Write-Up: Walbro 255 lph Fuel Pump - Series I

Step 1: Strip out all carpet int he trunk

Step 2 : remove the seven 10mm screws that hold on the access panel

Step 3: unhook the connection to the fuel pump canister

Step 4: remove the canister from the tank. make sure not to just rip it out.




Step 5:next after you get the canister out, it is time to take it apart

Step 6: look on the bottom, there will be a Black braket, that holds on the canister filter. un hook the braket




Step 7: now undo the filter. i used a small screw driver with a flat tip and pried it up carefully




Step 8: now unhook the take level thing, do not unhook the wires


Step 9: now unhook the canister body, from mounting stubs. i used the same small screw driver and pried them up be careful



Step 10: now unhook the pump electrical connection


Step 11: it should look similar to this now


Step 12: look in side the body if there is dirty clean it out ASAP


Step 13: now remove the stock pump


Step 14: DO NOT REMOVE STOCK VENTURI . i did and it fuck everything up

Step 15: cut the venturi on the WALBRO, leave the stock one alone. cut the new one about till its 3" long.then using the supplied hardware. clamp the new to the old.

Step 16: now attach then new fuel filter, from the kit.make sure that things on tight. now reverse the install.

Step 17: now put the rubber/foam seal around the pump. make sure to lube it up good. with ky, i mean vasaline. . and after its on good and even, install in to the case. button everything up. attach all electrical.

Step 18: now installing the hole in the trunk make sure not to force it in(LMAO), you need to go easy. rotate it.

Step 19: After its in now hold it in with the canister clamp ring thing. GM P/N 25691383

Step 20: after you hook up ur connection(fuel lines, electrical ) you done. put ur key in prime the fuel system crank her over and ur done

if you have any questions PM me or just ask i will help you out the best i can.

Nice write up. If it is ok with you, I will add it to the Riviera website.

go for it, if you need more info ask. all i want is some recognition on the site

palermocorey90 wrote:

go for it, if you need more info ask. all i want is some recognition on the site

I will try to add it to the site in a few days. I will be pretty busy the next few weeks, so I might not be able to do it right away. You will definately get credit for your work.

take ur time

Verry nice write up.

dude, you're my hero! , some people mention noise with the Walbro 255 pump, have you noticed anything?

So it comes out from the trunk... NICE

Karma wrote:

dude, you're my hero! , some people mention noise with the Walbro 255 pump, have you noticed anything?

ever herd a race prime its engine. right there you go. i made a video i will up load it

turtleman wrote:

So it comes out from the trunk... NICE

yes you need to remove the carpet and the spare and all the panels, and there SHOULD be an access hole

Very cool!

Anyone know if the Series I has the same fuel pump set-up as Series II?

AA wrote:

Very cool!

Anyone know if the Series I has the same fuel pump set-up as Series II?

i don't believe so, but the install is the same

It is the same setup on my 96

Kudos dude for maklng the weite up. I tried when I did mine but I botched up my sending unit and ended up not taking pictures.

i tried to stay calm when i was doing, i had to stop many time to calm down cuz my POed level was getting up there. but in the end i got it done. not bad for my first time

BTW as a heads up to any one want to do this the BLACK WIRE GOES TO THE BLACK WIRE, RED WIRE GOES TO THE GRAY WIRE

Great writeup. Im going to attempt this next weekend and am a little nervous. Any idea if this kit here :
Link
eliminates the need to mod anything or will I still be cutting the venturi on the walbro.
Also, with the fueling issues Ive been having I was thinking of purchasing this:
Link
I dont have alot of mods and dont really plan to do alot more, maybe a cam or lifters (maybe). Think the 42lb injectors is overkill?
TIA

From what I've read, the 42.5 lb injectors are overkill until you're running smaller than a 3.2" pulley.

This is a supplement to this writeup. I finally put this thing in my 97 as well as replaced the fuel level sensor. This really really sucked to do for me so that's a warning I guess.

First off, here's the hole...





