C pillars come out before the package shelf, I searched?

I want to wrap my c pillars, are they behind the package shelf?

carguy8888 wrote:

I want to wrap my c pillars, are they behind the package shelf?

My experience -- Take the package shelf out first, it's not hard to do and makes it **much**easier to get the Cs out without damage. So that would mean remove the rear seat entirely, then the package shelf (mind the wiring), then the C pillars. The FSM gives you an idea where the pushpins are, you'll want to know that so you don't crack the plastic panel shell doing the R&R and so that you get the pins lined up right for reinstallation.

Albertj

Thanks Albert, I have the material to wrap the package shelf but the supplier was out of the headliner for the c pillars. I guess I'll wait and do them together. Are the stereo speakers attached to the package shelf or something else?

carguy8888 wrote:

Thanks Albert, I have the material to wrap the package shelf but the supplier was out of the headliner for the c pillars. I guess I'll wait and do them together. Are the stereo speakers attached to the package shelf or something else?

Speakers bolt from underneath (trunk side) to a fiberglass panel that supports the package shelf.

It makes it even easier, thanks Albert.

That makes it even easier, thanks Albert.

carguy8888 wrote:

It makes it even easier, thanks Albert.

YW

While you have that package shelf out, give the inside of the rear window a thorough cleaning. Especially in the corners and in the location of the CHMSL.

Good idea, I'm also going to reposition the padding I used to keep the package shelf from rattling.

carguy8888 wrote:

Good idea, I'm also going to reposition the padding I used to keep the package shelf from rattling.

When you take the package shelf out you are likely to find a way to reinstall it so that it does not rattle in the first place. The rattle might actually be the CHMSL, I don't know...

I shoved some headliner in there from when I did the a ars. It was probably banging against the metal piece you're describing. The rattle is fixed but I want to be able to do it correctly.

carguy8888 wrote:

I shoved some headliner in there from when I did the a pillars. It was probably banging against the metal piece you're describing. The rattle is fixed but I want to be able to do it correctly.

The package shelf should have a little 'fiber' carpet padding squares glued under it to stop any rattling.  Maybe something happened on your car.  See if a carpeting or home center near you has a couple yards of the stuff to sell you cheap.  (it's like $100 -$150 a roll but ends and bits of rolls are nearly free)

For cars it's sold in yard-wide rolls. https://www.ebay.com/itm/392669722305 or https://www.ebay.com/itm/392185751722

For buildings it's sold in 12' wide rolls.  This is not a problem as it cuts easily and if you luck up on a roll end they carpet sellers will not charge you much for it. It *retails* for 50c to $1.00 per sq. ft. and remnants of course are cheaper.  Example: https://www.homedepot.com/p/QuietWalk-MP-Global-Products-7-16-in-Thick-8-lb-Density-Carpet-Pad-QWCP180WF/313338971

I reduced noise in my Riv by placing a piece of this stuff under the rear seat from side to side, trimmed it around the fuse panels etc. and tacked it down with double-sided carpet tape (not really needed, it won't move under the seat). Under the package shelf you need basically 2" squares glued in place to stop the rattle - if it is too thick you can give it a haircut with hair clippers, a sharp bread knife, or single edge razor.

I'm rewrapping it because the original carpet faded, deteriorated and/or disintegrated. I temporarily just wedged a piece of headliner in there to keep it from moving around.

On my car C pillars can be easily removed without removing the package shelf first...

Good to know, maybe I'll do them at a later date.

DeepFrozen wrote:

On my car C pillars can be easily removed without removing the package shelf first...

Do your C pillar trim covers have all (there are 3 or 4 I forget) the locator/retainer pins?

I doubt they have ever been off. They are not bad, the edges by the window are a little faded. The package shelf is really faded and ugly. My buddy and I will wrap it on Sunday hopefully.

albertj wrote:

Do your C pillar trim covers have all (there are 3 or 4 I forget) the locator/retainer pins?

I don't remember for sure, but I guess no, not all of them are there. I'd check em out, but it is already cold and I don't want to mess with plastic pins and panels.

DeepFrozen wrote:

albertj wrote:

Do your C pillar trim covers have all (there are 3 or 4 I forget) the locator/retainer pins?

I don't remember for sure, but I guess no, not all of them are there. I'd check em out, but it is already cold and I don't want to mess with plastic pins and panels.

I don't blame you a bit for not wanting to mess with the plastics in the cold.

If you have locator/retainer pins missing the panels are much, much easier to remove and refit. Of course, they may rattle or look wrong if that's the case.

Albertj

This is what it looks like.
IMG_20201121_153842648 by Brian Cohen, on Flickr

C pillars must be removed to get the package shelf out. Since they are out I will purchase matching material and ask my buddy to wrap them. The shelf is perfect, looks more red in the pic but it matches great. Also, it is snug so no rattling lol.

IMG_20201122_144551521 by Brian Cohen, on Flickr

The middle seat belt I will never use.
IMG_20201122_144709568 by Brian Cohen, on Flickr

Where can I find this door panel bulb please, it looks special?
IMG_20201122_150040885 by Brian Cohen, on Flickr

For that door panel bulb, you have to push the wires from the back of the socket through to the front, then solder or crimp a bulb with leads onto the wires. You can use black silicone to insulate the repair. There was a little blue cap that fits over the bulb, you can use glass paint that require heat curing(Pebeo Vitrali in turquoise color or turquoise Vitrea paint pen, available at any big-enough craft store) to make the bulb blue instead. Cure the bulb by lighting it for a while (like 15-30 minutes). If you've ever soldered a wire, you can do this repair.

My buddy can solder, what bulb number 194? Also, what will secure the bulb in place since it will not sit against the socket like the original. If I want to waste time and try and find an original is there a part number and/or other cars I can look for it?

Brian Larry replaced them with a LED when he see's this he will let u know

Originally I was just going to find one from a parts car but Albert's method with or without LEDs would work.

carguy8888 wrote:

My buddy can solder, what bulb number 194? Also, what will secure the bulb in place since it will not sit against the socket like the original. If I want to waste time and try and find an original is there a part number and/or other cars I can look for it?

Bulb number?in the trade they are called "grain of wheat." Example - https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-New-Grain-of-Wheat-Bulbs-14v-40mA-Lamps-Vintage-Receiver-Lights-2-5MM/123998008479

You can get them 12v or 14v.  12v are usually a little brighter, 14v will last a lot longer, like 'life of the car' instead of ~2000 hours.

The bulb nestles in the socket. I secured mine with black silicone BUT you don't really need to if you have the little green lens cap. The base of the cap snaps into the black fitting.

You can find originals in the doors of rivieras, pull the door card and remove the wire from the door harness at the connector. It will be stuck into the door pull from the backside.

I am not aware of other GM cars with this fitted.