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 ignition switch an key

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Name : Leonard Bernard Rapkins
Age : 81
Location : Monroe NC
Joined : 2010-11-25
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PostSubject: ignition switch an key   ignition switch an key EmptyMon Apr 28, 2014 10:46 am

Just started recently. I put my key in the ignition, turn and nothing, but I do notice the security light on in the l/h small round dial. After about 2 minutes this light goes off and the car will start. Sometimes the no start and security light will do this twice in a row before starting, any ideas please.
Len Rapkins
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Name : Scott
Location : Macomb, Michigan
Joined : 2010-02-24
Post Count : 4314
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PostSubject: Re: ignition switch an key   ignition switch an key EmptyMon Apr 28, 2014 11:39 am

Is the chip in the key worn out or loose?
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Name : Derek
Age : 51
Location : Reading, MA
Joined : 2007-01-31
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PostSubject: Re: ignition switch an key   ignition switch an key EmptyMon Apr 28, 2014 3:17 pm

Does yours have a chip in the key? Try cleaning it. If not, try cleaning the entire key. Something that dries with no residue, like rubbing alcohol. (just do the metal parts)

Otherwise, search the site for something like "passkey", "pass key" "VATS" "security" etc and you will find a lot more info. Somewhere there is a whole thread dedicated to passkey II.
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Name : Rob
Age : 68
Location : South Coast Metro, CA.
Joined : 2014-02-06
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PostSubject: Re: ignition switch an key   ignition switch an key EmptyTue Apr 29, 2014 1:40 am

Hi, Len. There are two conditions where the Passkey system can send the signal to the car's ECM to start. One is normal, where there is no security light. Another is "driver mode" where the light is steady on, indicating that the incorrect resistance from the ignition key has been detected after the correct resistance was detected. Sometimes my security light will go on steady for a few minutes while I'm driving and then go out again for days. It starts normally for now, but the security light tells me a fault has been detected and should be taken care of before a failure.

However, if the last indicator, a flashing security light should occour, the Passkey module has not detected the proper resistance, and so it will not send a signal to the ECM for an engine start. In addition you won't get another chance to start the car for 4 minutes. This is part of the anti-theft system of passkey. But sometimes if you turn off the ignition and leave the keys in, after 4 minutes the security light will turn off long enough for you to try and start the car again.


In my case, the electrical contacts inside the ignition lock cylinder are warn, so a proper resistance is not always being read by the Passkey module. Another common problem with this system is that the small wires from the contacts to the Passkey module simply break from stress over the years. In that case the Passkey module can't detect any resistance from the ignition key at all, the security light will flash, and the engine will not start. The solution in both of these cases is to replace the ignition lock cylinder, and I'm getting ready to do just that on my car. I don't want to get stranded in the boonies.

Here is what I've done so far: First I read the resistance of my ignition key and found a couple of key blanks with the corresponding Passkey number on eBay for about $12 each. Then I purchased an aftermarket ignition lock cylinder on eBay which came with an uncoded master key. I went down to my local locksmith and had him cut the two resister key blanks using the uncoded master key I got with the ignition lock cylinder. Now all I have to do is replace the ignition lock cylinder and use my new ignition keys. The Passkey module will see the same resistance my old keys had, start and run the car as normal. The fix should be good for another 20 years or so.

Of course replacing the ignition lock cylinder has it's own challenges. The steering wheel has to be removed, which requires a special puller and safety procedures for the air bag. Then there are internals that have to be removed to gain access to the torx screw that holds the lock cylinder in place. But you can only do that with another special tool that pushes against a plate that allows you to remove a snap ring from around the steering shaft. Then routing the wires from the new lock cylinder, under the steering column, to the large electrical connector that attaches to the main wire harness sounds like fun too. There is a trick to this last bit though: After you detach the pins from the large electrical connector, tie them to a length of dental floss and pull the wires through the steering column from the top. Then you can use the dental floss to pull the new wires back in the other direction. QED, maybe. We'll see.


The videos above aren't of Rivs, but the procedure is similar except that the multifunction switch on Rivieras is not in the way. That should make the job easier.


I hope this helps. Lots of people in the same boat.

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