And yet another F&$#ing problem, please help!!

I had a check engine light come on, I than scanned it and came up as PO-640.
QDM1 Failure= quad driver module.. What is this? Is it the computer under the passenger side kick panel? How do I correct it?And what does this do? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!! Thank you very much,

That was yesterday!! Now today the light is off but the problem I am having is I went to the bank this afternoon and all was good on the highway, about a 5 mile drive.I stopped at the light and the car just stalled. I started it back up, and it cranked like it had a dead battery(I just replaced it with an interstate battery) and it cranked like that when I got it.. .So I got it started and went to the bank but the whole time there it ran like there was a real bad miss in it. So I left it cool off for about 15 minutes got in and started driving again, and it was just HORRIBLE, stalling everytime I stopped the car and it was idling like there was a bad miss, bucking and hestating the whole time. I got it back to the house and put it in the garage and could barley drive it, it stank up the whole garage like it is running rich.And the motor has a HORRIBLE KNOCK..IT IS JUST HORRIBLE!!!!!! So I hollowed the cat yesterday and finished the fwcai, did seafoam cleaned the throttle body out and the little black box with 3 screws in it and filled with 93 octane.It ran like a rape date.Than today I have this problem!!! IT was like someone just turned a switch on to make it run like shit...PLEASE SOMEBODY HELP ME FIGURE THIS OUT BEFORE I DO SOMETHING I DONT WANT TO DO TO IT!!!! Could the computer have taken a shit finally? OR WHAT???? Please somebody help...


Thank you all for this great site and all your help, Lance

Here's a link to an explanation of what the quad driver module is: http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic207684.htm

I have heard of somewhat frequent PCM failures on the OBD-I cars and it seems fairly common to just replace it as a solution...

no direct experience with that problem, my '94 Regal never let me down but it's a shot in the dark for ya...

good luck!

-Derek

mitchell manueo says that for p1640 you have to check the connections at the pcm. look at each connecting pin and make sure it's not bent, burnt, etc. if the viual is ok then you have have to test the connectors themselves, meaning that you have to use a jumper wire and a multimeter to measure the voltage coming from them. it said that the voltage should be near battery voltage.then you have to use a test light to make sure current is passing thru when the engine is off or on.

nonetheless your problem could be a short or a bad pcm. the pcm is located under the dash on the right side.

i know that i am being very vague on answering your question, but there is no way for my to explain it easier. my disk just shows me a couple of diagrams and flow charts to check the problem.

if i waas you i would start pricing a pcm+install.

Well today I replaced the pcm and that was not the problem!! I guess im gonna check to make sure I dont have a bad coil pack or even a bad plug or wire!!

If you get a Quad for 1640, look at the three soleniods it controls. Evap soleniod (on top of charcoal canister), BCS ( on front of supercharger the little part with the electrical connection) and the TCC soleniod (internal, but can be tested at anything over 48mph by tapping the brakes and watching if the rpm jump about 2-500.

I'd venture a guess at vacuum from the evap soleniod or a bad piece of line between the sol and the engine.

Ok so I found the problem it was the center coil pack went out so I bought one and still no spark.. So I than replaced the ignition control module under the coils and it fixed the problem..Now The fucking MOTOR IS KNOCKING...... WHAT IS THIS AND WHY WOULD IT DO THAT???????? Sounds like a main bearing knock and it sounds like it is comming from the center of the motor....PLEASE HELP... If not its up for sale!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks again, Lance

Check your idler pullies and such, listen around with a stethescope (peice of hose will do).

Check the oil?

so today i took off all of the belts and the noise is there!!!! ITS A FUCKING ROD KNOCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Excuse my tongue...Its comming from dead cented of the motor. I looked and the front main seal is pissing oil everywhere.........Know I dont know what to do............

could be noisy, dry bearings if the timing cover is loose and the oil isn't getting to the bearings. Pull the balancer and see if the timing cover is loose?? If so, you might get lucky and have noise but no damage yet. Don't run the engine anymore until you figure this out.

So I put the sc belt on and felt the crank pully and it is tight I could not turn it.. I then took all the belts off again and the noise is still there, I put my ear on the oil pan and I did not hear noise in there..I than listened with a screw driver on top of the water pump area and the noise seems to be comming from there.. So with it pissing oil that bad could there be something wrong in the timing chain area inside like a tensioner for the chain broke? The care runs great though.... Any thoughts on this knock? Otherwise I may take it apart and see. Im ready to put another motor in..
Thanks again, Lance

hard to say from that description. Is there oil coming out somewhere? Could be a broken oil pump gear? No way of knowing without pulling that timing cover off. Check the water pump too - if the water pump bearings are shot it could be making all that racket? Are you taking both belts off? (should eliminate the water pump as a suspect...)

First, yes oil is pissing out between the oil filter and that black plastic piece. And second yes both belts where off when I ran it, I even turned the water pump and that is quiet..And how hard is it to get to the timing chain? And is the the oil pump running off of the timing? And I gotta wait untill tomarrow to get a pulley puller...

Thanks, Lance

Oookay... hold off on the puller - You've got no oil pressure and now I see why. The oil pump is right behind the filter. You are losing oil there... and thus no pressure. I can't remember if the oil pump is bolt-on, but that's where you need to take care of. I don't think you have to pull the timing cover for that piece.

But do u think this will cause the knock? And i guess I have to drop the pan..

Loss of oil pressure? Absolutely. The real question is whether you did any damage. There are two ways to find out:

1) fix the oil problem and see if it still knocks, if not continue driving until knock develops and then look for a motor

or

2) drop the oil pan and check clearances on all bearing surfaces. Given the amount of time this will take, I'd recommend trying 1 first.

So I took it apart and found out that its a spun cam bearing, so imma put a new motor in from ATK.. And which pully shall I go with because its a new motor?


Thanks all, Lance

If you haven't made any other changes, I'd stick with the stock pulley. For the Series I there aren't a lot of mods, but I believe somebody sells rockers. If you were to put in rockers I believe you could safely drop a pulley size, but again this is Series I and I'm not that familiar with it. Just repeating some of what I've seen elsewhere on the board...

Ok then imma just put in the 180 tstat, 104s and fwcai. Thanks a bunch........

Lance