FAQ: Power Window Problems

Got in the car today after a long day from school and I wanted to hear the motor as I was driving through the parking lot. So I roll the window down a little and I was like "Yeaaah, listen to that motor!". Then it donned on me - my driver window works again!

My question now - why? What was the problem? What is it that made it broke that one day and perfectly fine now as it always was? Very strange, and I did beat on the door the day it stopped working in case something got bumped around in there.

A switch going bad can operate intermittantly. Odds are the switch IS the problem.

...I so don't want to take that door panel off though if it's working. That will be a pain in the ass and my dad is usually one to help me so I don't mess something up. That would mean working in time for him to look at it. So are odds possible it could break down or what?

Sure, it could fail at any time, or not for a long time.

My drivers' side window motor went out a month or so ago. I went to a junkyard and got a motor out of an Aurora, didnt take but 45 mins or so to install, and now works great.

Fix it while the weather is nice. Because boy does it suck when your window gets stuck in the winter...

How do I know for sure it's the switch and not the motor that stopped working temporarily?

In my experience, if the motor is done, it's done. A switch can give you an early warning sign of it's doom.

ok so the door panel removal diagram is really helpful! thanks Jack!

My problem is slightly different though.
My passenger window is stuck up.
I dont think its a motor or switch though I think its just off track.
???
When I push the button to roll it down, only the back half of the window moves (about half an inch) the front of the window (by the side mirror) just kinda jiggles around... Then it stops. I assume its a cheap problem to fix, but I havent got the slightest idea how to do it. I'll most likely end up taking off the panel , but I know you really cant see the window that well.....

Soooooooo?

Take off the panel and feel around in there. IT soudns like it's jumped off the track or lift or whatever.

The 2nd Riv I looked at had a loose window (driver's side) too.

My windows quit working a month or so ago, figured it was the switch in the drivers door as it had been acting up for quite some time. I replaced the switch today with a used one and still no working windows. It's doing the same thing as before. Both window switches in the drivers door won't open the windows and it will lock the doors but not unlock them. Window switch in the passengers also doesn't work but will lock and unlock the doors. I had the breaker under the back seat tested at the dealership and they said it was fine. Is there anything else that could be wrong?

I also read the other posts about taking the switch apart and cleaning it. I'm trying that with my now extra switch, but how exactly does it come apart, I don't want to break it...

hopefully some other list members chime in - I think its the wires flexing by the door hinges have rubbed thru and broken. ALmost sounds like a ground wire is open.

Other thoughs/experiences?

Albertj

I agree with Albert, time to start chasing broken or frayed wiring and check all grounds.
Unless you have a heated garage in MN it might be tough to diagnose.
I would remove door panels and kick panels and inspect / test all wiring.

Remove left door panel and inspect the inboard side of the main wiring harness that it has not rubbed through on the window metal hardware. Be sure to look at it all, it is hard to see sometimes. From center of door to where it goes through door. Good Luck

Thanks for the help guys, I'll start checking the wireing when it gets a little warmer out. Hopefully I can find something.

i found 4 switches at the junkyard that were all bad, so one day i decided to crack it open to see what was going on . there are thin foil metal stripes that make contact with a metal peg. it looks like the stripes get burnt up over a period of time and are not able to make connect. i was able to clean them off with rubbing alchol and cotton swaps. that was the easy part the hard part was getting everything apart and put back together correct. the first i tried to crack open i destroyed and the second one was a lil better but not by much. i just took the other 2 switches and threw them away.

Omg 96reese thats whats wrong with mine. the foil thing is black im gonna clean it and see what happens.

So it finally warmed up enough that I could check into my window issue and see if I had any broken wires and what not. My windows started working again... I haven't even taken the door panels off again to check anything, just hit the switches for the hell of it and the windows went down. They don't always work though so I'm still going to have to look for what's causing that, but it's strange that as soon as the temps start warming up the windows would work again.

The switch is poorly designed. I'm sure if you completely disassemble the switch you'll find the contacts all covered in carbon and barely making the necessary connection. Clean with a little fine sandpaper or scotch-brite, turn the contacts around and wa-la, a like-new window switch!

Is there a trick to get them apart without destroying the case?

I recall small screws on the bottom to remove, I didn't have a problem disassembling the switch. It was a few months ago and I didn't take pictures, sorry...

left work today - first day of new job - and when i started car and tried to put driver window down, all i get is a click sound - no movement. the passenger side is fine as well as the locks so i am wondering if i need to replace the switch or motor - i am trying to order the part today or tomorrow but didnt want to order wrong one?

thanks for you help

I'm guessing motor, but it wouldn't hurt to take the switch apart and clean the contacts. Taking the switch apart is a PITA. I've got pics of the process in this thread -

Link

probably the motor. heres how to check it: take the door panel off, unplug the harness at the window motor, take the battery out of your cordless drill, (everyone should have 1 of these!) 9,12 or 14v will suffice, jump a set of wires from the battery to the window motor either polarity is fine. see if the motor runs. you can reverse polarity for either "up or down"
I find this to be the fastest and easiest way to check window motors. hope this helps.