is it possible to do a cam without lifting the engine?

I want to know if I can do the cam without pulling the engine. if i can't then its rockers

yes, I've done it. I didn't listen to the people who told me it would be easier to pull the engine and regretted it. Therefore, I would recommend pulling the engine You can't just lower the cradle like on the W-body.

Heh-heh.

3800 engine with its pushrod design was designed to be torn down/rebuilt in place - in longitudinal configuration.

Installed transverse it's a *tough* job although doable.

To get some insights have a look at a copy of the Haynes for the B-O-P full size cars of the early '90s, in a public library.

Albertj

Jason wrote:

yes, I've done it. I didn't listen to the people who told me it would be easier to pull the engine and regretted it. Therefore, I would recommend pulling the engine You can't just lower the cradle like on the W-body.

ooo the pleasure of a W-Body

It's not that hard to get the motor out and you can do a better job of it. There's no room in the W even with the cradle dropped to check things with a degree wheel. Anyone who installs a cam without checking it on a degree wheel has too much faith in the machine shop.

I would pull the engine if it wasn't such an incredibly impossible task to pull an engine. I'm not exactly ASE certified here

It's not an impossible task... drain coolant (which you needed to do anyway), unplug wiring harness (not that bad), remove mounts (which you needed to do to drop the motor), remove starter, unbolt exhaust at rear manifold/DP, unbolt flywheel, unbolt from trans, hoist. There's only a few more steps and the headache/cursing it will save you while putting in the cam is worth the extra two hours on the front end of the job.

This is assuming you have a hoist, but then how would you be lowering the engine anyway? I think you could do it through the wheel well, but the amount of stuff you need to remove to go that way makes me think it's easier to yank the motor.

edit: even easier idea - buy a used built motor from someone on clubgp and just swap them.

And - you can rent the hoist, they're not that bad if you shop around. Also it's not tough to remove the hood and you'll be surprised by what it does not weigh - it is aluminum.

Just don't drop it...

With hood off the deed will be much easier, and as Derek pointed out you can do the degree wheel check. I had not thought of that. I'm not that far from Watkins Glen, and being near the Watkins Glen race track helps somewhat in terms of the quality of the machine shops...

Albertj

I wouldnt want to just buy another motor because I want to do this myself......but i think im definitely gonna need someone in my area to help me. deekster you make it sound so easy.

actually im wondering....how much would it cost to have a shop do this?

97rivsc wrote:

I wouldnt want to just buy another motor because I want to do this myself......but i think im definitely gonna need someone in my area to help me. deekster you make it sound so easy.

Well, add a good solid hour for removing the wiring harness with labelling... and don't forget the 'bastard bolt', the rear backward fcing bellhousing bolt... I use 5 or 6 extensions and go in from the pass. side wheel well, it's pretty easy to get at through there. There is also a support bracket down near the oil filter to the pass. side transmission output, but it's only two bolts...

You should be able to do this in a solid weekend's work if you are moving. If you've done it before I'd give about 12 hours to the whole job.

But really, it's not that bad.

I've heard of cam installs being worth $600 - $1000 to a shop. It's all labor...