Growling/Grinding/Chuffing/Clicking Sounds From Front End

I agree with everything you said Aaron, and will add only this car is my baby and I want the best for her!

Gonna have my brakes thoroughly inspected while the calipers are off too.... may just heve them replace pads while it is all apart anyway...

might as well... take a good look at the rotors too. you'll have it all apart to replace the bearings. Would be a shame to have to take it all apart again in 6 months to replace the brakes.

Agreed... complete inspection and brake rehab as necessary... I will find the cash somewhere regardless of what we come across.
The good news is that my mechanic understands that while this is my baby, there are no federal TARP funds available for it....

Good idea taking a look at the brakes. If you do need new pads, take read through our thread on pads and rotors. Good pads can make great improvement on our cars, whether you're looking for stopping power, low noise, low dust - and it might not cost as much as you think.

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/brakes-suspension-f6/rotors-and-pads-t2081.htm

Hubs arrived today... Monday I go to see my mechanic and have them installed. Also going to put the "ram air" addition on to feed my airbox. Cant wait!

Just curious, did you buy the hub/bearings from Rock Auto?

Yep, got 2 Timken front bearing/hub assemblies from Rock Auto, $103/ea. <$10 bucks shipping to the house. Mechanic gave me the thumbs up on the part selection so thanks to Aaron and everyone who pointed me to the Timkens!

Off topic, while I was there I had him install my cold air ram modification too. I made a scoop and he installed it under the fender similar to the FWI scoops. That feeds a 4" tube that runs up into the bottom of my airbox. The grey noise baffle is gone and the side (original) intake port on the airbox has been closed off with sheet tin and riveted in place. He even painted everything so that if you open the airbox and didn't know what stock looked like, you'd never know. As for the results of this mod.... I had a little hesitation on acceleration before, not anymore.

So, again, Thanks to all for the great advice and inspiration I always get here at this site!

posted by VJD2 in Series II Engine & Transmission:

When I turn to the right only the car makes a rubbing/shuddering noise. Almost like its hitting something but not. No difference in speed or anything. I thought I read something about this some where on here but couldn't remember. Could this be a CV joint/axle?

Thanks for any suggestions!

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Abaddon:

When turning to the right, is it a "popping" sound or is a bad shudder that you can feel in the steering wheel and possibly on the floor? I know the Riv's had an issue with the power steering pressure line grounding out on the chassis causing this noise. Mine does that every now and again. If I'm not mistaken, GM made a "fix" for this a while back by re-routing the power steering hoses.....

Mr.Riviera:

As for the grinding noise. you should check the wheel bearings (lift car and see if wheel has any wobble) and strut mount bearing. could be a CV joint, but usually that is more of a clicking noise during a turn.

I just remembered the most obvious question: Does it only do it when the vehicle is moving? If the problem is power steering related, it will do it when cranking the wheel while the car is stopped...

It definitely isn't making the same sound as a shot CV joint. Its not clicking, just like a binding/rubbing sound. I haven't noticed if it happens when the car is standing still but did notice on the way home that whenever the car leans to the left the wheel produces a louder noise. Sounds like it just might be a bearing. I'll have to jack it up and see if there is any play.

louder noise leaning to one side usually = HUB

This doesn't sound like what you are experiencing but others have, it's worth a read:
https://rivperformance.editboard.com/brakes-suspension-f6/steering-shudder-pump-or-rack-noise-t1580.htm?highlight=tsb+power+steering

Rickw wrote:

This doesn't sound like what you are experiencing but other have, it's worth a read:
https://rivperformance.editboard.com/brakes-suspension-f6/steering-shudder-pump-or-rack-noise-t1580.htm?highlight=tsb+power+steering

I suggested that dammit! Thx for the link

Hmmm, good read. I'll have to try some of the stuff in there. The noise doesn't sit well with me.

I have a chuffing, grinding noise that started randomly, a very faint tick/chuff coming and going, more and more frequent after a few days. Most audible at slower speeds, under 25 mph all the way down to 0 mph, coming from the right side with the window down, but with windows up, it almost seems to come from the center/right. Also there is a higher pitch howling at speeds over 65 mph, though I'm not sure it's related. The howl is not too loud (no one notices but me) and hard to localize. I thought it was tires (also fairly new) at first, but it seems to be getting louder over time. It's not a low growl like a wheel bearing - shifting weight to different wheels makes no difference.

I've got a couple theories, but I'd like to hear anyone's input before I jump through the next hoop!

Thx,
AA

AA wrote:

Well, it wasn't the CV joint/shaft. I swapped it out and the problem is still there, and getting louder.

The chuffing, grinding noise started randomly, a very faint tick/chuff coming and going, more and more frequent after a few days. Most audible at slower speeds, under 25 mph all the way down to 0 mph, coming from the right side with the window down, but with windows up, it almost seems to come from the center/right. Also there is a higher pitch howling at speeds over 65 mph, though I'm not sure it's related. The howl is not too loud (no one notices but me) and hard to localize. I thought it was tires (also fairly new) at first, but it seems to be getting louder over time. It's not a low growl like a wheel bearing - shifting weight to different wheels makes no difference.

I've got a couple theories, but I'd like to hear anyone's input before I jump through the next hoop!

Thx,
AA

time to get some lift time and do some old-school inspection and diagnosis.

Thx. I'm going to do some more inspection on the ground before putting the car up again. This is getting loud enough that it should be easy to locate from outside the car. I just need to find someone else to pilot the car while I listen near the wheel. I'll try to record some audio/video and post.

Here a video. It sounds like a broken or loose lug to me. What do you think?

If the lug nuts are torqued, that sure sounds like a bad hub/bearing to me.
It's entirely possible for a new bearing to have a manufacturing defect...

You'd think I could feel/hear something definately wrong with the wheel off, spinning the hub, right?

I tried rocking the wheel/hub - feels tight.

AA wrote:

You'd think I could feel/hear something definately wrong with the wheel off, spinning the hub, right?

No. Sometimes you need a heavy load, like the weight of a car, to make it apparent. Nothing else in there is load bearing, so if you were to jack up by the control arm (so the spring is loaded) and lock the e-brake, with that wheel off and spin, you should be able to duplicate the noise. (this would take an extra person to sit in the car and release the brake - and don't do it too long or fast for the sake of your differential). If no noise, but when you drop the car's weight back on the bearing, it has to be the bearing. If it were the CV shaft, it would make the noise with the control arm raised and the wheel off, or spinning it by hand. If it's only with weight on, it has to be the bearing - that's the only rotational part supporting the weight.

Quote :

If it's only with weight on, it has to be the bearing - that's the only rotational part supporting the weight.

Could this not also be the case for the lugs? I'm aiming at the lugs right now for two reasons: 1) the sound heard in the video matches very closely the sound made when tightening/loosening lug nuts with a bar. 2) My wheels as you may remember are 5x114.3 bolt pattern on 5x115 hubs. This causes mild stress to be exerted on the wheel studs when the nuts are tightened.

I haven't yet ruled the bearing out. It's just that my initial inspection suggested the hub was in good shape. If it does turn out to be the case, a friend's mom works for Timken, so they'll be getting the bad bearing back, and hopefully something in return!

ahhhh.... try putting a stock wheel back on there and see if it's the same.

edit: oh wait, you can't - f-body brakes.

Hmmmmmmmmmm.

you have hub-centering rings installed, right?