92 riviera odometer

Ok my 95 riv just died ( the sc and tranny went within 2 days of each other) so I'm buying a 92 riv for CHEAP. The odometer only reads 70000 miles, which is very low. However, I know these models have a digital odometer. Is it possible, or likely, that the odometer froze, or was tampered with? I'm buying it from a rather shady dealership. Thanks.

Have a look at this site, then decide for yourself:

http://www.allproducts.com/search/search.cgi?q=odometer%20adjustment

Albertj

Chances it would read exactly 70,000 from normal driving is slim to none. I would guess it was set to that number.

How do you know the SC failed? It's not a common thing to have happen.

The Instrument panel cluster does not store the mileage, it just displays it from either the body control module (BCM) or powertrain computer module (PCM). Off the top of my head I can't remember which.

So, regardless of suspected tampering (and I'm sure you know this already) check other tell-tale signs of higher mileage...a couple of examples:

Demand that the shady dealer provide you with a CARFAX or similar report.

Under carriage & body rust. These cars normally don't show rust in these areas until well over 150k miles unless they were in a major flood or accident and not properly repaired.

Radiator hoses, brake parts, spark plug wires, original or replacements? At 70k, these items tend to be original if it was a daily driver...at around 100+k they tend to have been replaced.

Bumper & side chrome. Some spidering will normally only appear well over 70k.

Even if the car was minimumly maintained, the 3800 in a 92 riv just refuses to die!

I have 145+k and 123+k miles on my two and they run almost like new.

Just a few thoughts and my opinion...

My '92 still RAN great at 216K miles, but the rest of it looked bad enough that it wasn't worth fixing up. I would like to get another one some day, I like the '89-'93 body style!

Ship wrote:

The Instrument panel cluster does not store the mileage, it just displays it from either the body control module (BCM) or powertrain computer module (PCM). Off the top of my head I can't remember which.

So, regardless of suspected tampering (and I'm sure you know this already) check other tell-tale signs of higher mileage...a couple of examples:

Demand that the shady dealer provide you with a CARFAX or similar report.

Under carriage & body rust. These cars normally don't show rust in these areas until well over 150k miles unless they were in a major flood or accident and not properly repaired.

Radiator hoses, brake parts, spark plug wires, original or replacements? At 70k, these items tend to be original if it was a daily driver...at around 100+k they tend to have been replaced.

Bumper & side chrome. Some spidering will normally only appear well over 70k.

Even if the car was minimumly maintained, the 3800 in a 92 riv just refuses to die!

I have 145+k and 123+k miles on my two and they run almost like new.

Just a few thoughts and my opinion...

Good advice. Also look at the brake pedal rubber pad, see how worn it is. If it looks new, it's probably actual miles. If it is very worn, it's likely got a lot more...

deekster_caddy wrote:

Ship wrote:

The Instrument panel cluster does not store the mileage, it just displays it from either the body control module (BCM) or powertrain computer module (PCM). Off the top of my head I can't remember which.

So, regardless of suspected tampering (and I'm sure you know this already) check other tell-tale signs of higher mileage...a couple of examples:

Demand that the shady dealer provide you with a CARFAX or similar report.

Under carriage & body rust. These cars normally don't show rust in these areas until well over 150k miles unless they were in a major flood or accident and not properly repaired.

Radiator hoses, brake parts, spark plug wires, original or replacements? At 70k, these items tend to be original if it was a daily driver...at around 100+k they tend to have been replaced.

Bumper & side chrome. Some spidering will normally only appear well over 70k.

Even if the car was minimally maintained, the 3800 in a 92 riv just refuses to die!

I have 145+k and 123+k miles on my two and they run almost like new.

Just a few thoughts and my opinion...

Good advice. Also look at the brake pedal rubber pad, see how worn it is. If it looks new, it's probably actual miles. If it is very worn, it's likely got a lot more...

Ummm.... Derek, don't you think the brake pedal pad is pretty easy to replace. That is, it's a good clue BUT a shyster with true larceny in their heart could spring for the $20 pad if it meant pulling off a $1500 increase in the car price.

Ship: If you are serious about buying the car but doubtful, why not ask the dealer to let you take it to a Goodyear or Firestone or other mechanic that has a diagnostic machine that will do a cylinder balance test, and as well a mechanic that knows how to do a leakdown test. For $50 to $100 the mechanic should "scope" the car (run it through the machine's diagnostic series including the balance test) and do the leakdown test manually and tell you the results.

if the body of the car is in good shape, the cylinders are within ~10% of each other and at least 100 PSI the engine is probably sound. If the slushbox shofts at the right speeds on acceleration it's probably OK (hey it is a used car). As for the rest (brakes, hubs/bearings. steering, switchgear, body accessories) it is a used car and you have to satisfy yourself that the stuff works... and anyway by and large it's all fixable although on a Riv it can get kind of expensive.

