FAQ: Power Window Problems

frequently we find a bad wire in the drivers or passengers door where the wires fold in the boot. Check those wires too.

But the switches have also gone bad in the past. Could be either.

Thanks guys, Ill check the switch.

I had the drivers side window switch break on me before. It just needed a new switch and is was as good as new. I think someone did a write up about it, but I don't remember who did it.

If it works from the driver side switch, then I'd say the passenger switch is bad. The only wires that go through the door pass through are from the driver side to the passenger side switch. The passenger switch control wires are only inside the passenger door. If I could show you the schematics, you'd understand.

Easy test.....unplug the window motor. Connect a DVOM (for volts) to the connector for the motor. Doesn't matter which way, as all the switch does is reverse polarity. Hit the down button, you should see + or - 12V. Now hit the up button. The polarity should reverse. If there is no voltage on the up side (but works from the driver side), the switch is bad.

You are all correct I'm sure. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't some security feature (like child lockout). Although that wouldn't make sense for rolling it up, maybe down but not up

Did you check the wiring harness that is hidden in the boot between the door and the A Pillar of the car.?
Very popular place for wires to break due to the door opening and closing and flexing those wires.

I garauntee its your switch, both my 95 and my buddies 97 had the same problem. I had a new switch put in and everything works fine again.

Rickw wrote:

Did you check the wiring harness that is hidden in the boot between the door and the A Pillar of the car.?
Very popular place for wires to break due to the door opening and closing and flexing those wires.

The only wires that are in there are from the driver door switch....he said that works

Abaddon wrote:

If it works from the driver side switch, then I'd say the passenger switch is bad. The only wires that go through the door pass through are from the driver side to the passenger side switch. The passenger switch control wires are only inside the passenger door. If I could show you the schematics, you'd understand.

Easy test.....unplug the window motor. Connect a DVOM (for volts) to the connector for the motor. Doesn't matter which way, as all the switch does is reverse polarity. Hit the down button, you should see + or - 12V. Now hit the up button. The polarity should reverse. If there is no voltage on the up side (but works from the driver side), the switch is bad.

Good points, and I gave you a + for it... I'm just surprised that the passenger switch would ever see enough use to burn out. (God it pisses me off that they could make such crap switches, while the originals on my '69 still work!)

Abaddon wrote:

Rickw wrote:

Did you check the wiring harness that is hidden in the boot between the door and the A Pillar of the car.?
Very popular place for wires to break due to the door opening and closing and flexing those wires.

The only wires that are in there are from the driver door switch....he said that works

I understand now. So, you confirm the wiring is good by the fact that the drivers side switch is controlling the passenger side window properly.
I did not know that the Drivers side door feeds the power circuit for the pass side door switch.
Makes sense now.
Thanks.
Rick

Eldo wrote:

Good points, and I gave you a + for it... I'm just surprised that the passenger switch would ever see enough use to burn out. (God it pisses me off that they could make such crap switches, while the originals on my '69 still work!)

Eh. It's a matter of luck I think. I haven't had any switch go bad yet. I have friends that go through 'em like crazy. Doesn't make sense.

Rickw wrote:

I understand now. So, you confirm the wiring is good by the fact that the drivers side switch is controlling the passenger side window properly.
I did not know that the Drivers side door feeds the power circuit for the pass side door switch.
Makes sense now.
Thanks.
Rick

Yep. Sry bout that. I wasn't tryin to be like YOUR WRONG! lol. The circuit is very simple, but cool actually. You have a FSM right?

Abaddon wrote:

Eldo wrote:

Good points, and I gave you a + for it... I'm just surprised that the passenger switch would ever see enough use to burn out. (God it pisses me off that they could make such crap switches, while the originals on my '69 still work!)

Eh. It's a matter of luck I think. I haven't had any switch go bad yet. I have friends that go through 'em like crazy. Doesn't make sense.

