tortuga

damn thats good....we are only seeing 7-8 on the street(or actually heavily neglected country road thats mad hilly.....)I atleast want to be able to pull high 6's before spring even though I haven't had a chance to run on the strip ever(our times should be alot better...won't have to worry about the car's tires comming off the pavement every couple of seconds....

So the car has done its spontaneous dieing thing a couple more times the other day. Engine just went dead for no perceivable reason. I started it right back up no problem still rolling down the street. One time it was on the highway cruising. The other time was going about 25-30mph cruising down a residential street. I will just notice I loose all power but the engine is still kinda turning rpms. It seems to maintain that state until I put it into neutral and it dies completely. I don't usually leave it like that for long because I know I can just put it into neutral, let it die completely, and then start it right back up. Is the just because the transmission's torque is back-flowing to the motor then? Anyway I'm pretty lost on what that would be. Virtually every engine component has been replaced so I suspect wiring or a PCM problem. Anyway that's nothing new.

Today I took the car into an exhaust shop I know and got that gigantic muffler fitted and welded in where the OEM resonator would be and got the new O2 bung welded in for the wideband. No more exhaust touching the car! Now I just need to figure out how to de-pin the stupid molex connector so I can run the wires through the firewall and I'll be in business tuning. So as of current I have two very large tuned chamber mufflers and it's quiet as a mouse which is awesome. Idle is still noticeable but not loud at all. I'd say the exhaust is honestly as quiet as stock overall now. My intention is to change out the back muffler that I've had for a smaller straight -through type and I'm hoping to still have it be quiet then. Now I need to make sure I don't have too much restriction. James could probably jimmy up something to measure pressure at my wideband fitting since he's done that before but for now, I'm just going watch the gauges as I get into throttle.

Your stalling symptoms echo my experience with a failing fuel pump over a period of several months.

Very interested in your new exhaust set-up. Please document the components and tube sizes in the exhaust thread.

AA wrote:

Very interested in your new exhaust set-up. Please document the components and tube sizes in the exhaust thread.

done

So the car died again and I did look down at the gauge and found no fuel pressure. Interesting... I just did a re-wire so there's a lot of bits I can rule out. I might swap the relay and the FPM and see where I'm at then. Intermittent problems suck the most!

The fuel pump cutting off thing - I'm gonna try what James said and swap the relay and see how it goes from there.
In other news, I've been trying to track down a coolant leak for the past week or so and found it.


The chinese piece of shit plastic coolant elbow that I installed new with everything else I just did. It's the usual Dorman piece you buy from the auto parts store. It warped out of shape and sorta backed out of the LIM a little and you can see the bit of o-ring prolapsing. There's no reason for this! I know I installed it right. So after my job interview in the morning, that's what I'll be replacing tomorrow.

Also got the wideband installed and it works perfectly displayed via the aeroforce gauge. Wideband AFR is always right on point with desired AFR in closed loop. When I get into PE, actual AFR gets much richer than desired. I'd say that's in agreement with the logs I've taken so far. I need to tune badly

Also got the Michelin 255/45/18 pilot sport a/s plus's mounted and road-force balanced. This was all just today so I can't really review the tires performance yet because I was taking it easy on the car on account of it leaking coolant. I never knew what the road force thing was until we did it today over at the Hyundai service training headquarters. It's a regular dynamic tire balancing machine but also has another component that presses against the tire as it spins on the machine. The other part that I haven't seen before is where we actually re-clocked the tire on the wheel for better balance. Does it all really work? All I can say is they are definitely balanced. It was smooth as glass cruising down the highway at 70-80.

FWIW, Codith, I now remember seeing a recall on those Dorman elbows over at the Bonneville forum a few weeks ago. I don't know what the deal is exactly, but what happened to you is exactly why they recalled them.

Z-type wrote:

FWIW, Codith, I now remember seeing a recall on those Dorman elbows over at the Bonneville forum a few weeks ago. I don't know what the deal is exactly, but what happened to you is exactly why they recalled them.

After a little searching, I'm seeing this all over the place lately
Superb Dorman!
Good thing I just put one of those in the side job I just did too.
I guess I'll call the dealer and pray they have a 24503423.

turtleman wrote:

The fuel pump cutting off thing - I'm gonna try what James said and swap the relay and see how it goes from there.

i figured ya woulda done that right away

turtleman wrote:

In other news, I've been trying to track down a coolant leak for the past week or so and found it.
https://2img.net/h/i31.photobucket.com/albums/c374/CODITHsaves/CIMG4277.jpg
The chinese piece of shit plastic coolant elbow that I installed new with everything else I just did. It's the usual Dorman piece you buy from the auto parts store. It warped out of shape and sorta backed out of the LIM a little and you can see the bit of o-ring prolapsing. There's no reason for this! I know I installed it right. So after my job interview in the morning, that's what I'll be replacing tomorrow.

i think i have two old sets of dorman/HELP elbows in my garage.
any links to this recall?

turtleman wrote:

