Group Buy: Magnecor R100 Spark Plug Wres

I plan on routing them over the SC, there are certain years of h-body's that got a bracket that attaches to the snout giving you a place to mount the wires. If it fits the wires, we would recommend you get it. If not we're going to first look for mounting points for the separators that exist already. If we don't find anything that is satisfactory we will explore other options.

You can route it any way you want (with in reason), just keep in mind that no plug wire should ever contact the engine directly and you want to keep it away from anything that might damage them.

I met with the manufacturer today, should have the first set tomorrow. I was very impressed with what I saw and I think you guys will be too when the pics are up.

Don't worry, these plug wires will be an exceptional value.

Expect pictures this afternoon, and the manufacturer reveal.

Do you have any deadline for reaching the minimum order requirement?

How would your wires compare to PRJ's which is what I have installed? Taylor "409" Spirol Pro Race wire (10mm), MSD dual crimp terminals added to each end with easy to read identification numbers for each wire, coil end of the wires are MSD gray boots (100% pure silicone), spark plug ends are MSD Pro Race boots, and 3 color availability at $83.00. I think I got the wire looms at this price as well.

1998 Riv wrote:

Do you have any deadline for reaching the minimum order requirement?

No, but if you miss the boat you'll have to wait for the next one.

ewolfe0050 wrote:

How would your wires compare to PRJ's which is what I have installed? Taylor "409" Spirol Pro Race wire (10mm), MSD dual crimp terminals added to each end with easy to read identification numbers for each wire, coil end of the wires are MSD gray boots (100% pure silicone), spark plug ends are MSD Pro Race boots, and 3 color availability at $83.00. I think I got the wire looms at this price as well.

Frankly, the 409 wire does not compare to these wires. I am familiar with the PRJ product.

Quote :

Frankly, the 409 wire does not compare to these wires.

Can you explain why?

ewolfe0050 wrote:

Quote :

Frankly, the 409 wire does not compare to these wires.

Can you explain why?

Don't take this the wrong way, but it's already has been posted in this thread.

409's are ferrite (ferrite is inferior to stainless steel) cores, conductors aren't as thick, winding doesn't contain nearly as much wire, and they use woven glass heat layers (which ultimately bake the conductor rather than protect it). That and a dozen other reasons

Hellfish wrote:

1998 Riv wrote:

Do you have any deadline for reaching the minimum order requirement?

No, but if you miss the boat you'll have to wait for the next one.

+


No worries, I was just curious. Doubt that I'll be buying, but it's nice to know whatever details you can provide the rest who may be interested.

Pictures in a few minutes

Had some technical difficulties getting the images off the camera.. now I'm far to tired to write a proper post and distribute the pictures to all the forums.

I have the pictures and will post them tomorrow morning when I can stay up long enough to compose a proper release.

They look incredible and definitely say you mean business.

ill second ewolfs thoughts a bit...for around $60 or more ,i can buy a kit from any number of companys,msd,moroso,jackobs. and manufacture my own set. jacobs are excelent,so are morosos,msd has been around along time. i trust these companys. not to say that i dont trust you,but for $120 i can do better............

robotennis61 wrote:

ill second ewolfs thoughts a bit...for around $60 or more ,i can buy a kit from any number of companys,msd,moroso,jackobs. and manufacture my own set. jacobs are excelent,so are morosos,msd has been around along time. i trust these companys. not to say that i dont trust you,but for $120 i can do better............

I doubt you can to 'better'. Technically what these guys are saying about the wires is correct. The question is whether any of this will make a difference in anything but a 9 second or faster car. You've got to be running crazy cylinder pressures to have spark problems where the wire is actually going to make any difference. If we have so much cylinder pressure as to be having misfires, run a smaller gap. That only works to a point, so when you get down to the 9 second car range, you'll need higher voltage coils and better wires, then this will matter.

Nonetheless, this is a decent price on a very nice set of wires.

robotennis61 wrote:

ill second ewolfs thoughts a bit...for around $60 or more ,i can buy a kit from any number of companys,msd,moroso,jackobs. and manufacture my own set. jacobs are excelent,so are morosos,msd has been around along time. i trust these companys. not to say that i dont trust you,but for $120 i can do better............

Nope, you can't.

The Big Reveal:

Yes, perhaps some have speculated on where/who these wires are coming from. We have worked with Magnecor to get a custom set of their R100 10 mm race ignition wires made for our application. These wires will deliver the most powerful spark, handle the most heat, and out last the life of the car with proper care. Picture below is our "beta" kit. Kits that ship will be numbered. As you can see they come with documentation outlining how to install the wires, including special instructions for the 3800.

Just to recap:

The R-100 wire is a 10 mm ignition cable. It's conductor is a 2.5mm diameter stainless steel winding around a strengthening substrate, then coated with a one piece 100% silicone jacket that provides the best thermal protection, flexibility and strength. The wire terminates at both ends with a stainless steel terminal. The plug boot is the highest temperature boot available.

This set has been designed to fit FWD 3800's. These will fit with any intercooler/blower. The plug boot is also fairly low profile and the highest temperature they make to accommodate most headers, no coolsox are necessary. These were designed to fit cars with the coils in the factory location, they have been given a reasonable amount of slack, but if you have moved your coils, please ask first as there are no returns for non-defective parts (and we can order you a custom set for a bit extra). In fact, unless you physically break your wires (which is not covered) you should never have a problem. Just be sure to read the documentation that comes withe them completely. If you do physically break a wire you can order individual replacements through us.

I have sourced wire separators which are acceptable (there aren't may 10 mm ones to chose from). If you would like to add them to your order please let me know (they are extra). However, I am still working with the manufacture on the price, but this should be wrapped up soon once we work out quantity. You can provide your own looming solution, there is a fairly clean method of using zip ties to create custom separators which you may find on the web. Wires should be neatly loomed and kept away from anything that may damage them. You don't want any plug wires to contact the engine directly.

We may also offer brackets to mount the separators at a premium, I have a contact that could stamp us some pieces to mount the wires too. These may take extra time so if we go ahead with them, I will offer them to people who already bought plug wires at a later date with no extra shipping, just the cost of what ever they turn out to be.

Pictured is our BETA set, the final set will be numbered.

These plug wires represent a fairly large investment of time and money of Chris and myself, and I take a lot of pride to release these and to say that they are Made in the USA, including any accessories we provide (separators, brackets).

And the suspense is over:























For plugs in a stock application - 3.4 pulley, I would recommend an Autolite 605 with a .055 gap
for 3.4-3.1(and up to around 11-12 psi of boost) I would recommend an Autolite 104 with a .050 gap
for 13-14 psi and up, 3.0 pulley or small i would recommend an 103 with a .050 or .045 gap, for more than 14 psi or nitrous i would recommend an AR 103 with a .045 gap.

Looks like a great product. I use magnecor KV85s on the stroked roadmaster wagon and on the turbo regal and am VERY satisfied.

so what if they have all the bells and whistles? they are still $120 bucks! while the tech specs are impressive, a good set of msd,s will will extract as much power as the stock 3800 ignition can produce. if you have $120 bucks to spare why not? but even for a reprogramed riv a good set of wires for less $, will give performance for years. im familiar with magnacor wires and their efforts with race teams, but for the performance goals i have in mind for my riv, i can do better.

robotennis61 wrote:

so what if they have all the bells and whistles? they are still $120 bucks! while the tech specs are impressive, a good set of msd,s will will extract as much power as the stock 3800 ignition can produce. if you have $120 bucks to spare why not? but even for a reprogramed riv a good set of wires for less $, will give performance for years. im familiar with magnacor wires and their efforts with race teams, but for the performance goals i have in mind for my riv, i can do better.

I guess I shall make a bold statement (that has already been made) and say that MSD wires are noted to be some of the worst wires available on the market. They are cheaply built with low quality components and dishonestly marketed towards a consumer who doesn't know any better. MSD wires make the coils work overtime to produce the same spark energy at the plug because of their poor construction and low current carrying capabilities.

i dont believe hype. msd is just as good as any manufacture out there. with enough marketing any wire is good. and for every critic who testifies against one,there are 50 more to testifie for. i dont know anyone who runs msd wires who is unsatisfied. from rice burners to $150 thou rods. that being sed, for $120 bucks i can do better

Here are some wire separators that may work with the 10mm wires.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SPE-4631&view=32&N=700+400068

Points taken, robotennis61.

LSChris and Hellfish's sales pitch depends on their theory that MSD and other spiral core wires are not as good as their product. This is supported by Magnecor's tech page. You either buy into it or you don't.

If there is some hard proof that Magnecor's tech info is fact, please post it up. Also, if there is evidence proving false the idea that MSD, Taylor, and other spiral core wires are inferior, please show it to us. Right now, the integrity of this entire thread hinges upon whether or not the spiral core is actually over-marketed junk, or if maybe there is some value in using spiral core construction.

If anyone has links, references, actual experience, or other pieces of real information that will shed light, let's see it. Otherwise, we're just guessing based on opinions.

I think you missed something, as Magnecor does use a spiral core. The advantage Magnecor has over the others is in the construction of the core and insulator. The coils are wound tighter and made of a better material. Taylor's are superior to MSD's, but Magnecore trumps them all.

Since the 45,000 volt ignition pulse travels along the outer edge of the winding in a magnetic field, and not through it linearly (like 1.5 V dc from an OHM meter), the best wire is he one that has the tightest wound wire, and that would be Magnecor. The lower the OHMs in a particular wire means that they simply used less wire, which will make it significantly less durable, reduce its energy handling and increase its energy loss. This isn't theory, this is physics. Ferrite and copper are fine conductors but both are susceptible to corrosion, where as stainless steel is not.

There are other aspects to consider, but the R100 covers them all.

I think you picked an excellent manufacturer for the group buy of ignition wires. Good Luck with the sales of wire sets.
I would have purchased a set from you, but I just replaced mine a month ago.

We're posing the question to the community,
Would you prefer:

All the wires to run under the passenger side dogbone

or

The rear wires to run over the dogbone, with the front wires going under

or

All the wires to run over the dogbone

The Riviera does not have any dogbones to be concerned with.