jack points, it’s okay to support the vehicle from the cradle (frame near the control arms) if you spread out the load so that nothing gets bent. Using a wooden block between the jack stand and the car is one way of doing this. Be sure to let the control arms hang free.



STEP 4: Remove the wheel nuts and front wheels.

STEP 5: Disconnect the ABS speed sensor connector and, using a flathead driver, remove the clip from the bracket as indicated below: Spray the two large knuckle bolts and nuts with PB Blaster. Also spray the two small screws holding the brake and ABS sensor lines to the strut.




STEP 6: Using a 10 mm socket, remove the bolts securing the brake line and ABS speed sensor brackets to the strut.



STEP 7: Insert blocks of wood under the brake rotors to support the steering knuckle. This is for when the knuckle bolts are removed, so it won't won’t fall under its weight. If you don’t do this, you risk damaging a ball joint or drive axle.



STEP 8: Remove the knuckle nuts with a 24 mm socket. These are torqued on pretty well, so might require some force to break loose. A strong arm or an air impact wrench may come in handy here.



STEP 9: Keeping the knuckle nuts threaded onto the bolt, unscrew them out to the very end, then use a hammer to pound the knuckle bolts out by tapping the nuts. When you've pounded them out, remove the nuts, and the bolts should slide right out. Note: the knuckle bolts on the '98 are splined into the knuckle and WILL NOT TURN. If you try to torque on them, you will break either the knuckle, the bolts, the splines, or the tool you are using. Note: bolts on '96 and earlier models are threaded, not splined, so you'll need to turn them out (could GM try any harder to confuse us? No, this small detail isn't mentioned in the shop manual).



STEP 10: Remove the old strut and spring assemblies. Place them on something other than the ground so the coils aren’t damaged – remember, you’ll be putting those back on the car.



STEP 11: Now for the fun part - take the spring compressor and secure each half to a side of the spring. You’ll find that the strut, mount plates, and insulators will get in the way, so try to get each half as close to 180Ί apart as you can. Take care to avoid damaging the rubber insulators, as they will get reused. Using a ratchet or air wrench (recommended), tighten the tool to compress the coil. Be sure to do this evenly, switching frequently from one side to the other (you don’t want the spring bending like a slinky). A third hand may be helpful to hold the assembly as you compress the coil. Stop compressing once the large washer under the nut becomes loose at the top end of the assembly.

CAUTION: UNDERSTAND THE COIL IS UNDER EXTREME COMPRESSION. ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION AND CONSTANTLY OBSERVE THE SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL TO BE SURE IT ISN’T SLIPPING OFF THE COIL OR MALFUCTIONING IN ANY WAY. ALWAYS POSITION YOURSELF, OTHERS, AND ANYTHING OF IMPORTANCE AWAY FROM THE DIRECTIONAL AXIS OF THE COIL. THINK OF COMPRESSING A SPRING AS SIMILAR TO COCKING A BIDIRECTIONAL CANNON. RESPECT IT AND BE SAFE!



STEP 12: With the spring still compressed, remove the rubber dust cover and unscrew the nut from the top of the strut. You’ll need to use a 6 mm Allen key and a 24 mm wrench for this. Once off, remove the metal washer, strut mount/bearing, rubber ring & spring seat, strut, rubber bumper, and shield. Discard all of these parts accept for the shield, rubber bumper, spring seat, metal washer, and dust cover. Do not discard the rubber spring insulators. Try to leave the upper one on the end of the coil if possible (unless replacing). The lower one will probably come off with the strut. The insulators will hold the imprint of the spring, the strut, and the spring seat so that spring realignment will be much easier when installing the new strut. Keep passenger and driver side insulators with their corresponding springs and seats. See the photo and diagram below. The spring seat and rubber ring are not shown in the photo, and the ring is not in the diagram, but it is included in the kit and is yellow/black in color.





