FAQ: How to tune the PCM? (Series II SC)

Hey guys... By looking at these scans what can i adjust to make more power... Thanks for the help
http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=4775

Hmmm shoulda kept going past 2nd, cant really tell if thats false shift KR or not, although 4* is quite high for it to be false. If youre getting those kind of KR numbers in 1st, i would say youre running too small of a pulley unless you wanna throw all kinds of fuel at it. KR should show up in 2nd at the earliest IMO. You still have the 1.9/SSAC/3.15 setup? Did you put the GenV on?

L67 wrote:

Hmmm shoulda kept going past 2nd, cant really tell if thats false shift KR or not, although 4* is quite high for it to be false. If youre getting those kind of KR numbers in 1st, i would say youre running too small of a pulley unless you wanna throw all kinds of fuel at it. KR should show up in 2nd at the earliest IMO. You still have the 1.9/SSAC/3.15 setup? Did you put the GenV on?

gen v is not on yet
your correct on my mod list

Hmm do u have a 3.3 or 3.2 lying around? They might yield some better numbers until you can get the Gen V on. Again it would be more beneficial to see a scan all the way through 2nd and into 3rd as that's where the more serious KR occurs.

L67 wrote:

Hmm do u have a 3.3 or 3.2 lying around? They might yield some better numbers until you can get the Gen V on. Again it would be more beneficial to see a scan all the way through 2nd and into 3rd as that's where the more serious KR occurs.

ya i have a 3.4 BUT i stripped the bolts on the hub so the 3.15 is stuck on there

Well i would be very careful on the throttle until you can get the Gen V on because 4* in 1st is pretty bad. I cant really say the best way to solve the KR in this case, but the safest thing would be to pull the timing so that the PCM doesnt have to work so hard to keep the pistons in tact. Otherwise you could try to pour some fuel in there to cool it down but its still iffy. I would be very cautious until the new blower goes on.

L67 wrote:

Well i would be very careful on the throttle until you can get the Gen V on because 4* in 1st is pretty bad. I cant really say the best way to solve the KR in this case, but the safest thing would be to pull the timing so that the PCM doesnt have to work so hard to keep the pistons in tact. Otherwise you could try to pour some fuel in there to cool it down but its still iffy. I would be very cautious until the new blower goes on.

word
i have been doing WOT 10 times a day on this exact tune...
I still don't know how to "add fuel" or take a

http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=4776

Why after my 1-2 shift did it command 14.7:1 A/F when its set to command 11.2

Your LTFT's look like you're still running lean, since they should be 0 at WOT (and ideally all the time). On your first scan your O2s were in the 700s, way lower than than the 900s they should be in. Were you running E85?

your O2's are way too low at ~700.
i dont know much about tuning, but i would try adding in a lot more fuel, but i doubt that would help much.
You are close to maxing out your maf, so i assume you are going lq4 with the gen V?
next time you scan try getting a longer run in. the point isnt to just go wot from a stop. roll into the throttle and scan to at least 100mph (provided its a safe road).
mark at least these parameters: KR,rpm,O2,LTFT,mph,mafhz &TP%

No need to scan ign volts, but thottle % would be nice. Your scans will be higher res with fewer parameters scanned. STFT is sometimes needed, but probably not here. Boost can probably go away.

I agree, I've never seen 700 O2 values, and if I did I would be concerned. Is there E85 in the mix? Maybe could explain. Also LTFT should lock at 0 at WOT. Why are we not seeing as much KR in the 2nd scan? Did you change something? It's too bad there is no O2 here to look at.

AA wrote:

No need to scan ign volts, but thottle % would be nice. Your scans will be higher res with fewer parameters scanned. STFT is sometimes needed, but probably not here. Boost can probably go away.

I agree, I've never seen 700 O2 values, and if I did I would be concerned. Is there E85 in the mix? Maybe could explain. Also LTFT should lock at 0 at WOT. Why are we not seeing as much KR in the 2nd scan? Did you change something? It's too bad there is no O2 here to look at.

No i was not using E85... I will do another scan tonight after work... with O2 one from 10-100mph

I just got some Nitto extreme street legal drag radials

Please post your full mod list.
Please scan for IPW in addition to what you already have. (it's in your first scan)
Please scan for MAP instead of "boost".
Please scan for TP%
Try to scan in 3rd gear or 2nd to 3rd. There is not enough load in 1st gear to make it count.

