Turn Signal & Hazard Flashers - Location/Troubleshooting

I got the right socket... took the most of the dash off to get to the switch off. I took the actual switch off the column and dissected it. There was a brass pin in there that broke off and was blocking the switch from moving. I don't know what it was for but after i put it all back together, it works fine now. I wouldn't recommend this little job to anyone, as its a PITA to get the switch back together and have everything still work right. Took a lot of patience and a lil cussing but its working just like before now...
AND, forgive me, but i have my moments and i'm very slow at times- what is "The Fine Manual"????

curious riv wrote:

I
AND, forgive me, but i have my moments and i'm very slow at times- what is "The Fine Manual"????

Were happy to see your follow-up as well, but as I was actually addressing Texasfan, I think albertj was referring to my previous post to Tex, where I referenced the Owner's Manual's page on turn signals and dead bulbs...

The Fine Manual = factory service manual, owner's manual, or a Chilton or Haynes in a pinch.

In this case, the earlier referenced manual.

Albertj

Where is the turn signal flasher located on the 97 riv?

Under dash on driver side.

Thanks Aaron

Hi. I'm looking for any help or advice on troubleshooting my turn signal problems for my 99 Riviera.

Symptoms: when activated, turn signals would blink erratically (i.e. in a random pattern, not in a rhythm) but would otherwise work fine. then they stopped working altogether. then a couple weeks later they worked again (still erratically) but just for a little bit, then stopped again altogether. Hazard lights work fine and blink normally. Turning the switch to activate the turn signals does not turn on any lights, nor is there any clicking sound (even once) coming from under the dash.

Troubleshooting so far: I've replaced the turn signal fuse in the box on the dash on the drivers side. I've replaced the flasher unit under the dashboard (which was a literal pain in the neck). I'm unaware of any other fuses or relay switches that would affect the turn signals.

Any suggestions or advice on further troubleshooting/fixing would be greatly appreciated. The only other step I can see to take is to replace the stick itself, which looks to cost around $400-$500, and I'm not certain that would fix the problem.

Thanks in advance!

There are two relays which are the same. One is for the hazard lights and one for the turn signals. I'm not sure on the location but if you can wait until Monday, I'll have access to Mitchell for component location. I hope it's simple and not the multi-function switch. Have you checked all bulbs to make sure it's not the problem? You may have a ground problem also in the system. I'll post again Monday with what I find.

Thanks for your response.

Are the two relays identical? If so, then it may indeed be possible that I replaced the wrong one. I only ever saw one while I was down there, and it looked like the pictures I saw online and the replacement part. But if the hazard relay looks the same than I may have replaced that one by mistake. That does sound like something I would do....

The lights all come on with the hazard lights. But I've read here that the bulbs have two filaments, one for the hazards and one for the turn signals? I'm not sure how to check the turn signal lights other than by turning on the hazard lights...but if turning on the hazard lights operates a different filament then I have no clue how to check the lights.

t/s and hazard flashers look the same. You might have swapped out the wrong one.

The filaments are the same for either function. I'm betting on the wrong relay change.

Thanks guys.

Yeah I was pretty certain it was going to be the flasher based on the how it was just the t/s that was acting up, and the way it was acting up. (well, either that or a problem with the wiring) So ya'll are probably right that I replaced the wrong flasher. Ooops!

Might be a couple days till I can get back under there and change the other one....long work days ahead and the Frankenstorm is coming. But I'll post an update soon as I do it. Thanks for the advice!

Ok you guys were right. I had replaced the wrong flasher relay. Finally got a chance to get back under there and switch out the other one, and now the t/s works fine.

Thanks a bunch everyone!

wvman2374 wrote:

Ok you guys were right. I had replaced the wrong flasher relay. Finally got a chance to get back under there and switch out the other one, and now the t/s works fine.

Thanks a bunch everyone!

You are welcome of course.

Good to hear it's fixed. You also have the confidence that your hazard relay is fresh. Everyone here is always glad to try and help.

I'm trying to get my car to pass inspection soon, and I have no idea why but my turn signals won't flash at all but my hazards will. Also my gauge cluster backlighting won't work at all. I had my gauge cluster sent to a professional company to get rebuilt, and since it got back the backlighting hasn't worked at all. I have the headlight selector knobb thingy plugged in which is what I originally thought was why it didn't work. I need to use my car soon so the turn signal is more important to pass inspection. Any help would be awesome, thanks.

Also I tried replacing any possible bulbs that might have been out. if it was my flasher thingy wouldn't the hazards not work right? All that happens is when I activate the turn signal lever, the light will go on but won't blink. this happens on both sides. When I go outside the car with the signal on, one half of my brake lights is brighter from the secondary filament in the bulbs being on, making them brighter. Does the gauge cluster have anything at all to do with why this is happening or do I have some other problem?

