Write-Up: Custom Rear Adjustment Links

The new adjustment links have been on for a few days, no problems at all so far as I can tell. I haven't had an alignment done and the car doesn't pull to the side when I let go of the wheel. I should have a little toe-in based on the new links being ever-so-slightly longer (maybe) than what the old links were adjusted too, but what is that going to do? Put a little more wear on barely used tires that will age out in a year? I'll get the alignment done when I put new tires on.

BUT - my clunk is still there!

I swapped the shock mounts, but the clunk is still on the passenger side.

I swapped the shocks, but the clunk is still on the passenger side.

I checked for things that could be loose in the trunk - speakers, radio antenna, tail light lens, trunk latch, trunk hinges. It's all tight.

When I had the car jacked up and the wheel off, I shook the control arm good and couldn't find anything wrong with the bushings. I guess I'm going to jack the car up again and check again. Whenever Car Wizard finds a suspension problem, there's a lot of play in the tire. It can't be missed. I know I don't have a problem like that, but I'll check again.

It sounds like the broken sway bar link in this video (start @1:00) -



My sounds seems to be coming from the passenger shock mount area, not from under the car.

What is the top nut on the shock supposed to be torqued too? The FSM left that one out, so I torqued it to 15 ft lbs, like the shock mount nuts. Maybe that's too low.

I had a tech put the shock bushing washers on upside down one time, causing a clunk. Roasted him for it next time I saw him. If those things are on upside down the stud in top of the shock has play in the bushing.

I doublechecked my shock bushing washers, they're on right. I also jacked up the car again and tugged on the wheels. Maybe the passenger hub has a little movement side to side (not top to bottom), but probably not more than it should. I tugged on the sway bar and end links while under it. Everything was tight and the bushings looked good. The clamps didn't budge. I'm really at a loss as to where the clunk is coming from, unless the shock tower bushings need to be torqued higher than 15 ft lbs. It looks like I'm going to be putting up with this clunk until whatever is wearing out wears out enough that I can find it.

The hubs should have NO side to side movement, if they do they're worn enough that you've lost your pre-load and these have to be replaced. but I think you'd have top/bottom movement too if it was the hubs so... might want to double check and confirm that the hub is what's really moving. Could be the lateral links or something else. My rear hubs have not given me any grief in a very, very long time.

The rear shocks bushings have to be torqued enough to cinch the rubber tightly. If the cupped washers (either top or bottom) are upside down, they will torque tightly as measured by a wrench but will still have a lot of play between bushings and washer when set on the ground. And you'll get a clunk. Set the car down on flat ground, normally, and look at the mounts in the trunk (yeah take off and save those big rubber caps). While looking at the mounts, bounce the car a bit. If the washers are in wrong, you'll see the shock stud and bushing bounce around (they shouldn't move at all) and you'll probably hear the clunk if you bounce it hard enough.

Don't ask me how I know he he (but I will tell you: A tech did it once on my car, it took me a while to figure out).