Your timing fluctuates quite a bit in that 2nd scan. I would like to see tp%.

http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=4784

O2s look better than before but ideally should be in the 900s (meaning you're still running lean) This can also be seen because your LTFTs are still above 0. What exactly have you been changing?

98riviera98 wrote:

-SSAC
-1.9RR
-3.15 pulley

Those are your mods? Nothing else???? (injectors maybe? list everything please) 1.9s are not enough support to run a pulley that small. Sorry bud, not gonna happen, unless you know a tuning god. I tried for a long time to run a 3.2 pulley with the same (plus 42.5 injectors) and never got it to work. Too much heat from the S/C. You can dump all the fuel you want (I showed 10.5 A/F on the dyno at one point) and it doesn't get any better. Your scans look just like mine from my 3.2 pulley (only you have more KR).

Your only options are:
more fuel
less timing

but I don't think it's going to help much.

I got the Gen V and a 3.3 installed and the N* with the LQ4 maf.. can someone ballpark a MAF table for me please with my mods??? I'm guessing mine is out of wack

Did you load the LQ4 MAF table? I would start there.

98riviera98 wrote:

I got the Gen V and a 3.3 installed and the N* with the LQ4 maf.. can someone ballpark a MAF table for me please with my mods??? I'm guessing mine is out of wack

Start with DHP 1.5 and scan. Then tune. Then scan. Then tune, etc., etc.

AA wrote:

98riviera98 wrote:

I got the Gen V and a 3.3 installed and the N* with the LQ4 maf.. can someone ballpark a MAF table for me please with my mods??? I'm guessing mine is out of wack

Start with DHP 1.5 and scan. Then tune. Then scan. Then tune, etc., etc.

alright.. i have the DHP 1.5 on and the LQ4 tables in... ill post me real questions later after phucking with it a lil more.. thanks guys

ok, i finally got my DHP power tuner and need some help with where to start. the tuner came with the box and two cables. one was the usb interface and the other was the car interface. now there was no software disc. can this software be downloaded? i have a 96 riv that i'd like to do a scan on first to get a baseline. then i want to gradually get into tuning and then into modding. i know the 96 isn't the easiest to work on from reading on this site, but apparently people have done it.

so a step by step would be great. and i'm also trying to get access to the powertuner site, but as of yet i have been unsuccessful.

A couple things:
This is a recent topic. Search is your friend.

Start by joining DHP's powertuner forum. Ownership of the box entitles you to forum membership. On the forum are all the downloads you need, and you will get your activation info through there.

http://www.powrtuner.com/index.php

Your ownership needs to be transferred, I think the previous owner needs to also go on that forum and PM the mod stating the sale/transfer. His membership will be cancelled and yours approved. I forget exactly who he's supposed to contact, but it's in the first few 'public' threads on the forum.

There are tuning guides, step by steps, etc all at the forum.

Once you are up and running, there are a few of us here with some DHP experience who can help you get rolling.

i've registered over there and i'm waiting for approval from the mods. currently it tells me i have no permissions to view anything yet. i also emailed jeff at his gmail acoount to hopefully speed things up. if he's not the guy then let me know who is as i'm eager to get started.

OK guys, I hope I am not gonna be too ridiculed here, but I have no idea what OBD1or OBD2 means. I would also like to get a code reader but I have never decoded an SES light or tuned my car using a PC. Most of the work I have done on the Riv has been maintenance, or replacing things like the water pump or oil pan gasket. How do you decifer a code once you get it? I am not even really sure where the code reader plugs in, but I believe its under the glove compartment? Up here there are no shops or parts stores that do free code readings. Anyway, I little 101 on code reading would be great as well as what brand of code readers are good. Thanks!

BMD wrote:

OK guys, I hope I am not gonna be too ridiculed here, but I have no idea what OBD1or OBD2 means.

On Board Diagnostics
meaning you can scan via the OBD port under the steering column inside the car
OBD1 is used with pre-1995
OBD2 is 1996-current
im not sure what exactly changed between OBD1/2, i think they just made it easier to work with cause diagnostic troubleshooting on an OBD1 car is a PITA.
most scanners/code readers are both OBD 1 and OBD 2 compatible