FAQ: Power Window Problems

Have the same problem with my ‘98. I suspect the switch. Lots of posts on this site regarding that.

my passenger side window stop working it use to work only on the driver side only when i bagged on the door for sum reason then stop i replaced the motor and still nothing could this be the switch cause i hear it clicking r whateva but noting is happening

Both of my windows suddenly stopped working pretty much out of the blue yesterday. I drive to peoples' houses often and it is a pain in the ass not being able to roll my windows down to see house #'s, when I could just a few hours earlier.

I assumed the issue lied with the power window breaker on the left fuse panel under the rear seat since neither window works. So, today, I spent around 2 hours going from place to place to see if anybody had the breaker (looks like part # 12088575). None of the specialty auto parts stores did and both Buick dealerships around me had none in stock (in total, around 8 places). Apparently one dealership about 40-50 miles away has 3 in stock, but I have no time to travel there.

Needless to say, it is a real pain in the ass that a little breaker would be such a nuisance. Just thought I'd let people know that this little 25A circuit breaker is *not* a common thing.

can you swap it with another 25a fuse that is less important to test if that is the problem? Or have you already visually verified the fuse is blown?

It is a metal-encased "circuit breaker" according to the manual. I put a generic 25a fuse in place of the 25a CB and the windows continue to not work.

So it seems the breaker isn't the problem. Could be the window switch connector in the driver's door might have come loose inside. This will cause both windows to stop working.

Well, I replaced the breaker, and the windows still do not work. I have the door panel off right now and I looked at all connections. Everything is connected as far as I can see, though I will open up the box and look inside a bit more. Hmm...

This is where a factory service manual and a multi meter show their worth. Without it, you just guess and replace parts, waste time and money, and get frustrated. If you follow the trouble tree in the FSM, it will isolate the fault, and save you money and/or frustration. Yup, it's time consuming to one degree or the other. I can't imagine why anyone who owns one of these cars thinks they can get away without one. It was one of the first things I bought after the car. As good as this site is, you need the FSM. If not now, certainly in the future if you keep the car.

You're right, Larry. It would probably be in my best interests. You have to realize that I have less than half the number (21) of years on this planet as you and I'm learning as time goes on. I just get aggravated at the 98 sometimes. To top it off, my HVAC controls are now showing all temperatures with a negative sign in front of them, and the last time I started the car up, the unit started blaring this ear-piercing beep that wouldn't stop until I turned the car off. When it rains, it pours!

ZEP wrote:

You're right, Larry. It would probably be in my best interests. You have to realize that I have less than half the number (21) of years on this planet as you and I'm learning as time goes on. I just get aggravated at the 98 sometimes. To top it off, my HVAC controls are now showing all temperatures with a negative sign in front of them, and the last time I started the car up, the unit started blaring this ear-piercing beep that wouldn't stop until I turned the car off. When it rains, it pours!

Zach,
I understand. When I first bought my Riviera, the automatic level control wasn't working. I went through the trouble tree used to diagnose the "rear of car low". It took me a few days to get through the entire procedure. They tell you to measure between different points for voltage and resistances. It can be kind of tedious, as you don't always understand what they are asking you to do. I found myself skipping around the FSM, at end views and wiring schematics, to figure things out. In the end, I narrowed it down to a single wire between the level sensor, and the ALC relay under the rear seat. I never would have found this wire without the FSM.

The HVAC unit is trouble prone. The solder joints are not done very well. There is a guy on Ebay that goes through them and corrects any problems. There is a thread on repairing them in this forum I believe. Good luck.

After ordering service manuals about 2 weeks ago that have *still* not shipped (probably won't), I decided to take a look again in my rare free time, I found that the wiring harness in the door jamb was damaged. There was no ground to the master window switch in the driver's side door, and the ground wire was damaged. I fixed the wire and the windows work fine now.

Been happening off and on for a couple years but since it's warmed up outside dramatically but drivers window doesnt go down most days. I can hear it click every time I hit the switch. Is it most likely the motor?