Well, at least our window switches are Japanese, unlike my new, spare door handle that's Chinese...
(But - I've already bought a spare master window switch and gone through it, just in case! )

Ok guys this started about a week ago. I rolled the passenger window all the way down and it wouldnt go back up,using either switch. So i then went and bought a used passenger side switch which they tested. I then took apart the door panel and just hooked up the newer switch. The window stil wouldnt work but i could hear a clicking noise from the motor when I pushed down on the passenger switch. I also plugged in the old switch and it did the same thing. So the switch wasnt my problem.

So I took the motor out and made the window go up manually, so i caould drive it. I then bought a used motor which also was tested and it went up and down when tested. I then installed the newer motor and now when i use the passenger switch the window will go down not up. But when I use the drivers switch the passenger window doesnt do anything. So now I am thinking that maybe the drivers switch is bad. My drivers window goes up and down fine.

So conclusion is that the passenger switch will make the window go down not up and unlock the doors. The drivers side switch wil unlock doors, roll the drivers window up and down but it wont do anything with the passenger widow.

Has anyone else expierienced something like this. Should i try replacing the whole drivers side switch and see if that fixes. Could the drivers switch really cause all of that to happpen.

This is a mystery.

...i know this will sound like a PITA but do you think you might use a 12v continuity light or meter and recheck switchess, the motor and wiring while it's hooked up? If you need more on how to tel if the voltage readings are off o r whatever please repost. The light will confirm that the switches are passing power. The meter will tell you for instance, if the switches or wiring has developed high resisitance for some reason.

At the same time do you think you might recheck your window regulators, maybe something froze and got bent over the winter, so you could move it manually but the gears are stuck? or maybe the lube has dried to the point that it is gummy (seeing that at times). I suspect this is not a problem though.

What else do you think might be wrong?

I'd be checking the wires in the rubber pass through. Sounds like you may have one that's broken.

Abaddon wrote:

I'd be checking the wires in the rubber pass through. Sounds like you may have one that's broken.

Bam you get the prize again Abaddon... this makes a lot of sense, the rubber strain relief link is a known problem area and wires broke that way inside it might well act different door open versus door closed.

Yup, this is what I found on the driver side...

Just pull back the boot on both side and see what shows.

Abaddon is "THE MAN"

Cmon now.....we still don't know if neb's car has a broken wire yet! BMD just posted a pic of what he found to show neb what to look for......but thanks?

Ok well the problem ended up being a broken wire on the drivers side. Nothing wrong with either window swithes or either motors. It is crazy how the drivers side can cause the passenger window to only go down and not up.

The broken wire may have been caused when putting the new doors in who knows. But it is fixed now. Theo nly other problem I am having now is the mirror do not work. They were tooken apart for painting. The mirror makes the sound like it is moving but it doesnt. My guestimate would be something internally on both of them. So i will take them apart sometime. Any other suggestions?

nebstewart07 wrote:

Ok well the problem ended up being a broken wire on the drivers side. Nothing wrong with either window swithes or either motors. It is crazy how the drivers side can cause the passenger window to only go down and not up.

The broken wire may have been caused when putting the new doors in who knows. But it is fixed now. Theo nly other problem I am having now is the mirror do not work. They were tooken apart for painting. The mirror makes the sound like it is moving but it doesnt. My guestimate would be something internally on both of them. So i will take them apart sometime. Any other suggestions?

driver or pass side mirror, and autodim or not?

I think you may need to just snap them on further. When you pull the lenses back off, check to make sure nothing is broken or missing. If everything looks okay, try warming the plastic with a heat gun then firmly pressing it on. Make sure it is aligned. I do this alot and it still stresses me out pushing so hard on the glass. But it will work.

Try the thread below...

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t3900-write-up-exterior-mirror-disassembly

Driver's side window won't roll down. I'm guessing its the motor. How do I replace this, get the door panel off, tricks to doing the job? I've never attempted this, so details are needed. Checked Advance and they have the window lift motor for $34.

Forgot to add, this is on a '98 Riviera