FAQ: Engine Oil - What type and change intervals?

AA: You wanted to see photos of my car plus the TDM bypass module. How do I get them to you? I need your email address. Rivren

florence_x wrote:

deekster_caddy wrote:

What are you going to flush? The crankcase? I would not recommend it. What makes you think it needs to be flushed?

Yeah, the crankcase. I'm sure the engine (inside) is probably filthy. I'm not sure when the last time my dad (previous owner) had the oil changed on it before I took over the title, especially since there were battery issues prior to my owning her. And I doubt it's ever been seriously cleaned on its inside parts since he bought her so many years ago.

Basically, I just want to start taking better care of the car, especially now that she is getting up there in mileage. I really think a thorough cleaning would help her perform better, though she runs fine as it is.

I'm assuming the "flush" is something similar to like a Seafoam product, that I would only need to do once every 10k miles or so? Unless I'm totally confusing what everyone here means by a flush during the oil change.

sorry this is a month behind....

If the motor sludge is gritty/holds grit then it probably pays to flush it out.

If you open the oil cap and the valve train (what you can see of it) looks pretty clean, maybe you don't want to have a sense of urgency for that motor flush.

I've not flushed the motor in my Riv, and currently don't plan to.

Albertj

I've noticed Mobil Clean 5000 conventional "Performance Motor Oil" is usually on sale at AutoZone. At $9.99 for a 5+ quart jug, it's hard to resist. I've used it 3 times so far, at 3000 mile intervals.



Features:

• 16 percent more cleaning agents than our conventional oil, extra cleaning power helps your engine run cleaner than with other conventional oils — even with today’s longer oil change intervals.

• extra cleaning performance to help prevent the formation of sludge and harmful deposits.

• guaranteed to provide excellent performance and protection for all car engines for up to 5,000 miles or six months, whichever comes first.

• meets key industry and OEM requirements. Designed to exceed most engine warranty requirements.

• official lubricants of NASCAR.

I've seen that too. i normally pick up a qt or so at walmart when i need to top off a car. it's super cheap...make you wonder though.

Mobil 1 synthetic is one of the most expensive oils (and other products) out there, why is their dyno-oil dirt cheap?
Anyone seen a reputable test pitting it against the others like castrol, or penzoil's dyno stuff?

AA wrote:

I've noticed Mobil Clean 5000 conventional "Performance Motor Oil" is usually on sale at AutoZone. At $9.99 for a 5+ quart jug, it's hard to resist. I've used it 3 times so far, at 3000 mile intervals.

Well, even if it is just another dino-oil, 3,000 miles is fine... When I've used syn-blend or full-syn, I still change it at 2/3 of the rated mileage.

What will CA think of next?

http://articles.latimes.com/2011/dec/15/business/la-fi-autos-oil-change-20111215

Just out of curiosity. I heard through the grape vine that switching over to synthetic oil on my aged vehicle might not be a good thing. I'd like to hear it from you guys though. I've been running conventional oil for the car's entire life. Should I switch or not?

You MIGHT develop some seepage or a leak, maybe. I started running Amsoil full synthetic oil in my Riviera when I bought it in 2004 with 86, 000 miles on it. Never a problem. I change it every 6 months. By law, all motor oils must be compatible. You can mix it with conventional oil, and switch back anytime you like.

Yes I was warned against the seepage.

What oil are you guys running right now? I am at like ~160k miles on my Riv. How will 5w30 full synth be for it? 10w30 full synth? 10w30 dino?

10w30 dino (valvoline mostly) took my Riv to 246k miles with plenty of high revving. As you know the failure was not oil-related. Bill said the cylinder bores were perfect, so my rebuilt engine now gets the same treatment.

Hey, it all worked out for the best, you got a rebuilt engine.   

I have been considering getting all the parts for the xp cam and have Bill use them for a build and have him do the swap. Would there be any benefit in doing this though? Would I achieve any gains from a fresh built engine compared to my ~160k block?

After the rebuild, I noticed an improvement in throttle response from a roll. This was due to increased compression from the new rings, and the cleaned valves/seals. It just pulls harder and more abruptly when you put your foot down. Cleaning the intake plumbing also didn't hurt.

To know how much improvement you'll see, do a compression check. 130-140 psi is what I've read for stock bottom end. If you're low, then a rebuild will give you some power. If not, then not so much. Another way to know your rings are leaking is if you noticed a quart or more of oil being burned (not leaking) between changes.