AAH! DOORS FREEZING SHUT!

Much to my dismay, I went out last night to trim my new floormats since that had to be done. A small bit of water got into the rubber seal around the window, froze, and my door was sealed shut. The door wouldn't open more than the handle's action would push it. I didn't want to tug on it, because the handle doesn't feel solid and invincible, so i was stuck. It was only 21 degrees out, and it gets colder up where I live.

So, I go through my attic, find an extension cord, ask my mom for her old blowdryer, and sit outside for 15 minutes heating up the rubber seal around the window until the small bit of ice melts. I finally get in, pop open the passenger door, and turn the car on to heat it up for 15 or so minutes. The trunk opens fine, but I don't think the rear seats fold down.

I guess I have to wipe down the seals before I get out of the car now. The door still felt like it wanted to freeze up when I went out this morning. Is this a common problem for the Riviera? I don't want to have to sit outside with a blowdryer 4 months out of the year!!! Anyone have an easy way to prevent this?

You did the right thing with the hair dryer. I've been in your situation before. It happens to us because the door is so long. There's so much sealing area, and lots of leverage working against you. Be patient. Don't pull too hard!

Try taking a can of silicone spray lubricant and spraying a generous about in a rag. Rub the seals down really well with the stuff, sunroof too. It helps against mild freezing, but if there's an ice storm, you'll still be stuck. No way around that except patience. Sometimes one door is easier than the other. If the passenger side opens, you can start the car and heat it up.

One thing you might want to check is the door alignment. Does the door meet up with the body when closed? If it's sticking out, this may allow moisture to get in. You can adjust the alignment by loosening and moving the door catch on the inside.

our handles are not meant to be pulled on. (i have to bit my tongue when a girl yanks up on the handle before i unlock it )

does petroleum jelly have a lower freeze point than water? you could line the seals with that. IDK if it would work, hell, i dont even live where it get cold (last night was the coldest its been here in 14yrs and it was 20* with the wind chill)

Petroleum deteroiratess rubber so don't try that.

Petroleum jelly brakes down latex, but our door seals aren't made of latex. It should be fine on most plastics/rubbers. I don't use it, but lots of people do with no problems.

its not petrol in the sense of gasoline, its the same stuff you put on you lips to keep them from being chap. jelly and talcum powder are what many people (and BMW) recommend lubricating and treating rubber weather strips with. (not at the same time b/c that would be a mess)
i use Meguire's rubber treatment for doors, but i've used petroleum jelly on my sun roof for years now and it has no deterioration.

Now, that silicone spray stuff, is that like WD-40 or something else?

Otherwise, between my two choices, Vasoline and that stuff, which would be easiest, safest, and least expensive(if there's a small difference that's fine, but $20 will be a factor in deciding) to use on my car? I'm going to college even further North from where I live, so I want to know what's best. I won't be using it on the sunroof, as I won't be opening that until Spring.

I'm gonna call up Buick and see what they say about Vasoline.

Silicone spray is not like WD40, it's a dry lubricant. It comes in a can that looks like this:



This is what the Riviera owner's manual recommends using on all rubber seals.

Alright then, if the owner's manual says so then that's what I'll use. Also, every body panel lines up perfectly, so door alignment is out of the question.

This site has been so helpful! Thanks guys!

freezing doors happen to me a lot. Luckily the other door works fine and I push from the inside out. There was one time that pushing didn't even work. That was the day I was I had a bench seat. I had to climb over the console. Even after driving for 20 mins with the heat on the door was still stubborn but with a bit more effort it was open.

would KY work? j/k

Alright, just went out to WalMart to pick up some of the silicone stuff, and gave all the rubber door and trunk seals a twice-over. Hope this stuff works, it's only 10 degrees outside!!! Time will tell tomorrow morning...

It happened again!!!

Came home off the train 2 degrees out. Walking to my car I decide to go for the passenger side to drop off my breifcase and the door was stuck. Oh well, I'll just get in normal and but in in the backseat. That too was stuck. I had my iPod on so I shut it off to make sure the fob was unlocking the door. Still just stuck.