Also got the wideband installed and it works perfectly displayed via the aeroforce gauge. Wideband AFR is always right on point with desired AFR in closed loop. When I get into PE, actual AFR gets much richer than desired. I'd say that's in agreement with the logs I've taken so far. I need to tune badly

ill train yew to do teh math in yer head lol
ill try to make some time for ya is the WB setup to be datalogged or ya going by eyeball? people run these motors way too rich they can and do handle 14.7afr at wot though its not as powerfull as say 12-12.4ish (talk about fuel economy too!)

turtleman wrote:

Also got the Michelin 255/45/18 pilot sport a/s plus's mounted and road-force balanced. This was all just today so I can't really review the tires performance yet because I was taking it easy on the car on account of it leaking coolant. I never knew what the road force thing was until we did it today over at the Hyundai service training headquarters. It's a regular dynamic tire balancing machine but also has another component that presses against the tire as it spins on the machine. The other part that I haven't seen before is where we actually re-clocked the tire on the wheel for better balance. Does it all really work? All I can say is they are definitely balanced. It was smooth as glass cruising down the highway at 70-80.

the tire reclocking is to put the heavy portion of the tire near the lightest portion of the rim to minimize stickon weights.
the road force check is actually looking at the sidewall stiffness difference "under load" this is usually due to the sidewall belts overlapping in one spot which creates a "stiff" section that litterally makes the tire "bounce" upward as the stiff section hits the ground while rolling. this used to be no issue when cars had suspensions that were heavy and overbuilt, nowadays though suspension components are so lightweight/pussified that even the little difference in roadforce can make people feel their tires are "out of balance" even though dynamically its perfect its just the sidewall.

i used to have to fight this shit allll the time on expensive cars people bought that they didnt want to spend the coin for good tires

Turbocharged400sbc wrote:

is the WB setup to be datalogged or ya going by eyeball?

It's connected to one of the aeroforce gauges and a tuner analog input plug ready for logging.

shoot for tomorrow/today afternoon/night then? i got runnin around to do so ill try to run that early

Very nice day today. James and I got a solid start to my mess of a tune. Got the VE much closer, updated the spark timing table, and maf tuning is well in progress now.

As for the stalling thing, the relay didn't solve it. It died out like 3 or 4 times throughout the day. James had me swap another tps onto my northstar throttle body and since then, I haven't had any stalls. I pray it stays that way.

In other news, I now have an intercooler pump and once tax returns are received, I'll go head and order the front mount and hopefully get this IC functioning soon!

Re: the stalling thing - you should see what your IAC % is at idle, and see if you can adjust the throttle plate open a little more. We did this on my N* throttle body and it made a huge difference in idle stability.

The OE throttle blade stop adjustment screw is mashed into place, not adjustable, so we bent the bracket a little so that it holds the throttle plate open a little more.

you can do like the whippledRiv and ditch your air conditioning so you can fit a bmw 5 series radiator where the condensor used to be

Turbocharged400sbc wrote:

you can do like the whippledRiv and ditch your air conditioning so you can fit a bmw 5 series radiator where the condensor used to be

My condenser is definitely stayin. I'm gonna throw the HE right on top of the engine and get a huge scoop for the hood like a subaru

i hate you lol
frozenboost HE101 is good, if anything you should talk to al and you can see his 101 to see if you like it. them riv's have plenty of room for an icebox tank setup too

The heat exchanger arrived. It's a f***ing beast! I don't feel like I'll be loosing any impact protection at all after putting it in place of some bumper mass. lol I'm still waiting on hose - If I'm lucky, it'll be here this week and I can get most of this done before I start at my new job.

I've still got a kr problem to solve. I'm getting knock readings while cruising barely touching the throttle. Thinkin it's either something touching and vibrating or the sensors being mismatched or faulty.

Also the year old battery that I melted a pin hole leak into by shorting the nitrous hose to the battery terminal and chassis ground has lost enough acid that it only provides about 11.6v so I have to connect a battery charger to the car any time I want to tune! Pain in the ass! I rtv'd the leak spot and pried off the top so I could refill the cells. As I feared, I overfilled some and now the battery has pissed out some more electrolyte into my car. I'm done fucking around with batteries. The stealership sells the delco for the same price as aftermarket so I'm gonna go pick one up in the next couple days. I feel like I've been getting a lot of $100 here, $150 there, another $100 there type of stuff lately! I'm definitely ready to not be driving the car for work every day.

Oh and also called up Earl's Indy and ordered a new nitrous nozzle hose 9" long with a nice smooth hose end elbow to replace the 24" one that comes with the ZEX kit. This will fit/look a crap ton better and give a cleaner "hit". Shorter the nozzle hose, the better!

I feel your pain! first it was coil over shocks and front struts and springs and control arms for my mini van "Head hung in shame" then sway links and control arms on the Riv. then I found the crack in the front sub frame! now I need two mini van tires and alignment! and still need to get that crack welded! F*#K! whats next! oh yah... and my wife is pissed at me! ok I was an ass but Im a man. I can fix almost anything but after 20 yrs with her I still havent learned to keep my mouth shut!

before pump

I picked up a 2" clampy deal and a rubber insulating donut from Ace hardware and it work perfectly to mount the Johnson intercooler pump. I like that pump a lot. It's a little bit lower profile than the bosch pump but just as good for flow and rebuildable too.