STEP 13: With the spring still compressed, transfer the specified components from the old struts to the new ones: reused parts include spring insulators, shield, rubber bumper, spring seat, metal washer, and dust cover. Replace the mount/bearing and rubber ring with the new ones in the kit. Make sure to reassemble everything with the spring and new strut exactly the way it came off. Take note of how the left and right side mounts are in relation to the spring seat, and use the spring insulators to guide you in positioning the spring, strut, and spring seat. A new nut comes with the new KYB strut – be sure to use it, as the threads are different from the OEM version. If you’re using the correct nut, and it won’t go on, you may need to tighten the spring compressor a little to expose more thread. Here’s a picture comparing the old and new struts before reassembly:



STEP 14: After every component is in place, and the nut is on the strut, you can release the coil’s compression by loosening the spring compressor tool until it can be removed. Below are the two assemblies ready to go back on the car. Wiping the shield clean on the driver side assembly is one way to keep from mixing them up.



STEP 15: Reinstall the new assembly in place, aligning the two “teets” into their holes at the top. Thread one of the strut mount bolts into the top to support the strut while you align the two knuckle bolts at the bottom. It may help to have a second person up top to help you do this. Note: '96 and earlier models have 3 studs built into the strut that recieve nuts up top. Same idea, different method. Once the knuckle bolts are aligned, tap them in with a hammer:



STEP 16: Thread the knuckle nuts onto the bolts and torque to 136 lb-ft. Reinstall the remaining 2 strut mount bolts on top. You may need to pry the strut with a screw driver or ratchet handle to get the holes to line up. Tighten the mount bolts to 35 lb-ft. Reinstall the brake and ABS sensor lines and tighten the screws to 13 lb-ft. Reattach the ABS speed sensor clip and plug in the connector.



STEP 17: Replace the wheels and lower the vehicle. Torque wheel nuts to 100 lb-ft and replace caps.

STEP 18: With the weight of the car now compressing the springs, the nut on top of each strut will probably be loose. Pop the hood and tighten each nut so that the washer and strut cannot move. Don’t forget to put the rubber dust covers back on when you're done!



STEP 19: You should have a front-end alignment done as soon as possible. It is probable that replacing the struts will throw off the suspension geometry a bit, so get it taken care of prompty and your tires will thank you. Most dealerships charge about $65 for this service.

Enjoy the new ride!!!

_________________
'98 SC Riviera • 268k miles • 298 HP/370 TQ • 0-60: 5.79s • ET: 13.97 @ 99.28 • 4087 lb • 20.1 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:30
3.4" pulley • AL104 plugs • 180Ί t-stat • FWI w/K&N • 1.9:1 rockers • OR pushrods • LS6 valve springs • SLP headers • ZZP fuel rails
KYB GR2 struts • MaxAir shocks • Addco sway bars • UMI bushings • GM STB • Enkei 18" EV5s w/ Dunlop DZ101s • F-body calipers
EBC bluestuff/Hawk HP plus • SS lines • Brembo slotted discs • DHP tuned • Aeroforce • Hidden Hitch


'05 GTO • 49k miles • 0-60: 4.8s • 16.9 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:26
Because fun
Back to top Go down
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/657082/4
1998 Riv
Expert
avatar

Name : Dave
Age : 57
Location : In The AZ Oven
Joined : 2007-01-17
Post Count : 4502
Merit : 44

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Wed Jan 17, 2007 3:46 pm

I LOVE this write-up! Thanks for putting it up here. I've got GR-2's on the bench, hope to install early summer along with my Addco sway bars.
Back to top Go down
98riv
Moderator


Location : USA
Joined : 2007-01-14
Post Count : 953
Merit : 30

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Wed Jan 17, 2007 4:00 pm

Great write up! Is anyone going to do a write up for the sway bars?
Back to top Go down
1998 Riv
Expert
avatar

Name : Dave
Age : 57
Location : In The AZ Oven
Joined : 2007-01-17
Post Count : 4502
Merit : 44