Started this morning. The switch on the door was stuck. I couldn't push it forward or back. After playing with it a little more, it finally gave and went in the down position but I heard a pop sound. After using it more I noticed the "auto down" feature no longer worked. However, the window would go up and down. Fast forward to about 20 minutes ago. I put the window down and now it will only go back up part of the way (about two inches from the top is where it stops). I can hear a motor sound when I hit the button so I'm thinking that possibly the regulator finally took a crap on me?

Can anyone expound? I'm hoping to get the part ordered and this fixed asap so I don't get too much water in the cabin.

Thanks for moving Aaron

Sounds like the regulator to me. I had this very same thing to happen with my Reatta. I wouldn't put too much strain on the motor as you might burn it up.

DEMonte1997 wrote:

Started this morning. The switch on the door was stuck. I couldn't push it forward or back. After playing with it a little more, it finally gave and went in the down position but I heard a pop sound. After using it more I noticed the "auto down" feature no longer worked. However, the window would go up and down. Fast forward to about 20 minutes ago. I put the window down and now it will only go back up part of the way (about two inches from the top is where it stops). I can hear a motor sound when I hit the button so I'm thinking that possibly the regulator finally took a crap on me?

Can anyone expound? I'm hoping to get the part ordered and this fixed asap so I don't get too much water in the cabin.

Thanks for moving Aaron

Aieeeee... last time this happened to me I had the dealer fix it, they lubed the regulator and replaced the motor.

Used to be the motor and regulator came as one assembly from GM RPO. Now you get regulators from junkyards and motors from Cardone. I think there are some NOS motor/regulator sets still out there smoewheres.

My window stopped going up and down. When i would push the button i could hear the moter but it would"nt roll up/down. Got a new regulater from a riv at the junkyard for 8$ and it works fine now. I figured maybe some water got in.

Stupid question. I figure on replacing the motor, switch and regulator while I'm in there. The motor isn't riveted onto the regulator is it? I don't have the door skin off now or pics to look at. I don't want some sort of nightmare here. I'm 95% sure this is a regulator/switch problem but I might as well get the motor as well.

What I was thinking of doing is order the used regulator and switch and get a new motor from rockauto (via a Dorman unit). http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=534470

DEMonte1997 wrote:

Stupid question. I figure on replacing the motor, switch and regulator while I'm in there. The motor isn't riveted onto the regulator is it? I don't have the door skin off now or pics to look at. I don't want some sort of nightmare here. I'm 95% sure this is a regulator/switch problem but I might as well get the motor as well.

What I was thinking of doing is order the used regulator and switch and get a new motor from rockauto (via a Dorman unit). http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=534470

The motor is held on with 3 bolts. https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t7151p60-write-up-window-motor-replacement The pictures aren't working right now, but I will try to upload the ones that I have saved here in a bit.

My passenger side window goes up and down slowly when I use the switch on the drivers side of the car, but when I reach over and use the passenger side switch it moves much faster. Does that mean I need to clean/replace the switch on the drivers side of the car?

I might try pulling the driver door panel and bypassing the switch to see if the motor works 100%.

AA wrote:

I might try pulling the driver door panel and bypassing the switch to see if the motor works 100%.

The passenger side window motor was replaced a few years ago, so it still should be good. I think I will try it anyway and also check to see if the switch is dirty.

Thanks for the information guys. I found a regulator in CT that might be affordable. Might snag the motor and switch from this yard for good measure. Hoping my regulator might be fine and only need some recon/lube. Will take lots of pics and keep y'all posted.

Picked up the regulator. $30 from the yard ain't bad. Looks very good. They probably cleaned it up a bit. Can anyone tell me where to lube this sucker up? *insert dirty joke here* I'll throw a pic up if that helps.

Got into this yesterday. The switch was bad.

Just to recap the symptoms: The auto down feature stopped working shortly after the button started binding. Then the window was having trouble going up. I swapped switches and relubed the regulator along with guides. Window travels very quickly now.

I have an extra regulator if someone needs it. Very good condition out of a lower mileage 1997 car.

If you don't mind, where did you find the switch, and how much did it cost?