The other thing is it could be legit. After all, after a certain age I think ~5 or 6 years, dealers do not want such cars on their lots no matter how good they look and run. Mustang is a popular car and there are a lot around. Some of them are in pretty good shape (the 6 cyl cars driven like creampuffs, often by single women, tend to be in good shape except for missed maintenance items). How many '92 mustangs you see on Ford dealer lots? One thing that makes Buicks interesting as used cars is that the first owners tend NOT to thrash them (unlike Pontiacs, whose first owners tend to drive them pretty hard). Some first owners tend to stretch or miss scheduled maintenance but the pointers Deekster gave you will help you catch that. Except I am a little surprised he did not suggest opening the radiator while car is cold and look for crud or oil in the coolant. Or to squeeze the tail and exhaust pipes with your hands to see if they've gone soft.

Anyway - I suspect the seller is unlikely to object if you ask to take the car to the closest ASE-certified mechanic to check it's road worthiness and driveability.

Good luck.

Albertj

albertj wrote:

deekster_caddy wrote:

Also look at the brake pedal rubber pad, see how worn it is. If it looks new, it's probably actual miles. If it is very worn, it's likely got a lot more...

Ummm.... Derek, don't you think the brake pedal pad is pretty easy to replace. That is, it's a good clue BUT a shyster with true larceny in their heart could spring for the $20 pad if it meant pulling off a $1500 increase in the car price.

I suppose what I really meant was if it looks 'almost new', or 'very slightly used'. If it looks 'brand new', it's a giveaway that something's up. Most shyster dealers will NOT spend $20 for the brake pedal pad. They won't spend a dime more than they need to!

albertj wrote:

Some first owners tend to stretch or miss scheduled maintenance but the pointers Deekster gave you will help you catch that.

hey, give credit where it's due... these excellent tips were from Ship, not me.

Yes, there were a couple other suggestions to make too, there are a whole ton of tips for inspecting a used car for odd wear and tear. These tips are all good, and only the tip of the iceberg.

It would be great if he lets you take the car for an independent mechanic's evaluation before you commit.

Another good thing to do is remove the oil fill cap from the valve cover and look at what's visible.
If all is clean or if there is whitish foam like crap in there, avoid it if there is.

Justin,
Based on everyone's response/advice, you can tell we've all had our share of the "used car buying" experience...all very good tips...and we all could come up with many more.

One other thing I thought about was that if the 92 riv you're looking at was a one-owner car (carfax will tell), then chances are it was properly maintained. Just remember, in 1992 the Riviera was the most expensive Buick offered...upwards of $30k or more (Reatta was tops until production stopped in 1991). So, most 1st owners were older (late 50's/early 60's) and had their cars maintained at the dealership. 2nd and 3rd owners have a tendency to drive them harder and miss maintenance.

I know this is like 4 months late (LOL), but just wanted to say:

A) thanks for all the good ideas and advice

B) I did buy the car

C) I'm confident that the milage is correct. The cars exterior is pretty beat up. It looks like it's been sitting for a few years. The clearcoat on the paint is blistering pretty bad in some areas and the landau top is all cracked and peeling. The interior is pretty nice, except the leather is similarly dried out and worn. But everything works, and the engine seems very smooth and strong. What I think happened is that an older person owned the car and eventually gave up driving and the car just sat in the yard/driveway. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. It may look rough (it won't get me any dates) but it seems mechanically sound, which is what really matters.

Well congrats on the purchase! I see a lot of that gen Riv driving around here, mostly in nicer shape than the 95-99's I see! Wouldn't mind owning one myself. Maybe in 3 yrs when my daughter wants my 98...

Dave G.,
Of all the auto shows I attend in New England and as a member of both the ROA and BCA in Massachusetts, I've yet to come across one 7th generation (86-93) Riviera other than my wife's and mine. In fact, both our '92's were originally sold by dealers from your part of the US!! Additionally, I rarely come across one at junkyards near me...maybe one very 6mos on average.

Buicks in general are a very popular car in ND. The streets are full of PA's, LeSabres, Century's, even late model Skylarks. And tons of Lucernes now. But oddly there are seldom very many for sale in the newspaper, probably because they are typically such a well-built and reliable car.

I like my 92, I just wish the exterior was in better shape. And I really miss my 95... I've had two 95's actually and I loved them both. The first one was totaled in an accident. Some A-hole blew through a stop sign in his boxtruck and nailed me. I was doing 40 mph. I drove a beater for about a year after that and then I bought my second 95. It had high milage and the tranny and the SC went within a week of each other. I think my next car will be a 95-98 with loowwwww milage (if I can find one). I saw one online in Pennsylvania with like 22k for around 15 grand. If only I had the money, I would have driven down there to get it. My first 95 was my first car, so between the sentimental value and the reliability and overall quality of the car, nothing can beat a 95-98 riv for me.