FAQ: Which Spark Plugs & Ignition Wires should I use?

I wouldn't even bother with the MSDs. Plenty of people running stock coils in 12 second cars.

AA is probably correct that 104's will be ok in stock engine. Run 'em unless you start to experience fouling issues. If you prefer to replace your plugs then forget about them for a few years, go with Autolite platinum AP605's. If you don't mind regapping/replacing every year or 2, run coppers.

will e3 iridium plugs work with our engine, im thinking about getting autolites but seen all the shizz about e3's or whatever it is

dont waste your money

IIRC 104's are one heat range cooler than 605's.

BillBoost37 wrote:

IIRC 104's are one heat range cooler than 605's.

right.
i believe it goes

606 (stock)
605 (1 colder)
104 (2 colder)
103 (3 colder)

copper cools better than any of the other metals, platinum is the hotter of the choices, and iridium is somewhere in between the two. copper decays fastest, while iridium and platinum will likely break or melt before they wear out.

"A switch in heat range of the spark plug will change
the temperature of the spark plug tip by 70-120
degrees." -per autolite's website pdf

it is much safer to have too cold of a plug and foul it, than to have too hot of a plug and have detonation

It's also much safer to use copper plugs, switching them out every 20k miles, than it is to attempt 100k miles using exotic metals. A frequent plug change interval gives you a chance to examine the electrodes more often. You'll catch most problems before they become serious.

The OE plugs *are* Iridium.

Albertj

For warranty purposes, they make sense. For performance purposes, they don't, imo. Kind of like how many factory vehicles have idiot lights - gauges are better.

I suggest 104AL (although I run 103's now), OEM coils, and PRJ wires (or OEM if money is tight)... just my .02

As I said earlier, I'm unsatisfied with my gas mileage, and was told to think about replacing plugs and wires. The wires look to be in okay condition, so I can hold out on those for now. Too expensive anyway. I know that replacing the plugs but not replacing the wires doesn't always work if the wires are shot, but the wires seem fine to me.



I saw AA say to get Autolite 605's, which apparently don't fit the Riviera. I can get them for something like $1.34 a piece, so I want to know, what spark plugs should I spend my $8 on?

Also, how easy is it to install them? What tools do I need? Does anything have to be put in at a specific torque?


Keep in mind, I am running all stock except for a little power drain from my HID lights and Infinity replacement speakers, no sub, and have a K&N air filter. I don't know what stock boost is, but I'm running on it.

Autolite 605s don't fit on a riviera? thats news to me...

I'm guessing the guy at the parts counter told you that?
They're usually incompetent , don't listen to them.

Go somewhere else and get autolite 605s.

The AutoZone clerk told me AL104s had been discontinued. He tried to sell me platinums instead. Idiot. I walked across the street and bought AL104s from Advance.

Rule #1. Most clerks don't know your car.

Rule #2. Some clerks want to sell you a more expensive part.

Get the AL605s. They are easy to change. The rears might be different on Series I from what I've been told. See:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/series-i-engine-transmission-f13/series-i-spark-plugs-anyone-know-how-to-do-it-t1758.htm

i want to run a 3.4 on my series 2, what plugs should i buy?, i know they need to run colder, so..?

104 Autolights

Quote :

Seriously, what makes AL104s the apparent choice?

The copper AL104s are a good choice if you want to safely push the engine to WOT on a regular basis. If you are only looking to use the car for easy to moderate driving, the platinum plugs work great for many thousands of miles.

The platinums cost more because platinum is more precious than copper. It's as simple as that. The AL copper plugs are not junk because they are inexpensive. They're the safer and better choice if you race the car.

Well, I plan on doing some light modding. Foreseeably, I'd like to get a CAI/FWI, 180 degree thermostat, eventually a 3" DP, I can't see it going much farther than that with the cars miles on it. Would AL104s be advisable with those mods in mind? How much mileage would it cost me? I do like the WOT runs, I just want most importantly to take spark knock to zero. No way to check it, I'd just like to do all the mods that reduce it.

I doubt I'll be doing headers, but if I learned more I maybe at the most could do rockers some day. Possibly a .1" smaller pulley, definately nothing like the GTP had...

If you mission is to minimize KR, I would advise copper AL104s. Check the plugs for fouling at ~10k miles, and for wear at 20k miles. Or just wait and see what happens. It's only $1.50 per plug.

Yes, it is still doing it after the PCM reset. So for sure the next step would be spark plugs? Would one of those platinum spark plugs be okay to use? I saw one with four little tabs sticking out to the center and I think it said it doesn't need to be gapped or something - would those be any good to use?

NO.

Get regular spark plugs. How many times should we say it?

Closely inspect your wires too.

What the hell are regular spark plugs!? Other than the material, most are the same. I don't know shit about the differences, why the shit does something that sparks inside the cylinder not all function the same damn way?

Well - they function pretty much the same way at first. The copper plugs (regular plugs) wear out because the heat and spark erode the metal from the contacts. The platinum plugs and the iridium plugs don't wear out as quick as copper ones do but end up with other problems if you are running them hard (racing) or long. Im my experience, an example is the bosch platinums. Anode on those plugs, instead of being a blunt copper wire, is a ceramic nipple filled with a wire that has a dot of platinum on the end flush with the end of the nipple. In some cars I've run them no problem and in others they don't work so well after a while because the metal erodes into the anode.

"Copper" plugs are the standard plugs in each manufacturer's line - Bosch, AC, Champion, Autolite, NGK. They don't all run the same though. I had a Rambler Rebel with the 290 CID V-8 that *loved* to run on AC plugs, hated Champions. Had a Plymouth Valiant that ran fine and purred like a kitten with Champions and hated just about anything else - and would purr on the cheapest Sunoco 86 octane kool-aid for gasoline...

I think the point is that the materials make a difference in performance over the long run and people are just trying to share their experiences. Take it or leave it... as for me I don't drive my Riv (Eleanor) real hard, the Delco Iridium's work fine for me. Almost time to put in my 3rd set though, I'll reach 190,000+ miles this weekend.

Albertj

The material will play a role in how the plugs function, electrode temps, heat transfer, durability, and how much they cost. If you want less KR and better performance, buy copper (regular) single electrode AL104s. If you want 100k miles of maintenance free driving, or you are impressed by experimental electrode designs, spend $6.99 per plug and see how it goes.

It's kind of like buying tires. You want an 80k mile tread life warranty? You have to give up performance. Those super durable compounds don't grip as well as the softer Z-rated tires with 30k mile tread life.

I don't need pure long-lasting econo spark plugs, but I don't want stuff that needs to be replaced every few thousand miles. I suppose an inbetween of the AL104s and something more basic. I mean, what would happen if I stuck 104s in and just drove until it started doing something odd? Why would I need to check them?

How much real performance gains will I see from using AL104s over factory Iridiums?

My dad is determined to be an ass. I told him about wanting to use AL104s and he said "Those people on your forum don't know what they're talking about". Nevermind the fact some of you are pushing 300+ hp and know lots about cars. My dad is certain that he's Mr. Know-fucking-everything about everything and says it won't reduce spark knock because my car doesn't have any (Because it's not modded). He thinks spark knock is always audible like he says it was in his car (You know, that one that is blown up - I should listen to him about how to take care of a motor). He won't listen to any reason at all and STILL won't STFU about putting his shitty plugs in my car.

I'm going to go insane...