So people know, my car isn't fully put back together yet from my interior restore. I'm going to try and put my headliner back in tonight since I just got my replacement sunroof switch and all the panels and whatnot. Is it possible that I missed some kind of snap in connector somewhere in the instrument panel harness when I replaced my wire hardness that melted that is making my gauge cluster not light up? I honestly have no idea why this is happening but it's mostly annoying because I can't legally drive my car until I get the turn signals fixed. Every exterior light is hooked up and has brand new bulbs since my step dad said that might be the problem. I'm going to research some a bit later and see where my flasher is for the signals and take the one out of parts buick and replace mine after I try finishing some stuff.

There are 2 identical separate flasher units, one for the signals, one for the hazards. Look under the dash on the driver's side. You will have to remove the panel above your knees. You can interchange them to test.




Have you rotated the light switch knob? That is the dimmer for the dash lights. If you rotate it CCW, fully, there will be no dash lights.

LARRY70GS wrote:

There are 2 identical separate flasher units, one for the signals, one for the hazards. Look under the dash on the driver's side. You will have to remove the panel above your knees. You can interchange them to test.




Have you rotated the light switch knob? That is the dimmer for the dash lights. If you rotate it CCW, fully, there will be no dash lights.

I figured out the problem with my turn signals after a couple hours researching. Since the relay isn't digital, and I had LED bulbs to attempt to be brighter, there wasn't enough resistance for the flasher to work properly. I switched out the bulbs with my old ones and it works fine.

With the backlight yeah I have but I justr realized that I am using the selector from parts buick which is slightly different from a 95 model but has better labels on it so I'll switch back to mine and see if it fixes the problem. Thanks for helping

I just tried to switch out the lightr selector to my old one, and even went back to my old trip button switch and the backlight on the gauge cluster still wont work. Is it possible that the new wire harness is faulty? It was brand new with the oily residue still on the plastic itself. Maybe I should go back to my old wire harness and simply splice out all the wires near where it melted to the new harness and solder it up using my old one?

This is meant to be helpful but it isn't flattering.

When you post about stuff like "my lights don't work" you have got to write, in the same post, what the mods were. For instance your taillights. Point is you could easily kept the LED taillights by installing a ballast resistor in the circuit. Superbrightleds.com and other sites have them, or you can just calculate the value using the old bulb wattage as guide.

As for your dash, is that also LED conversion? If so, there is a good chance you have reversed the LEDs polarity from what it should be and you just need to reverse them.

So how about you come clean and tell us what else is up in this problem of yours.

Albertj

The back lighting is all pure stock on the gauge with original lighting. I knew I'd need a ballast for like an HID conversion but even one LED bulb for a tail light screws my whole turn signals up. Didn't realize that because I haven't driven the riv in a while, but I have no idea why the gauge won't light up when everything seems on to cluster works. Would polarity matter on the stock bulbs which I doubt? I'm half tempted to fabricate my own back lighting if i cant get it to work

Ok I get it. The resistor for the LEDs is not a ballast. The flasher is "thermal." When you pass current through it, it heats up. The current passes thru a bimetallic reed, in the lighting circuit. When hot enough the reed bends and opens the circuit. It cools off pretty quick, which is speedy because it's in a metal can. When cool enough the reed returns to the "cold" position and the lights flash on.

Problem is, if you put in LEDs the LEDs use less current and the thermal flasher will not work right. Adding a resistor of the right value adjusts the current draw to where things work.

As for the cluster, check the connectors and fuses. My guess is you tried to take it apart/put it together with the battery connected. In the future, never do electrical work on a car with the battery still connected if you can help it.

Thought this was the best thread for my question:

My turning signals have become increasingly SLOW. They are slow and lag sometime before clicks. At first I thought it was because of my rear marker lights. 1 went out and then the other. But doesn't that generally increase the speed of the signals and not slow them down?

I replaced both rear marker lights and now i'm all lit up, I think. But my left turning signal is still slow. Right is fine. I just installed sequential tail lights and my right is fine but the left still lags and the outside left lamp never illuminates. Any idea what I am missing or should investigate?

Have you upgraded to a quality flasher relay?

What's the story with your battery? Did you have it checked?

AA wrote:

Have you upgraded to a quality flasher relay?

What's the story with your battery? Did you have it checked?

Battery is fine if I dont leave it on for longer than 15 minutes. I will probably be fine until next winter and I will replace it then. I do not have a new flasher relay. Looked for them on Rockauto but couldnt find it.

Is this what I want?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1324312&cc=1352843