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Wed Jan 17, 2007 4:10 pm

I haven't heard that anyone has done an install yet. In fact, Jason is the only one who seems to have received BOTH bars. Still waiting for my rear.
Back to top Go down
CeeKay
Amateur
avatar

Name : Chris
Age : 36
Location : Port St. Lucie, FL
Joined : 2007-03-16
Post Count : 47
Merit : 1

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Sat Apr 07, 2007 6:19 am

What are us 97' owners to do?? What can be that different?
Back to top Go down
http://www.facebook.com/therealceekay
AA
Administrator
avatar

Name : Aaron
Age : 40
Location : C-bus, Ohio
Joined : 2007-01-13
Post Count : 18310
Merit : 239

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Sat Apr 07, 2007 10:34 am

I'm not sure, but if anyone wants my old strut to compare the design to theirs, I'd gladly ship it out if you go halves on shipping.

_________________
'98 SC Riviera • 268k miles • 298 HP/370 TQ • 0-60: 5.79s • ET: 13.97 @ 99.28 • 4087 lb • 20.1 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:30
3.4" pulley • AL104 plugs • 180Ί t-stat • FWI w/K&N • 1.9:1 rockers • OR pushrods • LS6 valve springs • SLP headers • ZZP fuel rails
KYB GR2 struts • MaxAir shocks • Addco sway bars • UMI bushings • GM STB • Enkei 18" EV5s w/ Dunlop DZ101s • F-body calipers
EBC bluestuff/Hawk HP plus • SS lines • Brembo slotted discs • DHP tuned • Aeroforce • Hidden Hitch


'05 GTO • 49k miles • 0-60: 4.8s • 16.9 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:26
Because fun
Back to top Go down
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/657082/4
Jack the R
Guru
avatar

Joined : 2007-01-16
Post Count : 6274
Merit : 83

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Wed Sep 05, 2007 11:56 pm

What should the 24 mm nut on top of the strut be torqued too?

The instructions I have don't mention it either.

BTW, do Moog strut mounts count as a mod?
Back to top Go down
AA
Administrator
avatar

Name : Aaron
Age : 40
Location : C-bus, Ohio
Joined : 2007-01-13
Post Count : 18310
Merit : 239

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Thu Sep 06, 2007 9:22 am

I think it varies, I tightened mine just enough so the strut can't move around when you go over bumps (makes noise). If you tighten it too much, it begins to compress the strut, which I'm thinking would lower the car some.

Your Moog strut mounts count if my Moog stabi-bar links can.

_________________
'98 SC Riviera • 268k miles • 298 HP/370 TQ • 0-60: 5.79s • ET: 13.97 @ 99.28 • 4087 lb • 20.1 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:30
3.4" pulley • AL104 plugs • 180Ί t-stat • FWI w/K&N • 1.9:1 rockers • OR pushrods • LS6 valve springs • SLP headers • ZZP fuel rails
KYB GR2 struts • MaxAir shocks • Addco sway bars • UMI bushings • GM STB • Enkei 18" EV5s w/ Dunlop DZ101s • F-body calipers
EBC bluestuff/Hawk HP plus • SS lines • Brembo slotted discs • DHP tuned • Aeroforce • Hidden Hitch


'05 GTO • 49k miles • 0-60: 4.8s • 16.9 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:26
Because fun
Back to top Go down
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/657082/4
Jack the R
Guru
avatar

Joined : 2007-01-16
Post Count : 6274
Merit : 83

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Thu Sep 06, 2007 4:26 pm

Stabi-bar links? Are those the end links on the sway bars? Did you feel a difference?
Back to top Go down
AA
Administrator
avatar

Name : Aaron
Age : 40
Location : C-bus, Ohio
Joined : 2007-01-13
Post Count : 18310
Merit : 239

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Thu Sep 06, 2007 5:02 pm

Yes, they are the Moog links & link bushings. No, I didn't feel a difference. But I could barely tell the difference in the front Addco sway bar, so maybe it's just me.

