Stalling/rough idle w/SES and Traction lights

IBx1 wrote:

I don't mind the materials,

Ahhh but you do! The bolt probably wouldn't be so difficult to remove if it wasn't aluminum to steel and/or had some antisieze on it from the factory.

Oh, never mind, I do have the space for the ring. Just got finished prying the old one out!


The materials don't bother me so much as the LOCTITE on the screws.

Cool. Just think, now you can change thermostats any time you want with no gasket scraping... Winter coming? Take 5 minutes and pop the regular 195 back in! Summer's here? Another 5 minutes and you can drop the drilled 180 back in place!

By the way, didja get the screw out yet?

Nope, we're searching for our mini vise-grips to try and turn the bolt/screw thing. Probably not going to happen until tomorrow when I ask a friend if I can borrow his pair, if he has a pair.


Do the thermostats just pull out? And what exactly is the advantage of a 180* model? Seems like it's just sitting in there...

IBx1 wrote:

Nope, we're searching for our mini vise-grips to try and turn the bolt/screw thing. Probably not going to happen until tomorrow when I ask a friend if I can borrow his pair, if he has a pair.

Do the thermostats just pull out? And what exactly is the advantage of a 180* model? Seems like it's just sitting in there...

Yes, the thermostat just pulls out with the square O-ring. In fact, it might be a false memory, but I think there's a slot on the inner surface of the ring that the stat fits into, so there is sealing rubber on both the top & bottom... Someone ring in if I'm remembering this wrong.

As far as the stat, I'm just used to "everyone" in this forum changing out the stock 195 model for a better model (heavier duty) set at 180, because of performance mods... If you haven't played with your blower, and you don't have any KR issues, than you can keep the 195.

I just checked - It is grooved, and they call it the "Thermostat Seal" : http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=79815

I think it's also tapered on the outside, so the smaller side goes in downward.

Yes, the sealing ring has a channel in the Inside Diameter for the thermostat to fit into before you install the stat into the block.
And also, the seal is tapered and the smaller diameter goes into the block / hole first.

And, for your engine and the winter, stay with a stock 190 or 195* thermostat.
Whatever stock is supposed to be, I forget already.

Great minds think alike, eh...

Thanks to the pair of needle-nose vise grips I just bought:




Now, the top part looked like a perfect dome until I wiped it up with a paper towel. The spring is black and there's some carbon I can't get off. It doesn't wobble or anything, and it feels solid altogether, so what's the best way of cleaning it? I know it'll have to be completely dry before putting it back in since this handles airflow into the engine.

By the way, I'm replacing those goddamn screw bolts with these capscrews(the stocks and these are M4 metric size):

Put it all back together, bled the system, and it ran fine for about 5 minutes, cut out, and was very hard to start again. Now it's idling alright at about 800rpm...lights went out but they're back on again.

Well, you got some good experience this weekend, but since you've got that warranty, it's time to have the dealer get the codes out of it...

The car was running alright so I took it for a test run. Started hiccupping with any throttle and stalled out. I ducked into a parking lot, literally ran home to get moms car, and I'm waiting for AAA to tow my car to the dealer so I can follow it up.

IBx1 wrote:

The car was running alright so I took it for a test run. Started hiccupping with any throttle and stalled out. I ducked into a parking lot, literally ran home to get moms car, and I'm waiting for AAA to tow my car to the dealer so I can follow it up.

Probably a good idea to just get it scanned at this point, hard to suggest many repair routes without any confirmed DTCs.

I'll be getting a call tomorrow morning once they diagnose and proceed to fix my car. Let's hope it's the crankshaft sensor I thought it was.

Crankshaft, camshaft, right and left rear wheel speed sensors are all throwing codes. They're looking right now, in the 2nd hour of diagnosis, for any electrical issues since that's what they think is going on to trip the codes all at once.

Actually, the mechanic I use is the one who's looking at it right now. Couldn't tow it to his house last night because this was an emergency.

It's been 4 hours and they're still diagnosing the exact problem. I'm screwed.

IBx1 wrote:

It's been 4 hours and they're still diagnosing the exact problem. I'm screwed.

Maybe they will give you a break on the labor, the main thing is though that it gets fixed. Even though you may end up paying a good bit of money, it will be worth it to get the car fixed.

Lets guess at the repair bill...
I say $586.34
Bert

I have a $10 bill in my wallet. $17.86 in the savings account, and $5.58 on my debit card. Might be getting $200 from the grandmother for Christmas. They're not in the labor yet, they're still diagnosing, but it's only the 3rd hour so far, I stand corrected.

Ilan,
Do you have any previous experience with these mechanics / technicians.?
Have they worked on your car before and do trust them to have good troubleshooting skills.?
If so, then hopefully they won't charge for every hour of diagnostics they do and hopefully they will find the problem soon and it won't be an expensive part or parts.
Good Luck

it sucks that you had trouble with the aic valve. i was in the same situation a couple weeks ago and had a friend of mine who is a master mechanic go through the car and found several items that needed attention. he only charged me 1 hour labor but i had to shell big oem dealer prices for the parts but i did not have much of a choice. the car is a daily driver and needed to get back on the road. if these mechanics are anygood they will uncover problems that you will have to pay for now and not have to worry about the car for many years.at least until you turn 21,find a girl ,knock her up,move out,have a kid, develop a thirst for imported beers and find that you dont quite know when or how you aquired a taste for fine oak furniture?

Well they called, and the problem disappeared. Might be temperature related or something, but they'll hold onto it until tomorrow to test it the next morning.

The ignition wires were routed incorrectly and there was electrical current bleeding out, causing interferance with other components. They're just charging for the 3 hours diagnostics yesterday, so after tax it's $334.11. Might not get to pick up the car today though.

Did they fix a problem that they created in the first place, when it was in there before.??????

I don't think I've had them, or anyone, do anything regarding ignition wires.

Are you talking about wiring to your ignition switch (in the steering column area) or the spark plug wires under the hood.?