KYB front struts for ’97 ???

the biggest thing was taking the slack from the strut shafts that were too long. In the photo below I used simple washers but cleaned it up later by using a solid bar stock of aluminum roughly 1" high with a hole cut in the middle for the shock shaft to fit through. I had to merge a '97 and '98 upper strut assembly ('97 strut mount adn bearings, '98 nylon bumper cut to fit). You will need someone to cut holes larger in the lower strut mounts for camber adjustment but an alignment shop should be able to do that fairly easy. I might be leaving a couple things out but it was done a while ago. Fairly easy and handles great.

Well, my 1997 Riviera is in need of new front struts, so I cheked rockauto.com, and as everyone who own 1997 know, there isn't much to choose from.

So my question is;
which is better for strut replacement, ACDelco #503382 or Monroe #71664 ?

I want to have as firm frontend as possible.
Also I noticed that SACHS offers shock absorber to front axle as #20714A --->

http://webcat.zf-trading.com/index.asp?SPr=1&LASTPAGE=nc2_pdf.asp

I wonder, how do you change shock absorber on this car, which is equipped w/strut assembly?!

To change the shock absorber you need a spring compressor.
Also I would highly recommend replacing springs and upper bearing/ mount assembly and all rubber cushions at the same time.
You can basically build a whole new strut assembly from new parts, then just swap out the old for new.
That is what I did on my car and it made a huge difference in the way the car rode and handled. Is firmer and corners much better than before. The front ride height came up about 2 inches after new springs, etc. That's a good indication that the old ones were worn out.
If you only replace the shocks and leave the old springs in there you won't be happy with the results.
As far as what type/make of shock to use I can only say that I used Monroe's because i got a lifetime warranty with them. But other guys on this site have used KYB's for a firmer ride and seem happy.
The Monroe's with new springs are firm enough for me. They are not too firm yet give a nice ride on the highway.
When you are done replacing all components you will need to have the front end aligned.

Thank you for suggestions.

I meant , that SACHS is offering simply only a shock absorber (which means only tube, without spring plate or lower bracket) NOT a strut, so it's quite strange, because you can't weld spring plate neitger lower mounting brace to it. So what gives?

As for KYB struts, there isn't any for 1997 Riviera (or Aurora)! Neither there other High Performance struts for that specific year. Sad. I think I too go with Monroe and as you suggest, springs too. Otherwise I would love to put german SACHS on this thing, but I doubt that's possible.

You can do KYBs for the '97 with little modification.

i think i asked this before eric so dont get frustrated but what modification do you need to do

98 nylon bumpers, '97 mounts, and either spacers or bushing to take up the extra slack on the strut rod end. You will havee to have someone cut slots in the lower strut mount for alignment- cost me $20.

Well, that's interesting modification for adopting KYBs, but did you mean adopting 1998 Riviera KYBs #335037 or earlier 1996 #236007?

'98's

Thanks ewolfe!

I'm just curious, you use Eibach lowering springs, from Cadillac STS? If so, what year? Summitracing p/n: EIB-3872-140?

And what about upper spring seat/insulator, can I use '97 seats or should I use '98-99 version?

Using the Sachs depends on if you have the original struts - basically you cut the top off the strut tube; it's threaded inside and te Sachs inserts come with (or at least should come with) a nut that secures the insert into the tube.

If the struts have been replaced already then you can't use the inserts.

Albertj

I have searched and not really found the answer to this. I want to lower my 97' rivi with the eibach sts springs. I also need new front struts, the rear has been replaced recently with new delcos. There doesn't seem to be many choices for struts so I thought I would either use monroe or delco. Will these struts be fine with the lowering springs? Someone else will be doing the work so I want to show up with everything I need to do the job. Please let me know what parts I need (bearings, mounts, ect). Thanks.

I know of no reason why those struts won't work with the sts springs.

You also need the strut mounts. I used Moog strut mounts and monroe shocks.

Monroe it is then, what parts do I need to replace when installing the struts? I looked on the rockauto website but have no idea what I need in addition to the strut itself. Please help.

Besides the strut I also got the Moog strut mount, part # k5321. Pricey and you have to buy two of them.

You shouldn't need anything else.

It would be very cool to see end result after istalling Caddy lowering springs... I also wonder how rear air ride shocks will react at lower rearend, will it run air compressor more frequently?

I will hopefully get the car back this week. I will post a pic or two.

Got the car back...Here are a couple of pics with the lowering springs.


Before springs



After springs




Now I have to get back on the interior/stereo install.

when was the pic taken? mine settled some more the next day or so.

looks good! now you got to get some bigger brakes behind those 20's

Wow, that's much better!

I will do this conversion to my '97 someday. For now I float on stock springs. Btw, how's the ride quality is affected in your car? Better or worse?

The ride is much better, but keep in mind I had two worn out hub bearings and struts. I hope the springs settle some. I wouldn't mind the car being a little lower. The pic was taken the day after the springs were installed.

will the sts springs work on a park ave also?

ewolfe0050 wrote:

98 nylon bumpers, '97 mounts, and either spacers or bushing to take up the extra slack on the strut rod end. You will have to have someone cut slots in the lower strut mount for alignment- cost me $20.

Ok, bringing this back up because I think I'm going to be forced to do this mod with the KYB's to accommodate the Eibach's I just bought.

So basically the strut rod it too long for the '97 Riv and needs that spacer to take up the extra length? No problem, I'm sure I can do that.

Next I have to buy bump stops for a '98 Riv? These don't need to be trimmed per the instructions that came with the springs?

The last step has me wondering a little and I need some clarification. What exactly do you mean by "slots". Do you have a picture of this or a better description?

Thanks for any help.

It's been a while since I've done struts, so bear with me -

There are two big fat bolts that hold the strut to the lower suspension. What ewolfe is talking about is a quick-and-dirty alignment technique where the holes in the suspension are elongated out. To align the suspension, the bolts are put back in and one (I assume) is knocked over in the elongated hole until the wheel comes into alignment, then the tech torques the nut down. All that's holding your suspension in alignment is the friction of that nut against the knuckle on the suspension. If that nut should come loose, your alignment could suddenly change, possibly resulting in a wreck.

That's how my mechanic explained it to me. Instead of slotting those holes, he replaced one of the big stock bolts with a "cam bolt," which is a smaller bolt with a little cam on it. You stick that in the hole and turn the bolt until the cam pushes the wheel into alignment. I think they only gave 3-5 degrees max.

IIRC the cam bolts were more like $30-40, and the first tech who tried to align my car with them actually couldn't do it. But my regular mechanic was able to do it.

What I don't know is if cam bolts will provide sufficient adjustment range on a lowered car.

I'm personally leery of the slotting technique, not just because of the possibility of wrecking (which I haven't heard of actually happening yet), but because it's not easy to undo. I think you'd have to find new lower a-arms if you wanted to go back.

are these the cam bolts youre talking about?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/IEC-81280/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/IEC-35440/