_________________
'98 SC Riviera • 268k miles • 298 HP/370 TQ • 0-60: 5.79s • ET: 13.97 @ 99.28 • 4087 lb • 20.1 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:30
3.4" pulley • AL104 plugs • 180Ί t-stat • FWI w/K&N • 1.9:1 rockers • OR pushrods • LS6 valve springs • SLP headers • ZZP fuel rails
KYB GR2 struts • MaxAir shocks • Addco sway bars • UMI bushings • GM STB • Enkei 18" EV5s w/ Dunlop DZ101s • F-body calipers
EBC bluestuff/Hawk HP plus • SS lines • Brembo slotted discs • DHP tuned • Aeroforce • Hidden Hitch


'05 GTO • 49k miles • 0-60: 4.8s • 16.9 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:26
Because fun
Back to top Go down
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/657082/4
Jack the R
Guru
avatar

Joined : 2007-01-16
Post Count : 6274
Merit : 83

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Thu Sep 06, 2007 5:51 pm

AA wrote:
Yes, they are the Moog links & link bushings. No, I didn't feel a difference. But I could barely tell the difference in the front Addco sway bar, so maybe it's just me.

I'm not willing to bet much money on that.
Back to top Go down
1998 Riv
Expert
avatar

Name : Dave
Age : 57
Location : In The AZ Oven
Joined : 2007-01-17
Post Count : 4502
Merit : 44

PostSubject: Obsolete parts - Strut Sheild Boots   Tue Sep 25, 2007 2:08 pm

I'm having my KYB struts and new OEM springs installed next Monday. Yesterday I noticed the strut shields(boots) are in pretty tough shape, so I faxed in to my dealer to order me a set, part # 22129699 for 95-98 Riv. Stopped by to pick up the new springs, and he tells me the shields are obsolete now. But he tracked them down someplace in WI, like "Vintage Auto Parts", and will have them in a few days. For those who have replaced their struts, did you get new shields, or were the originals in good shape? 1999 Riv shows a different part #, 22171356, kind of wonder if they interchange with the earlier cars, maybe just a better quality part... The 99's list at GM for $56 EACH. The older ones were cheaper, but I didn't ask what I'll have to pay for them. I get about 25% off list, but they didn't come from GM. puzzled
Back to top Go down
1998 Riv
Expert
avatar

Name : Dave
Age : 57
Location : In The AZ Oven
Joined : 2007-01-17
Post Count : 4502
Merit : 44

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Tue Sep 25, 2007 2:23 pm

It's odd, because the strut part # is the same for 98/99, but the shield part # is different.

Called the parts guy, and the shields will cost me about $32 each, list at $43 each.
Back to top Go down
AA
Administrator
avatar

Name : Aaron
Age : 40
Location : C-bus, Ohio
Joined : 2007-01-13
Post Count : 18310
Merit : 239

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Tue Sep 25, 2007 2:25 pm

I reused the shields, mine were in good shape.

_________________
'98 SC Riviera • 268k miles • 298 HP/370 TQ • 0-60: 5.79s • ET: 13.97 @ 99.28 • 4087 lb • 20.1 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:30
3.4" pulley • AL104 plugs • 180Ί t-stat • FWI w/K&N • 1.9:1 rockers • OR pushrods • LS6 valve springs • SLP headers • ZZP fuel rails
KYB GR2 struts • MaxAir shocks • Addco sway bars • UMI bushings • GM STB • Enkei 18" EV5s w/ Dunlop DZ101s • F-body calipers
EBC bluestuff/Hawk HP plus • SS lines • Brembo slotted discs • DHP tuned • Aeroforce • Hidden Hitch


'05 GTO • 49k miles • 0-60: 4.8s • 16.9 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:26
Because fun
Back to top Go down
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/657082/4
Jack the R
Guru
avatar

