FAQ: Series I SC Harmonic Balancer Diagnosis/Installation

Well I've got to replace the crank position sensor, and to perform this wonderful task you have to remove the harmonic balancer  to have access to it. I've never done it but I know you have to have a puller, which I have. I was wanting some feedback on the reinstallation procedures. The GM shop manuals state to just use the crank bolt to push the balancer back into position on the crank shaft. Is it really that simple, or has GM left something out in the manual.
I'd just like to know what I am in for before I start this. Any tips will be greatly appreciated.
THANKS !!

i have always hammered mine back on.

Do not use a 3-jaw puller, you need the 3 bolt puller that bolts into the holes in the balancer, pull it off, replace the sensor, make sure the crank key is lined up in the hole, and tighten it back down with the crank bolt. Thats it. You will have to disconnect the claw mount on the passenger side, and use a jack to drop your engine a couple inches, other wise, you wont get it off.

so you cannot get the balancer off without dropping the engine ?
just looking at it looks like enough room . I am aware of the correct puller to use though. guess I'll find out this weekend.
thanks

Not too tough, just use the 3 bolt puller (1/4 - 28 bolts, 3" long) and an impact, then just use the impact to re-install the bolt and tighten it down.

-Rob

scoopy03 wrote:

i have always hammered mine back on.

oof dont use a hammer...ya wanna put bearings in it?? lol

Noooooooooo I am not going to use a Hammer !!! I don't think hammers were made for this. Nah my bearings are OK. I just wanted to know you guys thoughts and experiences on reinstalling the balancer. I've never done it so i am going into this blind. I don't think I'll have any trouble but it's always better to know what to expect. I am just wanting to replace the crank position sensor. Because I am getting the "18x intterrupts signal lost" DTC occasionally causing a no start. I have already replaced the cam position sensor, and ignition module and coil packs. I am hoping this will do the trick as far as solving my on going starting issue that I thought I had solved with the cam sensor replacement.

expect alot of force required to remove the bolt i broke a socket, and the air gun i had wasnt powerful enought to take it off. i had to use the starter and leverage to break it loose. i think club gp had a write up but i cant find it right now.

An impact wont do it in my experience. You need to wedge a wrench in the flexplate and get a breaker bar for the crank bolt.

it takes like 400lbs force to move it, my impact was turned all the way up and didnt even budge it, then the socket shattered...foreign $h!† i just used a breaker bar braced by the sub-frame and bumped the starter. took like 2 tries and it was loose enough to finish with the impact.

97rivman wrote:

An impact wont do it in my experience. You need to wedge a wrench in the flexplate and get a breaker bar for the crank bolt.

Impact didn't work on mine either.

jhodges wrote:

Noooooooooo I am not going to use a Hammer !!! I don't think hammers were made for this. Nah my bearings are OK. I just wanted to know you guys thoughts and experiences on reinstalling the balancer. I've never done it so i am going into this blind. I don't think I'll have any trouble but it's always better to know what to expect. I am just wanting to replace the crank position sensor. Because I am getting the "18x intterrupts signal lost" DTC occasionally causing a no start. I have already replaced the cam position sensor, and ignition module and coil packs. I am hoping this will do the trick as far as solving my on going starting issue that I thought I had solved with the cam sensor replacement.

What code number(s) are you getting? I believe that's one of the codes I used to get....turned out the PCM was the culprit. IIRC, the codes I got were P0321 and P1361.

Although I never had starting issues....

TType_Riviera wrote:

scoopy03 wrote:

i have always hammered mine back on.

oof dont use a hammer...ya wanna put bearings in it?? lol

i never had a problem with that happening. just my luck i guess.

yes P0321 and P1361, both are ignition codes and with the p0321 being an "18x intterrupts signal lost" this is the signal sent by the crank sensor, I am thinking this is back plus the starting issue pcm isn't pulsing the injectors, therefore causing a no start situation. It could be the PCM I guess though I did replace the original one with one from a wrecked 95.

Have you resolved this yet? Sorry it took so long to reply - I moved and didn't get my computer back up until yesterday...

All I can say is that my car's PCM gave those two codes in error, and another guy I was conversing with over email had the same two codes, and his PCM was also at fault (his was a '95 Park Ave). It's been about a year since I got the "new" PCM (out of a Lumina van), and no codes have shown up since (and many other little troubles have disappeared).

Yes I got the crank sensor replaced, I had to take to a garage since I didn't have the tools to remove balancer. haven't had a return of codes or any cranking issue since the replacement. I talked to the mechanic that replaced it for me and his reaction was yeah you would have never removed that bolt with a wrench LOL.
cost me $194.00 but well worth it !!

$194 actually isn't as bad as I was expecting. Glad to see you got it fixed!

I just had to replace my harmonic balancer on my 95, wasn't to difficult, i did have a lift and a cheater pipe to get the bolt off. As for the actual pulley, i beat it off the back with a hammer and a screw driver and just kept rotating it till it came off, (didn't have a puller). it came off real easy, it was shot and all tore up. The new one went on like a glove and i torqued the bolt and all is good. Change the belts while your at it, i know mine were looking a little rough

Got mine replaced yesterday at my GF's dads shop. Fixed the noise the old 1 was making. Unfortunately my Left exhaust manifold has a crack.

Although as luck would have it, my friend who buys parts off me and whom I give a deal to all the time, offerred to weld it up for me for free. He works at the machine shop here in town.

Sweet deal.

Sucks that I have to pull the balancer... that doesnt sound like fun. I guess I should start PB blasting now so it loosens up for the weekend. QUESTION>>> do i need a front seal after pulling it?

jeffyd123 wrote:

Sucks that I have to pull the balancer... that doesnt sound like fun. I guess I should start PB blasting now so it loosens up for the weekend. QUESTION>>> do i need a front seal after pulling it?

ANSWER>>> Most likely yes. It really depends on how careful you are when you pull it, and how old/deteriorated the oem one is. They are cheap so have one on hand.

The first time i pulled my balancer i was lucky enough not to need one, but the second time i tore some of the edge and replaced it to be safe.

Also, PB may not be needed. with the force of the starter cranking on a breaker bar the bolt should come out no matter how rusted it looks. I'd hate to see you loose a belt b/c the pb got all over it

OK thanks Mr riv

And be prepared to replace the Torque to Yeild, One Time Use Bolt P/N 24504736 with new from GM.
I'm sure many people haven't changed it but for $10.00, I'm not taking the chance.

my HB took a stab at cracking itself and it succeeded! anyone know of a high perf replacement? someone must make one?

ZZP sells a few different ones but i cant say they would last any longer than OEM, and i dont think you would reap the power benefits of over/under drive pullies unless you are pushing 500hp+.

I personally will only buy ACDELCO because of the 2 failures with the ones from the local auto stores (each lasted less than 6 months before the center shaft cracked). While the first delco lasted 130k miles. (at 170k now)