As you can see, it looks every bit as horrible as I feared.
I would say PBblaster is a must and a new lock ring ready to go.



old and new lock ring (gm calls it a locking cam for some reason)



Ok the fuel assembly is out so you can clearly see the tabs that hold the lock ring. Perhaps hours of waiting and more PBblaster would have broken that out but I ended up bending out those five tabs a little to help get it out, which I bent back into original position before I replaced the assembly. The usual screwdriver and hammer didn't do it for me. In that picture, you can also see the square-cut seal that seals the fuel assembly to the tank. Be careful not to drop that in the tank while fiddling the assembly in and out.

Now bare pump pics (oem vs walbro)

















That pic is how the factory pump is plumed. You can see it has the corrugated hose and then a seperate port for the venturi path, which has the little hard vinyl hose.

These pictures show how it needs to be set up with the walbro pump..







And now the ugly...



I was already pissed at how much of a pain it was getting the thing out of the tank but when this happened, I got the fevery "I'm fucked" feeling when I did this. I tried removing the hose from the oem pump gently. It just wasn't happening. So I'll say in addition to the lock ring, make sure you have a new hose for this thing if you didn't buy a brand new kit that has it. ZZP sells the currugated hose individually. Instead of waiting a couple days for a piece of slurpee straw, I went ahead and cut off the mangled end of my hose and forced it onto the pump. With the clamp on, it's tight and not stressed so it should be good but I still don't like it. As well the vinyl venturi hose gave me problems. It was slightly damaged coming off the old pump but I don't see any obvious way to remove that from its other end at the bottom of the strainer so I also had to just make it work. It went onto the fitting and stayed without much of a problem though.

That's the old and new fuel level sender.
That's a brainless fix once the pump's out. You just have to wire it.

First off thanks to palermocorey90, turtleman for this thread, info and pics. I am posting this to ask if when changing a fuel pump, would the area indicated in the pic below get scratched or damage in any way. The reason I ask is because my car stalled on me a few times on the way home on the weekend and had to have it towed. I thought about towing it home but I decided to tow it to a dealership instead. I am not the most patient guy and both palermocorey90, turtleman indicated that this job almost made them lose their cool. Of course I had thought that since I had never changed my fuel pump that I should probably change it soon and I intended to, but it failed before I had a chance. The point is, the dealership heavily scratched up my car in the red are indicated below and I can't understand what they were doing. I am currently having major issues with them in trying too get it fixed. They claim that they wouldn't have had to do anything with this area. But I had indicated to the Service Advisor that I had recently painted the car and was hoping that they would do anything they could to protect it.Any help here would be greatly appreciated guys, thanks!

The only reason they would need to be in the area of the fuel filler is to remove and replace some fuel.
Not absolutely necessary to do that unless your tank was full, but who knows.
Otherwise, all access for changing the pump is in the trunk.
Keep pressuring them to fix the paint.
I had mine in a body shop a few months back to replace my drivers side door and paint the left side of car and it came out with new scratches on the right rear quarter panel. They denied doing it but I kept on them and they finally fixed the right side.

Thanks for the support RickW, trying to get these guys to admit that they screwed up your car is like pulling teeth. Although they won't admit that they caused the scratches they said that they would buff it out. But I know that 90% of the scratches will appear gone to the naked eye but 10% will still show and the rest will return after ten washes. I am so pissed that my car when in there without a blemmish and after $1000 for the pump I end with paint damage!!!

Ask them to wet-sand then polish/buff the area. That'll take the scratches out.

If any of the scratches are down to the base metal, they will need repaint. Otherwise a wet sand and buff/polish will do the job.
That's what they did to mine. (wet sand, buff/polish)
I have some door dings on the passenger side that need repairing and have talked to them about fixing these in the near future and they agreed to sand, paint and clearcoat the area that they damaged at that time also.

How long do the stock pumps last? While I've got my carpet out I'm thinking about doing the fuel sending unit, and maybe the pump if there's a significant chance of it going (almost 90,000 miles on it). I won't be building up the engine any time soon, so I might as well stick with the stock pump for now if I can.

Jack the R wrote:

How long do the stock pumps last? While I've got my carpet out I'm thinking about doing the fuel sending unit, and maybe the pump if there's a significant chance of it going (almost 90,000 miles on it). I won't be building up the engine any time soon, so I might as well stick with the stock pump for now if I can.

My stock pump was working fine at ~185,000mi when i switched to the walbro. The strainers were not clogged either. At that point the part that had failed was the fuel level sensor, which I think was bad since I got the car at 140 or 150k