Joined : 2007-01-16
Post Count : 6274
Merit : 83

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Tue Sep 25, 2007 2:27 pm

I reused, no problems. My guess is that the new ones will work fine, but it's just a guess.
Back to top Go down
1998 Riv
Expert
avatar

Name : Dave
Age : 57
Location : In The AZ Oven
Joined : 2007-01-17
Post Count : 4502
Merit : 44

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Tue Sep 25, 2007 3:00 pm

Mine are torn open at the ribs, so I didn't really want to re-use them. Surprised how expensive they are.

I'd expect the 99's to work too, since the struts are the same.

Ah, 95-98 lists the bumper below the shield separately, but for 99 there is a footnote that the bumper is included with the shield part #.
Back to top Go down
Mr.Riviera
Expert
avatar

Name : Matthew
Age : 31
Location : Florida
Joined : 2007-01-17
Post Count : 4353
Merit : 99

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Tue Sep 25, 2007 5:22 pm

mine are torn too but i still reused them. i dont think new ones will make much of a difference. did you get new bearings too?

_________________
1996 with 244k miles, L32 4" FWI -> ported N* -> Ported Gen V w/3.0" Pulley, Stage 3 Phenolic I/C, ZZP FMHE, 1.84 RR, Headers and 3" pipe to mufflers, F-body brakes, and lowered on Eibachs.
Back to top Go down
1998 Riv
Expert
avatar

Name : Dave
Age : 57
Location : In The AZ Oven
Joined : 2007-01-17
Post Count : 4502
Merit : 44

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Tue Sep 25, 2007 5:34 pm

Yep, got the struts and mounting kits from Summit.
Back to top Go down
Jack the R
Guru
avatar

Joined : 2007-01-16
Post Count : 6274
Merit : 83

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Tue Sep 25, 2007 11:22 pm

Mr.Riviera wrote:
mine are torn too but i still reused them.

Be ready to do this expensive repair again.
Back to top Go down
T Riley
Guru
avatar

Name : Travis
Age : 27
Location : Your wife's box
Joined : 2007-02-08
Post Count : 5125
Merit : 9

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Mon Oct 22, 2007 11:13 pm

AA i need help ASAP......... ok i bought the sensitrac struts........ and i got the springs comppressed on and ready to install back on the car....... BUT im having a heck of a time getting them lined up in the holes ,,, the wheel hub/rotor doest move too much for me ........... how hard was it for you????? welll any more help with getting them put back in would be appreciated greatly thankss.....
Back to top Go down
http://www.rivperformance.com
AA
Administrator
avatar

Name : Aaron
Age : 40
Location : C-bus, Ohio
Joined : 2007-01-13
Post Count : 18310
Merit : 239

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Tue Oct 23, 2007 1:20 am

Not sure what's hard about it. Mine just went right in with a few taps from the hammer. You're talking about the two knuckle bolts at the bottom, right?

_________________
'98 SC Riviera • 268k miles • 298 HP/370 TQ • 0-60: 5.79s • ET: 13.97 @ 99.28 • 4087 lb • 20.1 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:30
3.4" pulley • AL104 plugs • 180Ί t-stat • FWI w/K&N • 1.9:1 rockers • OR pushrods • LS6 valve springs • SLP headers • ZZP fuel rails
KYB GR2 struts • MaxAir shocks • Addco sway bars • UMI bushings • GM STB • Enkei 18" EV5s w/ Dunlop DZ101s • F-body calipers
EBC bluestuff/Hawk HP plus • SS lines • Brembo slotted discs • DHP tuned • Aeroforce • Hidden Hitch


'05 GTO • 49k miles • 0-60: 4.8s • 16.9 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:26
Because fun
Back to top Go down
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/657082/4
T Riley
Guru
avatar

