Series I Radiators

i have a 95 sc riviera and it has a cracked radiator, i found one online and it reads 1995-99 buick riveria radiator. but my question is when i searched on autozone it came up that there is a difference between 1995-96 and 1997-99, i emailed the guy whose selling the one online and he said that it will fit but im not going to buy it without knowing for sure any help appreciated

You'd be surprised at how many cars the later (1997-9) radiator fits, including yours. It fits a bunch of 'em.

Albertj

So if 1995-96 fits 97-99, why is the part number different? Just because it fits, does that mean it is the correct unit? Can anyone confirm?

I checked a parts fiche from 2001. Fiche shows 4 radiators, and 2 "cores."

Radiators:

1) 52472633, for '95 only, Delco 20805, code GH, GL, R3
2) 52472459, for '96 only, Delco 20836, code GA
3) 52472783, for '97 - '99, Delco 20892, code AEE
4) 52484208, for 98-99, discontinued (on my 2001 fiche), w/AC Cndnsr

For *all* years, the fiche only shows 2 end tanks (meaning all the cores that are used fit these 2 tanks), inlet 52469747 and outlet 52469749.

For the cores, the fiche shows 1995's is 52477616 (Delco 10083) and 1996-1999 is 52476972 (Delco 10071).

What to do: consider asking a parts counterperson at a Buick dealer to look them up. I think you will find that the factory specified putting a larger core into the later radiator (remember, the tanks are the same).

For my money, here is what I would consider:

1) Is your radiator cracked, or just one of the end tanks? if it's just one or the other tank, might want to repair it. These radiators are designed to be reparied (at least, by a radiator shop) and the end tanks are less than $35.00 each from GMPartsDirect.Com. The early core is $113 and the later one is less than $140. If I remember right the trick to doing the repair is to have a certain type of jig that crimps the tanks onto the cores. If you are in a major metro area I'd seriously consider

2) f I was doing a 'concours' restoration for a car I was not driving daily, trying to win trophies or ribbons, I would go about finding an older radiator. If the aftermarket people have stock of the older (ostensibly smaller) core, they will still show them and try to sell them. Maybe they will tell you that you have to wait for it (the '95 radiator), that it's made of unobtanium, but there is only one in the system that they will get for you if you hand over your wallet and kiss their tenderest body part, or whatever. Actually, the easiest thing would to be to get one from RockAuto or GMPartsDirect.com, except you will have to wait a while for ti to arrive.

3) If I was repairing a 'daily driver' I would find out from an experienced dealer counterperson if my hunch was right - that is, if the later radiator was in fact better for cooling - and if so then I'd get that one. The hint for me is the later core is about $25 more than the earlier core and the tanks are the same.

4) to save some money at what might be lower hassle, search this Riviera Performance board for Ed Morad and call him up. He probably has a radiator out of another Riv, or a Park Avenue, or some such, that will fit no problem. He'll probably throw in the fans and all - it will be a relatively easy install.

5) If I just had to have a new radiator and I had a few weeks on my hands that I could wait, I'd consider getting one from GMPartsDirect.Com - they are $165.00 complete, plus shipping, for the Delco 20805.

Hope this helps. I have to run.

Albertj

So I'm looking @ 160 for a new radiator. How is the install on these?

Most likely the cores were different thicknesses depending on engine/trans combo. I know the Bonne's had a nice core up to 96 and then all got a thin pos.

Check radiatorexpress.com and other online sources. Usually they have great prices and fast shipping.

ive never instaled a riv rad,but it doesnt look that hard...

Installing a Rad on a Riv is not too bad, just time consuming.

Good info AlbertJ thank you.

When you say time consuming...like a few hours? Any special tools?

Ugh, After doing a coolant flush, it looks like i've flushed out the leak stop that a previous owner put in. Tired more leak stop, but no real help. The rad shop here wants 400$ for a new rad, and labor for like another 200$. So thats 600$ for an estimate, and I know its going to end up more. Think I'll change it myself, and since rockauto lists the RAD for the 95 at like 150 bucks, even with shipping, I should be ahead.

so the two listed on rock auto are actually different...:
http://info.rockauto.com/SPI/CU1777.html

http://info.rockauto.com/GoDan/Detail3.html?431364.jpg

The proliance one has inlet and outlet fittings that are 1/16 " bigger than the other one. Also it is slightly thicker.

Anyone have any ideas what is right? or if the fittings for a 96-99 are right and can be used? I don't want to bring one over the border and find its useless to me, or was not the right one to get.

Edit, well, the local NAPA only lists the proliance one for the car. For me to get that one from rock auto, with shipping and the exchange rate it would cost me around 280$ and I would have to wait. Also I would take the chance of it getting mishandled at the border and damaged, I think I'll go with the one from the local NAPA, even if its 30 bucks more. So 310$ for a new rad. balls. I guess there will be a write-up on changing the RAD on a 95 now, since theres NO WAY i'm paying the hourly rate for someone else to do this.

Stop Leak is well known for clogging other passages in the cooling system. In my opinion it shouldn't even be sold.

Try Ed Morad, he might have a decent used one.

looks like sane decision on your part. I have not change a Riv rad before (changed a number of others) and the Riv looks not *difficult* just time consuming because of all the stuff you have to pull off of it. That's why much earlier I suggested getting one from Ed Morad - he *leaves* the ancillary stuff on so all you have to do it take off the rad support and undo the connections, then drop in the rad.

Albertj

Yeah, I would have gone with Ed Morad if I were Stateside, but shipping to canada, with the exchange rate makes that a less desirable option. I got the one from NAPA, and will be doing it whenever I get the time, hopefully in the next week or so. I might as well do a write-up while I'm at it, I'll make it a flush and RAD change.

Oh, forgot about exchange. When I went to Niagara Falls with my wife (for no good reason) a couple months ago the dollar and loonie were about at parity. Now that I check today, I see that there is a premium, and USD$1 is CAD$1.18.

Ouch (for you). 20% is a big chop and then there's customs. Sorry, I had *no* idea.

Albertj

Yeah, I'm wishing that I had bought all kinds of things when they were the same