Stalling/rough idle w/SES and Traction lights

robotennis61 wrote:

if these mechanics are any good they will uncover problems that you will have to pay for now and not have to worry about the car for many years.at least until you turn 21,find a girl ,knock her up,move out,have a kid, develop a thirst for imported beers and find that you dont quite know when or how you acquired a taste for fine oak furniture?

Your a riot. A born wordsmith.

Ignition wiring under the hood.

IBx1 wrote:

I don't think I've had them, or anyone, do anything regarding ignition wires.

Perhaps you should replace those and while your at it replace the plugs as well. When you can swing the cash that way...

Merry Christmas

Bert

Yea, it's on the list of stuff to do eventually. For now, I have my car back and it drives better than ever.

ibmoses wrote:

IBx1 wrote:

I don't think I've had them, or anyone, do anything regarding ignition wires.

Perhaps you should replace those and while your at it replace the plugs as well. When you can swing the cash that way...

Merry Christmas

Bert

Most definitely. If the plug wires were still properly insulated, they wouldn't be leaking like that. While I'm sorry something this "simple" is costing you so much, it's times like this that I also have to side with the mechanics. With all the electronics on these cars, and all the codes you had set, it can even take someone who knows what they're doing hours to find a lousy plug wire... People who only want to pay for a repair, but not the diagnostic time it took to find the problem, have never met a doctor or lawyer. (Actually, the doctors & lawyers are usually the biggest a-holes...)

Enjoy the last of your Christmas shopping and then take the long way home, just for fun

congrats on the "easy fix" i suspect just about everyone has a similar scenario under their belt.chalk it down to experience. but all said and done, the mechs could have charged you double that, seeing that they had it overnight. and now you have a better insight as well on troubleshooting and what not...

We still don't know what the shop did to fix the problem.
We know you had multiple codes and they ultimately determined that it was an Ignition Wire issue,
but what did they do to correct the problem other than clearing the codes ????

You mentioned you need to change the plugs and wires when you get a chance. So, I'm a bit confused as to what cost's over $300.00 other than troubleshooting time.

If they found bad or leaking Ignition Wires why didn't they replace them.?
And if you have bad wires how long before you get a MIL light again.?

Ilan, take a look(when daylight/weather allows) and see if you can tell if they replaced one or more of the plug wires. See if the wires are routed like they were from the factory.
Maybe they gave Ilan a break and did not charge him for replacing the faulty wire(s). But you would think they would have informed him and shown him which wire(s) were replaced, or if they just needed rerouting then why is that so?

Bert

ibmoses wrote:

Ilan, take a look(when daylight/weather allows) and see if you can tell if they replaced one or more of the plug wires. See if the wires are routed like they were from the factory.
Maybe they gave Ilan a break and did not charge him for replacing the faulty wire(s). But you would think they would have informed him and shown him which wire(s) were replaced, or if they just needed rerouting then why is that so?

Bert

This is what I was trying to say also.
If they needed re-routing to prevent arcing or whatever, it would indicate replacement is needed and why were they mis-routed. All sounds kind of weird.

did they put new wires and plugs?

robotennis61 wrote:

did they put new wires and plugs?

This is what we've been asking.
No response yet.
Based on what he has said so far though, the answer is NO they did not.

Ilan, What does the R/O (Repair Order) say on it.??????

Well, Ilan - Do have any input ????
I know I'm curios as to what was done to your engine / car to solve the problem.

Hey sorry, my email notifications haven't been working. I don't think they replaced any of the wires, since there's none of that on the reciept. The $300 was the diagnostic charge from the 1st day.


All I know is that my car runs better than ever right now, and the CD player works again, too.

If you don't mind me asking, what is on your receipt (RO).
Any insight as to what they accomplished other than clearing the codes ????

Hi Ilan - just be sure to thank the shop - maybe take them a case of (root) beer.

I suspect what happened was what they said it was - they found some wiring problems and fixed them. It is plausible that the ignition wires were routed incorrectly and there was electrical current bleeding out, causing interferance with other components.

So they rerouted the wiring. I suspect they also cleaned some grounds. And you say the CD player started working (without R&R) it may be they re-flashed one or more ROMs (easy to do with a Tech II).

Probably, Ilan, you also benefitted from the fact that most dealer mechanics are not that busy about now, and won't be until after the new year. So unlike a lot of times they had adequate time to look for problems and as well, you probably had more than one tech working on it at least for the troubleshooting.

As I posted elsewhere just remember the most important thing you might say is 'thank you.' In addition to the $300.

In the meantime what you might wonder is how did the ignition wires get misrouted in the first place?!? any ideas?


Albertj

If they indeed did replace parts that are not on the Repair order and they spent a bunch of time trying to find out what was wrong,
Then a Christmas / Holiday type present is in order. AKA a Tip $$$$
That goes a long way for future repairs. That is if you plan on keeping the car and using the same shop. ?
Otherwise, the heck with them. They did take a bunch of money from you and not replace any parts.

I don't think they replaced anything. Anyway, I'm probably putting my car up on Autotrader this April now that everything works and nothing's broken. It's not easy to do but I'd be pricing it accordingly at $4,500 since other Rivs are selling for $5-6k with similar miles and stock condition. I'll pick up an '04-'08 Grand Prix with the money afterwards.

Good Luck getting $4500.00 for a 1995. Although you do have low mileage, it might be obtainable.

Thanks, if anything I'll get negotiated to $4,000; what I paid for it.

Sorry, I didn't know you had a For Sale Ad going on.

It's alright, I don't put up the Autotrader ad until April.

IBx1 wrote:

It's alright, I don't put up the Autotrader ad until April.

I'll take the car off your hands possibly. I'd love a series 1 riviera. How far are you from the Canadian border? It would be awesome to have two rivs.

i have a 95 riviera and it randomly stalls out. it could run great for a couple weeks and then go back to stalling. I got it diagnosed and the codes showed and ignition control problem. The mechanic said it could either be the ignition conrtol module or ecm. He thinks the ignition control module could be the problem because the dummy who changed the plugs and wires on the car left the astro start wire running to the igniton control module sitting on the exhaust manifold which melted it . It also idles up and down ranging from 500 rps to 1700 rpms. I was told before the diagnostic test that it was most likely the iac valve. Is there any way to test the ignition control module or even the coils? Please help me out with this any advise will be appreciated thanks.

Make sure the wires are routed properly, and check your crank or cam position sensors, since that's what my problem was.

tdog652 wrote:

Is there any way to test the ignition control module or even the coils? Please help me out with this any advise will be appreciated thanks.

Sure, try this

For the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP):LINK.

For the Ignition Coils:LINK.