I put down the breifcase and try the other side, success. I'm in. Turned over the car. An volleyed with the idea of sitting on the cold leather or braving the -17 wind chill.....cold leather. After a second I decided to climb over the console to the driver seat. I figured the heated leather seat only workes better when you sit on it.

Then the guy 4 spaces over haves his arms at me. What, what. Is my tailpipes blocked?! I tried for the door....duh, it was stuck, back over the console but quicker. I need to know what's up. "you left your briefcase on the ground".

Wide-eyed in my embarassment and stupidity grab the case and climb back in.

Again the door remained stuck even when I got home. And again I got it open. This time I saw the culprit, ICE. I chipped gently at it, didn't want any foam rubber to come with it. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to get in it.

What a blemish of a problem on an otherwise perfect car, huh?

Well, live and learn, I guess.

This happens all the time in Montana....don't pull on the door....push it....hard, with your body. Theres enough play in the seals so it wont dent your door. The ice build up will shatter and you can open your door....

Well It's ONLY Nov. 9th and my riv was already iced over!!! I couldn't open it but i got er' open......... It sure was nippy up here today!

Thank God Ive never had that problem! Hopefuly I never will

Happens to me a couple times each winter in new england, but usually when we get iced in it's all our cars, not just the Riv. The Riv tends to be the worst to open though. I'll try giving it a push first next time... Good idea, thanks Chicken.

Problem is, when you have 1/4" layer of ice over you car, you have the same thing on the ground. Try pushing, but don't fall on your face! I usually bang around the window seals with my fist, then try very slowly to get a finger in. Sometimes the passenger side is easier, so you can reach across and push, or just crawl over and start driving. Usually about 20 mins later you'll hear "thud", which means the door popped ajar.

If the silicone spray does not work for you, silicone 'tune up grease' will. You can get it in little packs at a car parts store, or in small tubes. It is also available as CRC 02085 Di-Electric Grease or 03085 Lubricant and Sealant (food-grade version).

The spray Aaron pointed out is lots chaper - a can of that dielectric grease could set you back as much as $17.00 - the difference is the dielectric grease will leave a film on the rubber that keeps the water off the seal, compared to the silicone spray AA ponted out. The spray soaks in to the rubber - which is 100% Okay, but it also means that if your rubber gaskets are pretty dry, the stuff will soak in so that it won't lube much. I found that if I lubed my seals each time I wash the car, with the silicone spray, the doors would not ice up in the winter. If I did not , they would -- until I was told about the lube by a tech at my Buick dealer. Once a season (between labor day and columbus day) seems to do the trick to stop the freezing problem. In practice I use the lube a few times a year. To apply it I just use a corner of a towel or sponge to rub it into/onto the door, trunk and sunroof seals. If the seals seem dirty I may wipe them off with a damp towel and then put the grease on. Of course, your experience may vary but mine has been pretty good.

Oh by the way you may find that a credit card (or simlar plastic card, like hotel room door key) works fine as a mini window scraper to bust ice off. It will get into nooks and crannies, if you are not too rough with it then you can use it to scrape away ice from around the window glass. Of course, it won't work if the ice is too thick.

Albertj

BTW, GM also recommends using the Dielectric Grease for lubing all door, window and trunk seals.

. I'm too cheap t buy an ice scraper if what i have serves the same purpose

happened to me for the first time the other day. door locks froze though and i had to wait a few hours until it warmed up to open them

I'm glad I have a garage and don't have to worry about my doors freezing anymore. One winter my Riv sat outside and the doors froze very easy...

Fantastic it happened again! Of course i did getta car wash

GM should have known about this type of problem with a frameless windowed door. I believe that's the problem. The frame would seal a lot better than what the window does, so water seeps in at the window and freezes. The reason I say they should have known is because I have a fiero that has the same problem, and since it was built over 20 years ago, you think they would have figured out the cause of it and stayed away.

On a side note. How would White Lithium grease work? The only problem I have with it is that it's a white color and looks messy when just sprayed on. You could put it on a rag and rub it on though. Guaranteed not to melt, freeze, or run, inhibits corrosion, cuts friction, extends life. It's mainly for hinges and what not, but since it won't freeze, might work on our door problem. Needs to be at least 50 degrees F when you apply it though