Stalling/rough idle w/SES and Traction lights

My Riv stalled out on my mom when she was driving it, and starting it up tonight as soon as I got home showed me it has a rough idle(almost died twice idling for 2 minutes) and the SES and Traction lights are on. I knew about the SES and thought the crankshaft position sensor was going again, which would have been covered by the dealership's Goodwrench guarantee...but I didn't know about the traction light.

What could this problem be? It's going to the dealer on Monday to get diagnosed and fixed, so we're on a countdown! It idles at 1,000rpm but goes high and low, sometimes too low, and stalls.

check the iac valve. when they get clogged they can induce some of those symptoms

Sounds like its acting kind of how mine does with a faulty MAF sensor. Try running it with the sensor unplugged.

Where is the IAC(idle air control, right?) valve to be checked?


Also, where do I unplug the MAF?


And who the hell gave me a negative rating on this post? I have a problem and I need help!

the iac is to the left of the maf sensor. it seems to nest just slightly underneath the throttle body. it is held in place by 2 tiny black philip head bolts.
go to auto zone.com and type in air idle control valve and it will show a great pic so you can do a visual and fix it. if its really filthy only use electrical cleaner. its like $8 a can

Ok, tomorrow morning I'll pluck that off and take a look. If it's not the IAC, which is like a $30 part on rockauto...it might be the MAF...which is a lot more expensive.


If I clean the IAC and that fixes the problem, how long usually until the lights go off?

im not sure but the 95 can be bitchy,she wants a scanner to erase the codes. i have not heard if unlpuging the computer resets on the 95 but if so just unplug it. anybody with a 95 done this before?

I suppose as long as the sensor is fixed and it idles ok, the lights shouldn't be much of a problem, right? Or will it continue to think that it has the same problem?

IBx1 wrote:

I suppose as long as the sensor is fixed and it idles ok, the lights shouldn't be much of a problem, right? Or will it continue to think that it has the same problem?

If the problem is fixed, the SES/TC lights will turn off after a certain amount of ignition cycles (3?) where the problem is not present. You can also try unplugging the negative battery cable for 20ish minutes. So you will most likely still have the trouble lights on for s short period after solving the issue. Luckily with this type of problem it should be quite obvious when the faulty part is repaired.

i had my codes cleared briefly a while back after we thought we fixed whatever problem i had at the time,and i could swear that the bitch ran better for awhile.so..i cant say for sure but my mech friend sez they don't operate at full efficiency until the codes are cleared. now that you'll keep her ,buy a scanner?

I wouldn't want to mess with the battery since that also resets other stuff. Man I am praying right now that this sensor is what's wrong and that cleaning it will fix it.


I bought an OBD1 scanner for my car, except I have a '95 so it's the OBD1.5 that noone in the universe sells.

robotennis61 wrote:

i had my codes cleared briefly a while back after we thought we fixed whatever problem i had at the time,and i could swear that the bitch ran better for awhile.so..i cant say for sure but my mech friend sez they don't operate at full efficiency until the codes are cleared. now that you'll keep her ,buy a scanner?

It may run better for a little bit if the PCM believes there is nothing wrong (Runs Good Fuel Spark Table etc), however if you were able to clear the codes and they did not come back, then there was most likely some sort of one time error that set off the SES. Otherwise the light would illuminate again upon the failure of the part.

IBx1 wrote:

I wouldn't want to mess with the battery since that also resets other stuff. Man I am praying right now that this sensor is what's wrong and that cleaning it will fix it.


I bought an OBD1 scanner for my car, except I have a '95 so it's the OBD1.5 that noone in the universe sells.

The battery wont ruin anything, all it will do is clear your trip miles and clock.

So should I still go to the dealer on Monday if this fixes the problem and the lights aren't off by then? Also I haven't really been to my battery yet, might be an interesting adventure. I'll save $100 and pull my seat cushion if the ignition cycles don't clear it up.

IBx1 wrote:

So should I still go to the dealer on Monday if this fixes the problem and the lights aren't off by then?

I would say dont waste your time, just drive the car a fair bit this weekend and the lights should quickly reset (After you "fix" it).

Alright, thank you guys so much for the quick responses. I hope you guys are right on this one and it seems like this is what's wrong, so I'll let you know tomorrow what happens!! I'm off to bed for now; being awake since 10 this morning and being in the car for 3 hours sucks.

1.5? ive never heard of that? i just bought a actron scanner # cp9145
now you got me shitten in my boots. i hope i ordered the right one?
did you take back the scanner you bought for a refund?

I tried to return it but the amazon seller I bought it from never responded. Basically, we have a 16(or 12, whichever the OBD2 is) pin connector, like the OBD2 models, but it's an OBD1 computer.

The MAF sensor is located on/in the throttle body, im not exactly sure how it is on the 95's, but its probably the same procedure to unplug it as on the newer cars. Just take a flathead screwdriver and carefully undo the clip on the plug leading into it.

If I can't find the IAC then I'll post a pic tomorrow morning with what I think it is circled in red, say around 10 maybe?

the little black cylinder to the left of the maf IS the iac. cept on the 95 its slightly underneath the throttle body. look a little different too

Oh ok, thanks. I figured it was but you can never be sure until you're looking at the car with your own eyes.

My my, there are a lot of "idle thoughts" around here lately...

I know, I know, it a terrible pun, but there IS a rash of no-idle posts this week. No cold idle, rough idle with banging noises, bad idle with lights on, etc... If they all turn out to be plugged or dead IACs, we'll have to combine them into one thread.

Ok guys, here's the deal. I went out and couldn't get to the IAC. I see it, but the fit is so tight that none of my screwdrivers would get to it. So instead, I unplugged the MAF and tried to start it. Didn't want to start at all. Plugged it back in, fired right up, and idled eerily perfect. The traction light went off, but the SES light is still on. Started it up 4 times and it's still there.

I want to look at that IAC sensor. How do the '95 guys get to it? Ratchet with a phillips attatchment? My SES is the only light on now, Traction light is off.


Edit: Traction light is back on. How do you get that sensor off? The bolts seem welded on and they're really not in a convenient place on the '95. Should I use some carefully placed WD-40?

A product called PB Blaster works better at loosening bolts than WD40. Also, use a 6-point socket to avoid stripping the bolt head.

I do not believe your idle issues and TC light are related.