Aftermarket Head Unit Install?

Dude i saw one in a rivi on CarDomain.com, i tried to locate the photos for you but i couildnt find the car again, i am sure i saw it though and it looked absolutely perfect, it was flush and filled the entire dash space well, it looked like the center console on a Lexus RX-09

I just ordered Infinity Kappa 52.7i 2way for the front , Infinity kappa 692.9i for the rear, and want to get a JVC KW-XG 500 head unit to replace the factory unit.
Crutchfield says the head unit will not fit our Riv's
They said that the factory head unit opening is not deep enough for any of their stereos.
Does anyone have a good solution for this problem?

Erik,
I haven't done it yet but almost everyone that has installed aftermarket radio's be it a single or double DIN has had to remove some plastic behind the stock radio. I've seen write ups with pic's on here somewhere that can show and help.
The deekster recently put a DD in his car and he did a write up, plus there are others. Do a quick search and I think you'll find what your looking for.
The write up is actually in this thread. Read from beginning and you'll find it.

They said that about my stereo too. They don't list any radios that will 'fit'. You'll have to cut for depth like I did here.

They fit the opening, but not the depth. See pics on earlier pages for cutting guidelines...

Same problem with my Olds Alero.

just cut out the material behind your stereo. Just make sure theres no wires back there first! Get a dremel tool and have at it!

I just installed the same setup as Deekster over the weekend, a couple of tips for the next guy:

1) The Metra harness adapter I got had 2 extra wires not used in the Riviera/Pioneer. I repinned one to E5 for use with the PAC SWI-PS. No splicing required! There are also Riviera-specific instructions on their web site, saves some time figuring out what wires are needed and that our car uses version 4. I can't remember the URL, it's on a little yellow piece of paper inside the SWI-PS box. It also includes the quick version of the programming sequence.

2) The Metra double-DIN install kit was the type that requires the center bar to be removed across the middle of the opening (set up for 2 single-DIN head units). I'm pretty decent with the Dremel but it's still noticeable where the bar was removed if you really look for it.

3) It's not really spelled out in the SWI-PS instructions (or maybe I missed it) but you have to do the reprogramming quickly. You don't really have time to stop and read the instructions for each step before it times out and resets the reprogramming sequence. Read it in advance and be prepared to move reasonably quickly to the next step.

4) You'll need an adapter to plug the Riviera antenna into the Pioneer deck. Pioneer uses what I would call standard (at least for the older GM stuff I have ever worked on) and the Riv uses a smaller plug.

5) Even with the entire back cut out of the dash behind the head unit, it's still a really tight fit. Get as much of the cabling out of there as possible. The worst culprit is the USB cable that ships with the Pioneer, it has a big anti-interference barrel on it that doesn't help matters at all.

6) I am disappointed with the streaming Bluetooth audio and my Blackberry. You have to wait for the two devices to connect and then manually start playing music on the Blackberry. I'm guessing you'd also have to manually initiate the connection if you use a remote start. I'm usually too lazy to change CDs in the car, so I figured since the phone is with me all the time it would be easier to just keep changing the music on the phone. I'll probably just throw an old iPod mini in the glove box and call it a day.

Don't get me wrong, Deeksters writeup was really good and provided some good info. And I'm still really happy with the deck so none of this is a deal breaker. Just thought a couple of tips would be helpful to the next guy.

Thanks for the contribution. I never tried bluetooth audio, try plugging the USB cable into your blackberry and see what happens?

You are right on about getting as much cabling as possible out of the back, there is not much room at all back there. It's a very tight squeeze.

I forgot to mention the antenna size changer, IIRC that was one of the hardest cables to pull out of the way when squeezing the deck back there.

Yeah, the SWI-PS programming does happen pretty fast, but it wasn't _that_ bad, was it?

Pics!

Glad it went well!

No, it wasn't bad at all. I had to do it 3 times before I figured out the problem was _me_ and not the SWI-PS.. The worst of it was fighting with the battery draining pretty bad around that point, nothing seems to work right when the battery is almost dead.

I have to go back in there to do a remote start soon so I want to fix a few items. I have a gap at the bottom of the deck between the face plate and the dash. The top fits nicely, it's just the bottom. To be honest, I haven't even had time to set the clock in the Pioneer. I also need to put the antenna adapter in there.

I don't know what I was thinking.. When I de-pinned the unused wires in the SWIPS harness, I also removed the blue wire. That's the one that sends the serial data out to the HVAC. I'm still shaking my head on that one but at least I know I'll be in there again soon.

Here's one I didn't think of - when you disconnect the battery, do you lose the custom programming?

In other words, was it a bad idea to hide the SWI-PS in a place not easily accessible after I reconnect the battery?

I don't think so... but I guess I haven't had the battery disconnected since the install... ??

My volume and temp still work but the seek/scan don't seem to do anything anymore. My Bluetooth was acting up, maybe that was the only problem.

The Pac SWI is notoriously hard to get all the features working right. You may simply need to spend another couple of hours on it.

I thought I'd share this little thing since I overlooked it myself several times and just now caught it.
If you're changing to an aftermarket head unit and using a typical mounting kit, it might be a good idea to remove the two pushnuts that fasten the top and bottom half of the main HVAC control / head unit holder for a better seating between the frame and the aftermarket install kit. Here's what I'm talking about...



That picture is the kit installed with the pushnuts removed so there is no stress on the plastic mounting tabs that would result from the clearance to the pushnuts.

Overall not a super big deal - don't go rip it apart if you didn't do that but something to remember if you have a install in the future.

Todays turtle tip



If you're putting an aftermarket head unit in, rather than buying an antenna adaptor, remove the adapter thats already hidden in the car and plug right in! The adaptor can be accessed easily if you remove or at least unfasten and lift the dash top. It's clipped right to the very top of the radio/HVAC controls area.

Good stuff, T-man.

Please tell me that all that stuff you have impinging on a smoker's right to snuff his butt in your dash includes an oil pressure gauge...
And if so, what kinda' oil pressure do you have?

word kool system u got their, my RIVI bumps da tunes 2 LOL

well mr.coke man. we must see color pics of your riv. i am curious?

Eldo wrote:

Good stuff, T-man.

Please tell me that all that stuff you have impinging on a smoker's right to snuff his butt in your dash includes an oil pressure gauge...
And if so, what kinda' oil pressure do you have?

The final plan with those gauges at this point is to get another aeroforce and add a oil press sender and wideband to its aux function but that's not very high on the priority list. Right now I have no idea what my oil press is.

turtleman wrote:

The final plan with those gauges at this point is to get another aeroforce and add a oil press sender and wideband to its aux function...

Huh?

Eldo wrote:

turtleman wrote:

The final plan with those gauges at this point is to get another aeroforce and add a oil press sender and wideband to its aux function...

Huh?

The Aeroforce gauges allow for two axillary inputs so you can buy an electronic sender for anything (oil press, fuel press, wideband AFR) and program the gauge to display the information as it's own. In my case, instead of having a dedicated AFR gauge (which looks like a techno light show at night), it will be displayed just like any other readout on the Aeroforce. Wideband is an air-fuel ratio meter.

Verrrrrry in-tah-res-ting...
(OK, how many are old enough to catch the Laugh-In reference?)

I take it that your A/F ratio gauge is mainly for WOT runs?

Eldo wrote:

Verrrrrry in-tah-res-ting...
(OK, how many are old enough to catch the Laugh-In reference?)

I take it that your A/F ratio gauge is mainly for WOT runs?

But also very stupid! martin and rowans ... even in the uk!

Actually, it's shtupid!

(Say goodnight, Dick...)