Name : Travis
Age : 27
Location : Your wife's box
Joined : 2007-02-08
Post Count : 5125
Merit : 9

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Tue Oct 23, 2007 3:14 pm

AA wrote:
Not sure what's hard about it. Mine just went right in with a few taps from the hammer. You're talking about the two knuckle bolts at the bottom, right?

gottem close but had to head to school......... will EASILY finish tonite grimace

thanks anyways AA..................... YOUR A pimp lol
Back to top Go down
http://www.rivperformance.com
AA
Administrator
avatar

Name : Aaron
Age : 40
Location : C-bus, Ohio
Joined : 2007-01-13
Post Count : 18310
Merit : 239

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Wed Oct 24, 2007 10:47 am

Let us know how it goes... and NO homework until you finish the car.

_________________
'98 SC Riviera • 268k miles • 298 HP/370 TQ • 0-60: 5.79s • ET: 13.97 @ 99.28 • 4087 lb • 20.1 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:30
3.4" pulley • AL104 plugs • 180Ί t-stat • FWI w/K&N • 1.9:1 rockers • OR pushrods • LS6 valve springs • SLP headers • ZZP fuel rails
KYB GR2 struts • MaxAir shocks • Addco sway bars • UMI bushings • GM STB • Enkei 18" EV5s w/ Dunlop DZ101s • F-body calipers
EBC bluestuff/Hawk HP plus • SS lines • Brembo slotted discs • DHP tuned • Aeroforce • Hidden Hitch


'05 GTO • 49k miles • 0-60: 4.8s • 16.9 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:26
Because fun
Back to top Go down
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/657082/4
T Riley
Guru
avatar

Name : Travis
Age : 27
Location : Your wife's box
Joined : 2007-02-08
Post Count : 5125
Merit : 9

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:33 pm

AA wrote:
Let us know how it goes... and NO homework until you finish the car.

EASILY finished last nite............ if i were to do it again........ it would take me 1.5 hours MAX..................maybe its just cus it was my first time using a spring commpressor that i was told could rip my head off....... idk................ but now i have to go to tires plus to get er' aligned............. but it handles very similar to a Ferrari grimace grimace











eehhhhh no rolleyes
Back to top Go down
http://www.rivperformance.com
AA
Administrator
avatar

Name : Aaron
Age : 40
Location : C-bus, Ohio
Joined : 2007-01-13
Post Count : 18310
Merit : 239

PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   Wed Oct 24, 2007 4:06 pm

So it handles better now, right?

_________________
'98 SC Riviera • 268k miles • 298 HP/370 TQ • 0-60: 5.79s • ET: 13.97 @ 99.28 • 4087 lb • 20.1 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:30
3.4" pulley • AL104 plugs • 180Ί t-stat • FWI w/K&N • 1.9:1 rockers • OR pushrods • LS6 valve springs • SLP headers • ZZP fuel rails
KYB GR2 struts • MaxAir shocks • Addco sway bars • UMI bushings • GM STB • Enkei 18" EV5s w/ Dunlop DZ101s • F-body calipers
EBC bluestuff/Hawk HP plus • SS lines • Brembo slotted discs • DHP tuned • Aeroforce • Hidden Hitch


'05 GTO • 49k miles • 0-60: 4.8s • 16.9 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:26
Because fun
Back to top Go down
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/657082/4
Sponsored content




PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts   

Back to top Go down
 
Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts
View previous topic View next topic Back to top 
Page 1 of 7Go to page : 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7  Next
 Similar topics
-
» Write-Up: Installing KYB GR-2 Struts
» Write-Up: Installing a Front Strut Tower Brace (STB)
» Write-Up: Installing Glasspack Mufflers
» Write-Up: Installing Rockers, Valve Springs, & Push Rods
» Write-Up: Installing SLP Exhaust Headers

Permissions in this forum:You cannot reply to topics in this forum
Riviera Performance ::   General Tech :: Brakes & Suspension-
Jump to: