Write-Up: Outer Tie Rod End Installation

You might also try turning the hex nut without putting the grips on the tie rod. This would allow the nut and the rod to break loose from the tie rod end together, which is okay. Good luck!

ok got the tie rods in today. they fit with no problem. (ordered 98 outer tie rods for my 96 with 97 knuckles)
for 1.72 each i'm glad that's done. it did not fix my clunk noise, but at least it ruled tie rods out. my old ones were in bad shape leaking grease all over the place.

all i had was hd marine grade grease, will that be ok?
i also discovered the place that did my alignment didnt tighten the bottom bolt on the passenger strut so the strut moved a little bit around the lower knuckle. it is so hard to find a mechanic that doesnt screw up.
i made certain to mark the steering rod and place the new tie rods as close as possible to where they were. i cant afford another alignment and the place i went to doesnt have a warranty on it. it drives straight and hopefully it will be OK.

so are the rear tie rods the same as the fronts? no parts place lists rear outer tie rods, but my 96 has grease-able outer bushings.

I would take it back anyway and demand they do the job right, warranty or not. There's no way for you to know if the alignments on or off - until your tires start showing uneven wear.

Rear tie rod ends should never need changed, imo. They don't really move much, so it would take a long time before they became loose.

AA wrote:

Rear tie rod ends should never need changed, imo. They don't really move much, so it would take a long time before they became loose.

you're probably right. it's just me being anal about replacing parts i dont really need to.

Did tie rod ends today. Big pipe wrench came in real handy to break those stubborn nuts loose. Used a pickle fork to seperate the ends.

I marked the location of the nuts and put them back exactly where they were originally and counted turns and matched everything up and it still ended up out of line. Note to self and everyone else, always get an alignment or atleast get it checked after replacing tie rods.

Got a set of 2 for $25 shipped on ebay. They have grease fittings so as long as I keep them greased they should last a good while.

What grease should I use for the tie rod ends? Will any grease do or do I need to get something special?

I use a "multipurpose" grease - use the same for all chassis lube. I believe a marine grade would also work, but it does not need to be high-temp, such as for wheel bearings.

I'm looking at replacing my tie rod ends and another set of front wheel bearing hubs... if I can swing the extra scratch will go with the better brand on both. Used the cheaper imported hubs last time because it was less than half the price, Then everyone told me, I read posts and wondered how long it will be before I have to do it all again...the answer: 3 years...almost to the month for cheap vs Timken hubs.

My question to the group: what are the symptoms of a bad wheel bearing as opposed to a bad inner tie rod end or ball joint, or even a bad strut? Both my front wheels wobble went jacked up, so I will be doing the tie rods this time with hub bearings but can anyone describe the noises they have experienced when any of this stuff goes bad? Is there one brand of tie rod ends better than another?

The subtle differences our cars front end design make noise diagnosis a slight challenge.

Bad Hub/Bearing:

Sound: deep growl from loaded wheel during hard cornering, or sometimes a creaking from the wheel area (can be misdiagnosed as brakes or cracked rim).

Feel: not easy to feel, unless it's very bad. You'll surely feel it if the wheel flies off (this once happened to me!).

Test: with car raised, rock each wheel 12-6 o'clock. Looser side is the bad hub.

Bad Strut:

Sound: strut not usually audible unless very bad, will rattle. Strut mount/bearing can make a "bump, bump, bump" sound as you turn the wheel at low speed.

Feel: if the strut is bad, the car will bounce/porpoise, as with a bad set of shocks. If the strut mount/bearing is bad, the steering may give a "bump, bump, bump" popping feeback through the wheel.

Test: with car on ground, lift the front bumper and drop. Front end should compress, then rebound only once. Of more movement, struts need replaced. With car running, turn the wheel on slick surface like wet grass. Bad strut mounts can be felt as popping through the wheel.

Tie-Rods & Ends:

Sound: none, maybe a slight "clink" when turning the wheel.

Feel: high speed vibration possible. Steering is "loose", less responsive when straight.

Test: with car raised, rock each wheel 9-3 o'clock, watching how the opposite wheel responds. Both wheels should track EXACTLY the same. If not, watch the tie rods on both sides. You can see if the outer ends are bad. Typically, the outers will wear out before the inners. If loose and no slop evident from the outers, suspect the inners, or the steering rack.
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Note: when getting a fresh wheel alignment, a good tech will inform you of a bad hub or tie-rod issue. Some will even refuse to do the alignment until a repair is done. This is sort of like a free inspection, as they won't charge you for the diagnosis, but only try this if you really need the alignment and know the tech is honest.

This approach may be better suited for those with a life-time alignment purchase (offered though Firestone and other tire sellers). A few times per year, some shops offer the life-time alignment deal at a sale price (about $130-140).

Thanks Aaron, that's the answer I was looking for...wobble is 9 - 3 o'clock so will start with the tie rods and still have beer money...maybe it's not end of cheaper hub lifespan after all. Keep up the good work!

The rubber boot on my rear tie rod ends is falling apart. I checked the usual places, but they only list ones for the front.  I noticed GM sells new rubber boots for about $12. Is it hard to just replace the boots or is there somewhere I can buy new ones? Thanks.

98riv wrote:

The rubber boot on my rear tie rod ends is falling apart.  I checked the usual places, but they only list ones for the front.  I noticed GM sells new rubber boots for about $12.  Is it hard to just replace the boots or is there somewhere I can buy new ones?  Thanks.

You just pop the outer tie rod end off, then pry the boot off. Add some grease (if not grease-able), and slide the new boot on. Re-install the end to the knuckle....done. As long as you don't loosen the jam nut, you won't mess up your alignment.

Abaddon wrote:

98riv wrote:

The rubber boot on my rear tie rod ends is falling apart.  I checked the usual places, but they only list ones for the front.  I noticed GM sells new rubber boots for about $12.  Is it hard to just replace the boots or is there somewhere I can buy new ones?  Thanks.

You just pop the outer tie rod end off, then pry the boot off. Add some grease (if not grease-able), and slide the new boot on. Re-install the end to the knuckle....done. As long as you don't loosen the jam nut, you won't mess up your alignment.

What is the correct torque spec? 88 lb in. then an additional 3/4 turn or 88 lb in. then an additional 1/2 turn

Incase anyone needs it, the part number for the rubber boot is 26049394.

Frick, I think i have some bad outer tie rods..

It happens. It's a pretty easy job to do. The hardest part is separating the old ends from the knuckle, especially if they're OEM.

Well, after seeing Lisa's post and looking up that part, I am thinking about replacing the whole rack n pinion with tie rods.

I am a follower of the belief that if its not broke, dont fix it but, how can i tell if i have a bad rack/pinon or if its just the tie rods?

Alls I know is that my wheel is loose and sloppy as hell.

charlieRobinson wrote:

Alls I know is that my wheel is loose and sloppy as hell.

It's probably not the rack. I've got 165K on my factory rack. You need to have somebody else shake down that wheel while you look underneath to see what's actually loose. Or, with the wheels off the ground, move the wheel with one hand, and reach around the backside of the tire and grab the outer tie rod. You'll definitely know if it's bad. You'll literally feel the ball stud moving.