FAQ: Warm/Hot Air on Drivers Side, Cold on Passenger Side

Solving the warm/cold air issue requires access to the actuator mechanisms and vent doors located under the dash. Continue reading for info on fixing this problem. For a more detailed write-up on accessing the HVAC assembly, see this link: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t2500-write-up-hvac-assembly#27279

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Original post:

Well today in Indiana it was like 80 degrees........so i decided to turn my ac on......it got cold on the passenger side but on my side it was hot as hell........why is that? and is it a big problem and is it going to cost alot.........

HELP!

Check underneath the black plastic shroud by your feet. You will see whats called a vent door actuator. It has a green and white sticker on it and is located close to the center console about 12 inches south of the gas pedal. Cycle your AC and watch and see if the actuator moves at all. If it doesn't, there is your problem. You can find them at a junkyard or get raped at a store, your choice. Hope this helps.

Thanks I will check it out!

Email Ed Morad, he had one for me. If the search function on regalgs.org is working you can google for my thread. I took lots of pics of the repair process. Not a writeup but it might help.

thanks!

I'm going to need my ac when it gets hot out........

Yeah I know the end of the year is savage without AC. You go anywhere without it and you arrive wet and sticky.

Blowin95 wrote:

Check underneath the black plastic shroud by your feet. You will see whats called a vent door actuator. It has a green and white sticker on it and is located close to the center console about 12 inches south of the gas pedal. Cycle your AC and watch and see if the actuator moves at all. If it doesn't, there is your problem. You can find them at a junkyard or get raped at a store, your choice. Hope this helps.

I had the same problem on the passenger side, found the actuator, took it apart and got it working.

ok on my 95 the heat only works on the drivers side and when its on the passenger side is pumping out cold air like outside temp (high 30's low 40's) witch kinda pisses me off i cant get my car to warm up just to pump ambiant air in and half is warm for a lil then cold just wondering if anyone has any ideas oh and i just got the ac condenser (?) replaced cuz it wasnt working right and tearing up my belt

i dont no how its poss to have belt problems b/c of the condenser? i would check the t-stat, and then the heater. then unhock the lines under the hood for the heating and hock a hose up to it and flush it out.

I am having the same exact problem! Heat pumps out the driver side floor and the driver side half of the defrost vents for the windshield. The passenger side gets regular air/cool blowing and so does the passenger side of the defrost vents. Really wierd.

I replaced the thermostat today just for the hell of it. Still no heat on the passenger side. Can someone offer some advice. It has nothing to do with the heater core being plugged for sure.

I am wondering if there is a blend door or if that passenger side control button on the dash heat/ac controls or on the passenger side door has anything to do with it. Wondering if it can be bypassed...

Anyone that knows for sure??

There is a blend door motor behind the glove box that causes that. You can take it off and manually turn it to let hot air come through til you get a replacement.

You'll have to remove your glove box, remove a couple screws that hold two large computer modules and let them lay on the floor. In the red circle area is where the motor is located. After you remove it , the white plastic rod sticking out will let you move it manually til you get a replacement. This is on a 95 model.

Denny,

Thanks alot....exactly what I needed!!! Also, I don't seem to be getting any warm air through the vents on the dash panel. Wonder if another door is closed or a motor is shot. Is there a fuse for the heater door motors? My heat and blower work fine; just seems that a door or two may not be functioning. Thanks alot man!

it was attached to the belt could be the belt was just shot also but i know my condesner or whatever ac thing that is on the belt was shot everytime i turned it on then off it sounded like a dyeing cat got sucked into the supercharger balls first

if anyone is online i have a problem my 1995 buick riviera is blowing out hot heat on the drivers side and cold air on the passenger side is this a easy fix has someone seen this b4 let me know please

mixxer door servo..if you pull the glove compartment out you can see it....easy fix,but you will want to find a junk yard one...dealer wants over 200 bucks for a new one.

thanks man i found it it says on another post long as u turn it it will stay like that til u get a new one its kinda cold to go to the junk yard so imma wait it out

I was able to take the servo apart and fix mine, the motor was stuck.

Mine was on the driver's side, got a replacement from Ed Morad for $20.

so if mine is blowing AC on the drivers side and heat on the passenger side, would the servo activate the compressor? i have it unplugged, but natrally direct air from outside is cold as hell! so help me out

Even when the weather was warm, heat, defrost and auto air on the passenger side of the car is ice cold. Ive checked all the fuses, I don't know what else to check. Please help defrost my friends!

You should have a second air mix actuator. One for each side. Pull your glove box and try to see if it's visible and moving.

Kathi, your post was merged to this thread. Check dennycrane's instruction above. Good luck!

how do i take the glove box out

Hello,
Last week I bought a 1997 Riviera SC. Love the car, but when I first got it, the driver side vents would blow warmer air than those in the passenger side (I didn't touch the passenger side controller). The lighting of the panel got very dim at times, but would be bright every now and then.

Now all I get is hot air coming out of the vents, with cooler air in the driver's side (it's 80F outside).

I've been doing some reading on this board and looks like bad solder joints in the control module would be the likely culprit. Before I start taking things apart, any suggestions?

Thanks,
Mikel