everything new but the kitchen sink,,,,,,,still goes dead for no reasons

My 98 has,,,,new maf,,,,cps,,,,,,,plugs and wires,,,,coils and ign mod,,,,,,,,egr,,,,,,,but sometimes it won't restart ,,,,,,or just dies ,,,,,,, cuts out,,,,,,,,, do I really need to replace the cpu now?

are you actively scanning? Any codes?

I would start with scanning to see what's going on.

Ignition Switch. I bet you're losing spark when this happens? Or losing the Injectors? Or both??

What are the sings of a failing cpu?

Well it seems to run ok but when you shut it down ,,,sometimes,,,,,,,,it won't fire,,,,,,,,until it sits for awhile, ,,,,,,,,,,,
now I'm going to discharge the pcm next time and see if this has an effect,,,,,!,,,,

To do this you disconect the negative post ,,,than short out the positive ,,,,,,which clears the memory, ,,,,,correct?

If I'm losing injection is that not the cpu?

So, it just won't restart sometimes then? That's the only thing that's happening? Your first post made it sound like it just quits while running, and then won't restart. I'm taking this as it just dies in traffic...

It has died at a stop light,,,,,,,just quit,,,,,,,,,but restarted immediately,,,,,,.,,.it had hiccuped on the freeway but didn't compleaty quit,,,,,,,,it seems that the problem occurs after I shut it down and come back to restart.,,,,,,,,either in 5 min or sometimes longer.,,,,,,,,,,, now the traction control off has come on and won't shut off sometimes,,,,,,,,this is new,,,,,,,
but it does start when left alone for a period of time,,,,,,.. how does one test the computer? ,,,,,,,can a shop do that in the car or do they need to bench test the circuts.? Hate to junk it out,,,,,,,it has a lot of new parts lol

Can I reset the pcm by pulling the fuse ,,,,,,,and how long must I wait for it to drain out the stored codes before restart.

If it helps, mine did something like this when the crank position sensor went bad. Im more inclined to guess it's the ignition switch as well.

What fuel pressure are you seeing at the rails?

digimi wrote:

It has died at a stop light,,,,,,,just quit,,,,,,,,,but restarted immediately,,,,,,.,,.it had hiccuped on the  freeway but didn't compleaty quit,,,,,,,,it seems that the problem occurs after I shut it down and come back to restart.,,,,,,,,either in 5 min or sometimes longer.,,,,,,,,,,, now the traction control off has come on and won't shut off sometimes,,,,,,,,this is new,,,,,,,
but it does start when left alone for a period of time,,,,,,..  how does one test the computer?  ,,,,,,,can a shop do that in the car or do they need to bench test the circuts.?   Hate to junk it out,,,,,,,it has a lot of new parts lol

Can I reset the pcm by pulling the fuse ,,,,,,,and how long must I wait for it to drain out the stored codes before restart.

IGNITION SWITCH IGNITION SWITCH IGNITION SWITCH IGNITION SWITCH IGNITION SWITCH IGNITION SWITCH IGNITION SWITCH IGNITION SWITCH IGNITION SWITCH IGNITION SWITCH

IF the traction light is on, there should be a code(s) in it.

When my Ignition Switch failed, my car did the exact same thing. Left me stranded in traffic a few times for as long as 10 minutes, then I could restart it. It was a ghost. We couldn't figure it out. Eventually, I backprobed the Ignition feed at the ICM with my test light. I ran wires through the engine compartment and taped the test light to the windshield in front of my face. With the ignition on, the test light is on. When my car died, the test light went out. That's how I found out it was the ignition switch. This was AFTER replacing the CPS and ICM.....

Or, your Fuel Pump/wiring is dying. Don't know. Keep throwing parts at it and you'll fix it eventually

EDIT: Now that I remember correctly (this was years ago), I drove around for a week with my test light AND a fuel pressure gauge taped to my window.....

Ignition sw,,,,,,,I've had a few folks point to that ,,,,,,,,,,,,my wrench didn't say anything about fuel rails etc ect,,,,,,,,,,,,, he drove the car but it only fail one time and I think his portable scan did pick up a 18 on the cps but he couldn't determine if it was in the cpu ect ect.,,,,,,,,,,,, if the ign sw is failing does it reset after a time ect ect. I thought it might be the compustar remote causing the problem but no that's not it,,,,,,,,,,is it dificult to run this wire as I'm really old and my eyes ain't good. Where is the icm,,,,and how much work is there to replacing the ign sw,,,,,,,,,

The Ignition Switch is inside the Steering Column. It's what physically supplies power to everything when you turn the key. The contacts inside the switch go bad and burn up causing an intermittent problem. The entire column has to be taken apart to replace it. Its really nothing more than a giant clump of wires with a few connectors on it. You can actually have it taken apart and inspected for burns or worn out contacts.