The clamp nestled in perfectly mounted on the other side of the passenger side horn mount bracket and no holes need to be drilled. I couldn't ask for more. I don't know how difficult it will be to get to with the bumper skin on but I think it'll be decently accessible with just the splash guards off.




some more odd shots of the pump

On to the cooler. I thought about some different approaches to this and even considered mounting it turned around so that the mounting tabs are forward and then I'd connect the top mounting tabs to the impact bar instead of mounting the bottom tabs to the core support like everyone has done. I ended up taking the more conventional route.



bottom tabs mounted





Here's the other thing I was worried about. I kept looking at this thing and eventually it occurred to me to try something even though I haven't seen it work yet. Leave the hood latch frame in! The pictures above show what I changed. I basically just took the cross braces and unscrewed them from the core support lip, flipped the nuts around and moved the brace ends to the inside (rear side) of the lip then screw them back in. That just gets them out of the way of the cooler - Done! The hood latch support just got 1/2" sleeves to set the bottom rearward (towards the ac condenser and away from the new cooler). I had to use new bolts due to the extra 1/2".

There's a terrible pic of everything in and the space behind the heat exchanger. The cooler is resting right up against the hood latch frame. Actually I'm going to brace it the top of the cooler with it with a piece of flat aluminum, and bolts. When I do that, I'll take pics of it. For now, zip ties are holding it tight on top.

front mount area plumbing





pump area plumbing




core area plumbing






Some notes. All the hose is 3/4" except for the pieces coming off the core itsself. Those heater core pipe ends are 5/8" which is why I have adapters and such right off the core. Anywhere elbows are needed, I used 5/8 copper elbows which actually have the same ID as 3/4" hose and they are very smooth, nonrestrictive, and low profile. As far as I can tell, the fluid system works great. There's no air problems and pressure seems fairly low based off what the high side hose feels like so flow should be excellent.

More to come on this...

oooooo. Very cool to see this coming together.

Welp I gots the intercooler 99% done as it will be for now. I just need to run a wire from the relay to a switch in the cabin so I can shut off the pump. Soon, I'll need to go to the hardware store and replace the bolts and nuts for the radiator cover deal since a few snapped due to rust - no big deal. I tested it out not long ago and I switched to a 3.0 pulley and ran it a few times to the top of 2nd without any new KR. Random cruising throttle KR hasn't really changed. Sometimes it's there sometimes not. Although I didn't drive it in hot weather for a long time yet, I am surprised at how fast the heat dispenses from the system. After some driving, I got out and felt the hoses and heat exchanger and nothing was even what I'd consider warm - tad bit warmer than ambient maybe. I suppose that's a good thing. I'll do the same again tomorrow after I drive 35mi to my parents for Easter.

Random tidbit: Going from 3.2 to a 3.0 pulley, I see the same boost as before as far as I can tell, about 12psi and it's about 55F out. I've even had peaks higher than that before. IS3 cam? Anyway I'll get some more pics in tomorrow probably

I wonder if those radiator cross braces can be eliminated if you run a front STB?

robotennis61 wrote:

I wonder if those radiator cross braces can be eliminated if you run a front STB?

I was pretty happy not to have to delete them The bolts at the top of them are not easy to deal with either. I'd rather have the strength regardless.
I think the others just took them out and I assume they've been fine with it. I'd probably avoid sitting on that piece though without those supports.


As for the car, it seems like it's making lots of power until the part throttle KR puts it into bad fuel spark and then it's a dog. I'm assuming that's what's happening since I have nothing in my FSM or tuner that describes when the PCM switches to the bad fuel spark tables. I haven't gone in and compared the real life timing to the tables to check. Kind of a pain in the ass and still not 100% certain.

How is your timing table?

One thing I found very helpful was to export the timing table to csv/excel, and look at it as a 3d chart. Look for sudden sharp spikes and valleys and smooth them out. That eliminated a lot of part throttle KR for me.

Tuning takes a long time. Lots of trial/error and repetition.

Some more IC pics and stuff




I had to turn the pump a bit from the earlier pics because it would touch the bumper and resonance made it like twice as loud. The pics above is how I ended up putting it.



done

Some reference shots of the fuel rails and brackets I redid for the install.

That's what I did about the alternator bracket problem with the raised blower. It's probably not as sturdy of a support but you could just run without it anyway. I just like the idea of having it anyway. I just have a aluminum bar which I threaded a bolt into to be a stud so I don't have to worry about stripping the threads in the aluminum ever.

I think those are 1/2" spacer sleeves under the MAP sensor bracket. Height is perfect.

Some other stuff


The wideband unit ended up going right next to the glove box there.





I broke one of the studs for the bracket that holds the bumper on. It rusted and I didn't use lube or anything. Anyway I made a new one out of aluminum bar and stainless button head screws with red thread locker. Better than the original

New custom nitrous hose came from Earls Indy

The long one there is the 24" line you get in the ZEX kit. The 9" with the elbow end is what I ordered to replace it.

obviously waaay too long


much neater and more better for the nitrous system!

Random other shots mostly off my phone


old front tires I finally replaced lol