Slow windows?

The passenger side almost doesn't have the strength to break past the rubber seal and roll down.  I'd say it's time to replace the motor but the newish driver side window (new motor and switch a few years ago, barely used) is slower than it used to be too.  The windows were stupid fast when I got the car.  Now they feel a little pathetic.  

The Optima battery is only 3 months old.  I've got an Optima battery tender that analyzes the battery and says it is charging the battery to 100%.  The positive battery cable is brand new.

I'll replace the passenger motor if there are no other ideas but I thought I'd ask before throwing money at the car, which I've done a lot of in the last year.

Jack the R wrote:

The passenger side almost doesn't have the strength to break past the rubber seal and roll down.  I'd say it's time to replace the motor but the newish driver side window (new motor and switch a few years ago, barely used) is slower than it used to be too.  The windows were stupid fast when I got the car.  Now they feel a little pathetic.  

The Optima battery is only 3 months old.  I've got an Optima battery tender that analyzes the battery and says it is charging the battery to 100%.  The positive battery cable is brand new.

I'll replace the passenger motor if there are no other ideas but I thought I'd ask before throwing money at the car, which I've done a lot of in the last year.

On the OE motors the glue that holds the permanent magnets in place fails and the magnets move a bit. At first the motor slows down. When the magnet has moved enough (it may never) the motor fails.

You have to be picky about replacement motor because the Riv motors were faster than the normal GM motors and they are interchangeable. When my pass side failed I had the dealer do the replacement thinking they would get an OE motor for replacement... nope... the motor they installed works but it's a standard-speed unit.

Had they riveted the magnets in place instead of gluing them, these motors would last until the brushes wore out... Sigh...

Hmm, RockAuto has the Dorman motors on sale for $13.27! When I changed my driver side motor I believe we talked about having the motors rebuilt to marine grade. The Dormans would be a good temporary solution while the original motors are rebuilt.

hmmm... my passenger side window and switch work fine, fairly fast,, but the driver side switch for driver window will go down but i have to play with the switch to allow it to go back up, driver side switch will also allow passenger window to go down, but will not go up at all

i remember looking at threads like this years back but im not sure if the pictures in those threads were removed/expired?

how many components are there when dealing with window problems? 2 switches and 2 motors? what would be my fix here?

Probably only the driver's side switch. If you've got extra cash you could replace the motor while you've got the door apart. Be careful with the crumbly plastic when you pull the door panels.

LaFlare wrote:

hmmm... my passenger side window and switch work fine, fairly fast,, but the driver side switch for driver window will go down but i have to play with the switch to allow it to go back up, driver side switch will also allow passenger window to go down, but will not go up at all

i remember looking at threads like this years back but im not sure if the pictures in those threads were removed/expired?

how many components are there when dealing with window problems? 2 switches and 2 motors? what would be my fix here?

I just replaced my drivers side window switch.  It is one unit containing driver & passenger window switches and lock/unlock switch.  About $225 new, as little as $20 used but more typically $40 - $100 depending on where and when you get it.

I took apart the old one and saw the metal contacts on the drivers side switch had burned. You can put CRC "contact improver" connector-safe lube on switch (and plug) contacts to keep that from happening BUT in this case you can't get the switch apart far enough to make the fix without destroying it due to how it's designed to snap together... don't bother, just replace it as a unit.

To get to it, remove the screws at the front and back edge of the door panel (near the top) and the long T30 Torx head bolts from the door pull assist handle (that C shaped handle in the middle of the door). DO NOT PULL THE HANDLE OFF THE DOOR PANEL, you use that handle to help lift the door panel off the door shell once you have the bolts out. (however, if someone busted it off before you, don't worry about it). Finally, in the door handle well there is a hidden screw under a tab in the middle of the escutcheon. Remove the tab carefully by prying around the top with a teeny screwdriver or nylon pry tool, then unscrew the screw and then pry out the escutcheon. Once the bolts and screws are all out you can lift the panel vertically about an inch or so, this disengages the little plastic hooks on the back from the door shell, and tip the top of the panel toward yourself so you can reach around and disconnect the wires from the back. One way to so this is squat with your knees under the bottom edge of the door panel then use your knees to nudge the panel up. Disconnect all the wires then lift the panel away from the door.

While you are in there consider replacing the water barrier - you can use a construction -type trash bag for that since they are now discontinued from GM, but you *may* be able to find one NOS - if you don't find a NOS water barrier, be sure to allow a deep dimple for the speaker to fit into. Also while you are in there lubricate the door handle remote rods and the backside of the lock/door handle with some sort of plastic-safe lube and put lithium grease or similar on the moving part of the window lift mechanism. Also clean any dirt out from the bottom of the door cavity so it does not hold moisture and start rust.

Albertj

Now this is something I will try.  I don't know about every trick on this channel but I've found plenty of good ones.

Method 1 won't work b/c the Riv windows are *frameless* - there is no frame to slow the glass down.

Method 2 will help, only to the limit of the speed of the motor.

Neither method will make a low speed motor work like a high speed motor.

Method 2 ought to be part of your maintenance whenever you have the door panel apart, or every so many years whichever comes first.

albertj wrote:

Method 1 won't work b/c the Riv windows are *frameless* - there is no frame to slow the glass down.

No, but there's a rubber weather seal which may need lubricant. My windows are definitely sticking at the top.

albertj wrote:

Method 2 ought to be part of your maintenance whenever you have the door panel apart, or every so many years whichever comes first.

It was news to me.

Jack the R wrote:

albertj wrote:

Method 1 won't work b/c the Riv windows are *frameless* - there is no frame to slow the glass down.

No, but there's a rubber weather seal which may need lubricant.  My windows are definitely sticking at the top.

albertj wrote:

Method 2 ought to be part of your maintenance whenever you have the door panel apart, or every so many years whichever comes first.

It was news to me.  

There's ways to finesse that lube schedule, like using lithium grease or synthetic grease. I confess I quit doing the lubing when my water barrier had crumbled to the point it's mostly duct tape. Not lubing, however, bit me in the butt this spring, finally caught up with me. .

Albertj

What do you normally lube the weather strip with?

Jack the R wrote:

What do you normally lube the weather strip with?

Polysiloxane grease.  GM sells it "for corvettes" (ACDelco 10-4071) but it's mad cheaper and 100% the same stuff as CRC Dielectric Grease:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_1_9?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=crc+dielectric+grease&sprefix=crc+diele%2Cautomotive%2C186&crid=194EKVK8QTQAD

Do not use silicone spray.  It *works* but the overspray discolors the plastics near the weatherstripping.  You could use DOT 5 brake fluid, which isn't a glycol, it is liquid polysiloxane primarily for show cars, it won't damage paint, does not mix with other brake fluids.   Dribble it onto a shop rag then wipe that on the weatherstrip.   

Wipe th weatherstrip clean before you put the silicone on - no sense gooping the dirt into the weatherstrip.

I believe I've used the dielectric grease in the past, but it's been at least a couple years since I've thought about it. My Riviera is turning into a future barn find.

Small update, now that it is summer I can confirm that most of the slowness comes from the cold.  The weather is warm and my windows are super fast again.

I could have lunch waiting for the windows in my trans am to go up lol.