Stalling/rough idle w/SES and Traction lights

Sounds like it would be best to just get the ring then. I'll see what I have tomorrow morning before going to the parts place.

That would be the smart thing to do.

Alright guys, pulled the housing, got a little gush, and turns out I only had the gasket. It came off easy and the gasket is in equal amounts on both pieces, so I'm going to buy a scraper and just the ring seal, along with a small bottle of coolant to add and bleed.

Lemme know if this is a good idea to just get the ring, or if I should get the gasket instead. My phone'll let me know via email when you reply. I'm about to pull the IAC and then head to the parts store!

You can also get some gasket remover spray(Permatex brand) if you wish. Its probably overkill but it might come in handy. For instance if you cant get some of the old gasket off with the gasket scraper because it wont get up in the corner you can just spray the remover on there and let it soak for a couple of minutes and then use a rag to wipe the residue away.


Just use an O ring, no gasket.

Bert

Ok, also I can't get the damn screws off. I'm buying a flathead driver that's just the right length at Home Depot.

Well fuck a duck, I got one screw out and the other(farthest from the engine) got stripped. How the hell will I get this out?

Pay the professionals at this point.
That's the only advise I have without seeing the situation.
Either way, to remove a stripped fastener will require some different tooling than you already have.
Sorry, Bud.
AAA tow to the shop.???????

put the other screw back in ,everything back together and find a buddy who knows how to remove the dead screw.

Well here's what the screw looks like:




The other screw had a little orange stuff on it on the last 2 threads which I assume was some kind of glue stuff. I almost want to take a needle nose and squish this screw head so I can use a socket on it...I know I'm definitely getting a pair of REAL bolts to replace the two dumbass screws.

it looks like its not entirly dead. get a good quality sharp and square flat head and remove that f....r. get a really good purchase on the bolt head with firm pressure and i bet you can remove it

I got it to turn a little bit when I pushed up on it as hard as I could when I started with my new tool, but it's just giving up on me. I'm thinking about maybe using an oversized philips head, or the rubber band trick.

IBx1 wrote:

I got it to turn a little bit when I pushed up on it as hard as I could when I started with my new tool, but it's just giving up on me. I'm thinking about maybe using an oversized philips head, or the rubber band trick.

????? What size Phillips head screw driver are you using, a #2 or #3 ?
And what is the rubber band trick.
I've been wrenching my whole life and seem to have missed that one

I was using a #2(I have a few bigger, chunky bits), and the rubber band trick is to put a broad flat rubber band between the driver and screw to fill in the space and reduce further stripping.

Also,
Some of the more inexpensive phillips head screw drivers or tips are too sharp, i.e. too pointy.
A proper Philips Head will be more blunt and fit the screw head better.
Can always go to the hardware store and look closely at the type of heads on the Phillips bits and you will see what I mean.

The philips heads I put in just slip right up. I have a few with blunt tips that I'll go right outside and give a quick shot now. I'll just do one, then one with the rubber band, and I'll see if that gets me anywhere. Probably won't...

take the one bolt that you previously removed and run down to the hardware store and have them recommend the proper tool for the job. at this point you might have to buy an extractor bit. if your hardware store is good they will have everything you need. don't go to the vato zone.

ibmoses wrote:

You can also get some gasket remover spray(Permatex brand) if you wish. Its probably overkill but it might come in handy. For instance if you cant get some of the old gasket off with the gasket scraper because it wont get up in the corner you can just spray the remover on there and let it soak for a couple of minutes and then use a rag to wipe the residue away.


Just use an O ring, no gasket.

Bert

...and be sure to follow the instructions earlier in this thread for flattening the mating surface.

Albertj

My dad might have a screw extractor but one I need to wait for him to come back, and two I don't know if the power drill will fit in the tight space.

Probably won't, My experience with tight area's like that require a 90* drill set up.

I just hit it with a lot of the PB stuff and wiped up the extra that spilled. I pulled the sensor down the little bit it would go and sprayed at the bolt in there too. Give it 5 minutes and I'll see if that helps any.



Edit: of course it didn't help at all.

You can always cut a new slot for a flathead if you can get a dremel close enough. Otherwise, drill the head off, remove the sensor, then you can use vice grips on the remainder of the bolt sticking up.

Good luck!

(Aside: I HATE that they use so many steel screws in aluminum castings. Don't the engineers know that aluminum and steel will bond over time?!)

I don't mind the materials, I just wish they gave us a hex-head to work with! What kind of screwdriver did they think would fit in this really confined space...

2 things:

-The manifold side of the stat DOES have the groove around the hole for the rubber ring, right?

-Surely there are "female hex" multi-screwdriver handles that would hold a Grabit... http://www.toolsforstagecraft.com/grabit_pro-opt.jpg

Why, should there be a deep cutout around the thermostat for one? I think mine has a little cut but not much.

IBx1 wrote:

Why, should there be a deep cutout around the thermostat for one? I think mine has a little cut but not much.

I don't remember how deep, but there IS more of a groove than a 'traditional' thermostat installation... Normally, there is just enough depth for the stat to sit in, and the top of the stat is then flush with the mating surface. The manifolds that use the rubber ring are cut deeper so about half of the ring is below the mating surface, and the other half gets smashed.