The Ignition Module is what the Ignition Coils are attached to. It's right underneath them. When you open the hood, it will be on the left. There's a flat connecter with a 90* bend in the harness that you can easily see.

If you have a mechanic you trust, I can tell you and post schematics of exactly what he needs to do in order to hook up to this wire. This isn't a common problem, and takes some "engineering" to diagnose it. Any tech with half a brain can perform this process and more than likely figure out your problem. It took me 2 weeks to figure my car out. I replaced all kinds of stuff before we went after the Ignition Switch. I've been where you are before, and it sucks.

Ign/sw,,,,,,,when your riv died in trafic,,,,,,,,would it still crank?,,,,,,,,just not fire,,,,,,,or was it completely dead for 10 mins?
crank position sensor was replaced,,,,,,,,,don't think it's there

Ok,,,,,,,,,I know the ign mod,,,,,,,,,,I just replaced it lol,,,,,,,,,so I run the wiring from there to the test light to watch the system?
my wrench gets 90 per so I think I can do this on my own,,,,,,,,,,,,,the sw powers up the mod correct? Ie bad sw no power to the mod? ,,,,,,,,but why does a wait time correct the problem?

Taking the steering apart sounds like a bore ,,,,,,,,,,,maybe I need a different riv and use this one for parts as it has many new ones lol

digimi wrote:

Ign/sw,,,,,,,when your riv died in trafic,,,,,,,,would it still crank?,,,,,,,,just not fire,,,,,,,or was it completely dead for 10 mins?
crank position sensor was replaced,,,,,,,,,don't think it's there

It would lose spark and just die. It would crank just fine, but wouldn't restart.

Every time you turn the key, the contacts inside the Ignition Switch rub against each other....if the right ones are worn out just enough, it causes an intermittent problem. Contacts can get hot and expand, "moving" things around. The wait time you're experiencing varies. There is no set time you have to wait. Sometimes it fires back up, sometimes you wait.

The Ignition Switch will stop supplying power to the Ignition Module, which is why the car dies, yes. As long as the key is on, the ICM should have ignition power...which is where the test light comes into play.

That sounds like a test worth doing........if you want please send me the wiring diagram either here or digimi@hotmail.com and I'll ck it out on the road......

Before I replaced the coils and ign mod I could start the cat butidt

But it would run rough or miss and sometimes die but only under load IF I cycled the ign twice and started it on the second try it would run fine and SOMETIMES DIE but the new mod and coils solved this problem now I need to take a hard look at the ign sw huh

Offline for now

Offline for now one more thing,,,,,,,,I have a remote start ,,,,,,,,does that not bypass the ign sw when it starts the car,,,,yes
so if it won't start with the remote but only cranks,,,,,,,,,,and the sw is not in the on poscion ,,,,,,,,,,,could that STILL BE THE IGN SW,,,,,,,,, think about it ,,,,,,,,I sure am lol

Disable your Remote Start if you can. They tap into the Ignition Switch, yes. It's certainly possible that it's butchered and things are screwing up. Usually when this happens, it's the box that they use that goes bad. I don't know. I can't physically look at your car.

My friend had the same type of thing happening with his GM car and aftermarket RS. It would lock him out and go into "Security Mode" when it messed up.

Does your Security light stay on by chance when it WON'T start?

my remote is a compustar,,,thats not the problem as it is compleatly separet from the ign except when starting the car ,,,,,,,,when I got home it would not start,,,,the engine was hot from the drive ,,,,,,,,,,,so i ran cold warter over the crank posion sensor and guess what ,,,,,,it fired up,,,,,,,so i shut it down and than it wouldnt start ,,,,so i hit it again with the water,,,,,and it started,,,,,,,,so that tells me the sensor has a short when it gets hot as the contacts separate,,,,,,and when you cool it down they connect again,,,,,,,, and as this part came off ebay for 10 $ ,,,, i think ill replace it again and see what happins,,,, the wrench tested the ign with a scope and that doesnt seem to be the problem,,,,,
i will let everyone know if this works next week,,,,,,,, thanks for the help,,,,, we will see

Well, a bad CPS will absolutely do a you describe. I paid it no attention because you said it was replaced. I was unaware that you installed a $10 Ebay sensor