engine stalling not always...

Hi all need some help here is the deal:

Engine starts ok have had 0 problems until 2 days ago was driving and engine sputered reved up and died... let it sit for a bit and started up agian no problem... I figured clogged filter... so Replaced filter and drove around with no problem then today did it again at a stop light??? I was able to get it to my office and started it a few times and it would idle rough... I let it cool off then idles fine? any Ideas would help I will check air filter and MAF sensor anything else I should look for? I do not think it is the pump as it will start every time even if rough... Thanks for all your help BTW it is a 95 riv 0 mods 67k miles...

check and see if there are any OBD II codes. If so, would be smart to fix those problems first, or at least clear the codes and see if they happen again. If you have a laptop computer with serial port you can buy a dongle and get free software from www.obd-2.com (Alex Peper, CarCode software, I use this software).

If no codes - I would consider replacing the crank sensor. It goes bad from a combination of age and engine hours; it's a hall effect sensor and when it starts to fail you will get intermittent no-start or start-and-quit or poor-running -- and eventually the car won't run at all. And, when it goes bad it will not set a code even though there is a code for it in the OBDII code table.

Also if your fuel pump has not been replaced, might pay to check. One way to check is when the car is cold, in a quiet place sit in drivers seat and turn ignition to On (NOT to START). If pump is working you will hear it come on and whirr for a couple seconds. If it runs with any hesitation or intermittancy in the startup sequence then wha-la you have found part of your problem.

By the way, you want to tell us which filter you replaced? there is more than one.

Albertj

albert,
Where do you buy a dongle from?
I have a laptop and did not know about the free software. That would be helpful.

go to the web site, www.obd-2.com, and surf around. It's a low tech site, won't be hard to find the dongle. Alex will sell you the parts for less than $30 or a finished one for $100-something. I bought a finished one. Works fine.

Albertj

Thanks for the info... I replaced the inline fuel filter that is located in front of the rear wheel on the driver side where is the other one? I will definetly go and buy the dongle and I will try the fuel pump test... anything else you can think of that I may be overlooking... the car drives great for the most part until it gets bucking a bit it reminds me of the carb days where you would have blockage in the fuel filter.... does not do it all the time... here is another piece of info if I accelerate it in park the rpm hits about 3 and then starts to cut off (Fluctuate) let me know if this info helps...

djlorenzana wrote:

if I accelerate it in park the rpm hits about 3 and then starts to cut off (Fluctuate)

That's supposed to happen.

My 95 is OBD-I so the cable and software from www.obd-2.com might not help.

My car has stalled while driving on two occasions over the past 14 years. The first time was due to a faulty oxygen sensor and the second time was due to problem with the EGR valve. A scan tool was needed to obtain the fault code.

A cable for the 95 is here:
http://www.aldlcable.com/sc/details.asp?item=aldlobd2

dunno about software though...

I had an OBD1 cable for my 93 lesabre, but never could get any software to work properly on it.

For the riv i just use a scantool from actron, it was an older model I got off amazon for like 95CAD bucks, scans everything needed on the 95 riv

Lionfish - go to the OBD-2 site anyway, I think Alex has what you need.

Diego - is not another fuel filter, I just could not tell from your first post which filter you were talking about. Based on what you are telling us and the age of your car I suspect it is the crank sensor. They *all* go at some point. And this problem does not usually set a code.

Albertj

OK sounds good... I will call the dealer and have this replaced how much should this run give or take?
I will also replace the fuel pump and have the s-belts replaced at the same time along with the spark plugs and the spark plug wires...

Can anyone say $Caching$ I hope all this takes care of it...things I will do myself
Fuel pump
replace oil pan gasket
spark plugs maybe if I can get to the ones in the rear of the engine (will check when I am replacing oil pan gasket)

Dealer replacement
Sbelts
crank sensor.

Diego,
If you can change the oilpan gasket- from what i understand- you should be able to change out the belts on a '95 too. They say its a 5-min job https://rivperformance.editboard.com/series-ii-engine-transmission-f4/write-up-replacing-belts-and-pulleys-t725-30.htm#57561
Look at page 2 almost at the bottom.
Might save you a few bucks... My local dealer is veery proud of their work, so any time i can avoid goin there i will

I will take a look at this my concern is messing up the oilpan due to pressure or droppage... But will take a look at seeing what I can devise.. I used to have an engine (holder) /\--------j-------/\ that would hold the engine but left it in Panama... will see what the local part store can lend (rent) thanks for the suggestion.

What i can see the 95 riv doesnt require the engine mount t b takin off for a belt or pulley change... no need for an engine hoist. (this is just what i read- i dont have a '95)

its true. No jacking of the engine or removing engine mount for the 95. Just grab a wrench to lever the tensioner pulleys back while you unhook the belt. Do it for both belts, and its done. Its literally 5 min.

Edit: and for spark plugs, its not really that hard for the back ones if you go from under the car. From the top the big black rectangle vacuum res. gets in the way.

^ what he said

Diego - dealer charged me around $140 to replace crank sensor I think.

Albertj

cool thanks now that I know that I do not need to remove engine mounts will do this weekend... I have the belts in my trunk along with spark plugs etc.. I will have dealer do the crank sensor as I do not have the right tools for that....

Yeah that makes sense. Getting to crank snesor is not too bad but you do need a special tool to remove the harmonic balancer.

Be sure they pull codes in case there is some other problem to take care of, as long as it is apart. Also consider replacing the front seal at that time, it will probably fail sometimes before ~200,000 miles.

Albert

Hey guys I forgot to type in the fix for this ... it was the fuel pump. I replaced and since then fuel flows with no issues... thanks BTW for all the sugestions.