Hard to start

If the mixture is just rich enough and not extremely rich it can wash the upper cylinder walls of oil, naturally cause some damage to cylinders and rings and appear to be blowing blue smoke, as it washes the oil away.
If it is very rich mixture then you will certainly get black smoke.

Ok so I guess it is oil, so does that mean that the valve seals are bad? Ok 1 more thing is the s2 block the same as the s1?

Not necessarily and it's difficult to troubleshoot oil seals over the internet.
Not trying to be a wise ass but it really is hard to figure out without performing more tests.
Compression test.
Hook up scan tool and make sure fuel system still isn't the problem.
Ignition system test, Etc.
A lot of things should be ruled out before you start replacing major components.
I'm not sure about the S1 and S2 blocks, someone else may be able help answer that one.

Rickw wrote:

Not necessarily and it's difficult to troubleshoot oil seals over the internet.
Not trying to be a wise ass but it really is hard to figure out without performing more tests.
Compression test.
Hook up scan tool and make sure fuel system still isn't the problem.
Ignition system test, Etc.
A lot of things should be ruled out before you start replacing major components.
I'm not sure about the S1 and S2 blocks, someone else may be able help answer that one.

well I was going to do a compression test this weekend, I dont have a scan tool yet, I need to find one for obd 1.5. What all could cause it to smoke?

thanks for all ur help and happy thanksgiving

Okay RIcos - we have been at this for several days.

No offense, but there is nothing we can dip your car in and make it run. Since you asked us the first time, what have you actually done on the car? Please give us a list of what you modified before the trouble started, and since you posted your questions a second list of what you have done to fix the troubles.

Albertj

albertj wrote:

Okay RIcos - we have been at this for several days.

No offense, but there is nothing we can dip your car in and make it run. Since you asked us the first time, what have you actually done on the car? Please give us a list of what you modified before the trouble started, and since you posted your questions a second list of what you have done to fix the troubles.

Albertj

Ok wow, hey Im just tring figure why the car is hard to start and why it burning oil, the car has been doing this sence I bought it, and the only thing I've modified on it was the FWI with K&N filter, I havent change the ICV yet, I have cleaned it and the MAF, Oh and I check the fuel pessure. I've done the plugs, put AL104s in and change the oil. Thanks for all ur help Albert

I see.

So far you've been told (go back some posts) why the car would smoke. It smokes becasue it's burning oil. You probably have seen the followign links already, but in case you have not they go into more detail about oil burning:

http://newcarbuyingguide.com/index.php/news/main/1944/event=view

http://www.2carpros.com/topics/oilburn.htm

As you can see, figuring out what's going on is more art than science, so to speak, and will at som epoint require you tear into (or pay someone to tear into) the engine.

You've been told about geting a compresion test, which you said you'd do soon. By the way an alternative to that would be to take the car to a dealer or (large) independent mechanic where your car can be "scoped" on a diagnostic macine that will check engine health by running a 'cylinder balance test' - this is NOT the same as a compression test but will tell a skilled mechanic if there should be more work to determine that there is a mechanical problems. Depending on where you go it would run $60 to $100. Usually Goodyear and FIrestone auto centers have the things. If at all possible you want a compression tes, though - that wil tell you more. Basically, the cylinder balance test is electrical, and makes good guesses about engine problems based on an electrical feedback phenomoenon. Compression testing directly measures critical engine components for performance without disassembly - at various points in the engine's combustion cycle one should observe certain compression characteristics. Follow this link to see one company's series of diagnostic achines and learn more about them (this will also give you an idea why they think they can charge you $100 for a test): http://www1.snapon.com/compareplatforms.nws

Also come to think of it you need to be sure you did not damage the MAF when you cleaned it.

Happy Thanksgiving, and we'll see what you come up with. I think the problem may be that oil burning is not normally minor, the 'screwdriver' modifications that people make to cars do not really fix such problems, and added to that I suspect you may not have expected it could/would involve this much work. Don't give up (yet) though.

Albertj

whan I do my compresion test what should it be at?

Hmmm... The lowest reading cylinder must read 70% or more of the comression of the highest cylinder, and the minimum reading has to be 100 PSI or better.

Here is info about checking compression - you probably already know this but there are likely some reading this note that do not.

As you know, engine has to be up to temperature (which might be tough given your engine issues - but you'll figure something out) to test compression. And you will need a helper, or a way to start the engine while you are reading the compression gauge.

Clean the area around the spark plugs - an air compressor with a blow nozzle atachment shoudl work fine. You must keep dirt out of the cylinders, so blow it all away before you start. Next, mark the plug wires if they are not already - then remove 'em all and remove then the plugs. Then remove the ECM fuse (you will have to find it) in order to disable the fuel and ignition. Next, block the throttle wide open. Not sure how you do this on this engine - maybe use vise grip pliers to hod the throttle cable in open position but I'm afraid you might crimp the cable - again, you'll have to figure something out.

Next, put the compression gauge in the #1 lug hole, and (have your helper to) crank the engine so you get at least seven comppression strokes.

- in healthy engine compression will jump up pretty fast.
- if you have worn wirngs, the compression will be low on the first stroke and increase on successive strokes.
- if you have a craked head, leaking valves or a blown head gasket, teh compression will read low and stay low.

note the highest reading you get.

repeat the readings for the other 5 cylinders.

compare the readings per the 100 PSI/70% specification.

If your readings are below normal, you can repeat the test to find out more - add some engine oil to each cylinder then re-test it in turn. If the compression does not go up then you most likely have a valve or head problem.

If you have readings that are wildly high you probably have carbon build-up in the cylinders.

If the compression varies greatly between cylinders, you could take the car to a mechanic and have them do a leakdown test - this will point out where the leakage is and how bad.