coil packs going out? need help fast!

I drive a 1995 Buick Riviera S/C
So about a year ago one of my coil packs went out. It was the top one I forget which cylinders they were. I think like 6 and idk. lol. But, the other night i pulled into my garage and at idle in drive stopped, the car was idling very rough between 600 and 800 RPM. And when I give it gas it kind of studders and doesnt go then it will take off. and if i give it too much gas it seems like it cuts out cylinders. Kinda like the fuel isnt burning in the cylinder... Also I noticed when I started my car yesterday it smelt verrrrrry Rich... Like an old 60's chevy V8. and thats not good. It never smelt like this before. I'm thinking it the coil packs. But also there is a whining noise coming fromt he motor. A tech at my local chevy dealer thought it was the power steering. But the noise changes in rpm ranges. It used to whine between 1500-2100 rpm and now it goes from 2000-3000 roughly. idk. I am a paraplegic and Don't want to be out a car for a couple days. I''m hoping buying new coil packs and replacing them will work for now at least. Also I ahve not changed my supercharger fluid since I got this car from my grandma a little over a yaar ago. I doubt it had been changed in a long while.

Have the ignition wires ever been replaced?

The smell could be the catalytic converter going bad.

I doubt the supercharger oil has anything to do with it. It should probably be changed, but after you find out what the problem is.

I replaced the spark plug wires last year. And when my coil went out the shop replaced them again. What is a better place to buy coil packs? Should I call my local Knects and see if they can get them or should I order online I found some on amazon for $30.

Aslo I took the plug wire off the top coil pack and the terminal had some sort of grease on it I think... That is the new coil pack... Should they have any sort of grease on them?

Dielectric grease on plugs and coils is common. I helps with easier removal of the wires.

Best replacement coils are stock GM coils, imo. May find a deal at: http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/catalog/frameset.cfm

I would be sure this is the problem before spending $40 ea. Check all plugs for spark.

Idk its kind of difficult to check for spark since I cannot get under my vehicle as I am in a wheelchair. But I know I can't and shouldn't drive my car since it wont rev over 3000 rpm and when i give it more throttle it just cuts out like it's losing cylinders.... its F'd lol. I just want to buy new coil packs anyways

FWIW I had a similar problem with sluggish acceleration and some of the symptoms you described and a fresh set of plugs got rid of it.

*take plugs off coil..check for any cracks...or burning/melting marks..
if you find any...then replace the coil cos it may be 'leaking' hiting spark out.

*if you did not find any cracks/burning marks or anythign weard about the coils then...check if they work..
take back seat out...pull the fuel pump reley out...

iy you do have one spear sparkplug then...take one wire off cylinder 1's sparkplug...

the cylinders go
2 4 6
1 3 5

connect the spear sparkplug whit it and hold the sparkplugs end(the ''NUT'' part of the sparkplug) against engines ground....(negative charge)
best place for it is the engine lifting hook what you can find up fron front header.

let someone crank the car whit the starter...check if you see any spark comming from the sparkplug..

do the same thign whit all the cylinders wires.

if they all gived spark then then i guess you should check the plugs.



But from what you'r telling i guess one of the coils is out.
cos it idels so bad if atleast 2 cylinders are not working..and the extra fuel is not burnign in cylinders...its pushed out of the cylinder and explouding in headers....if you keep doing it...it will damage your catalytic converter..

you will hear some weard 'explouding noise from mufflers tho...when you give gas and let go..

well....hope i was any help..


but the spear

Do you have a check engine light on? Your problem sounds very much like what my car was experiencing when my O2 sensor went out but it will cause the engine light to come on.

Thanks for all the replys. My check engine light comes on randomly I haven't had it come on in a while. I bought new spark plugs and wires a year ago.

Maybe have the car checked for codes. They are stored in the PCM, even when the SES light goes out. If your catalytic converter was had, for example, it would tell you.

Whoever reads the codes must have a scanner for '95 cars.

ye. but its so bad that i dont want to drive it. I need at least 2 coil packs... just for reliability.

After reading thru this thread, some comments that I hope help:

A catalytic converter is not really a wearout item but will fail if they get too much gas thru them for too long. Just hold that thought and let's keep working on this.

Second - regarding spark plugs. Although you're in wheelchair you should be able to use a tester such as this

http://toolmonger.com/2009/04/27/dealmonger-blackhawk-st-1214-spark-plug-testing-screwdriver/

to do a preliminary check the function of the plugs/wires -- if one's out the neon won't light. Look at the tool description - then phone local NAPA, Pep Boys or CarQuest - one or the other is bound to have this tester from not too far off this price.

Third - I agree with Snowdog, sounds like you have a bum coil. Probably instead of just replacing the coil you need to take off all the coils and clean off corrosion on the ignition module. There is another thread about that on this editboard. Point is you should not just be losing coils. The factory coils are actually quite good and will run a very long time. I would still have all mine if my #6 wire did not crap out on me a while back, taking the coil with it. My original coils have more than 200,000 miles. Matter of fact, a good bet would be to go to a junkyard and pull coils off the ignition of a compatible GM car with 3800 engine (a Park Ave, Bonneville, Regal, Century, etc). If you get 2 or 3 all or most will be good. As you know, they just unscrew with I think a 7 or 8 mm socket wrench.

Also you might want to try rockauto.com for the coil packs. THey will overnight them to you if you want but they are pricey. Standard "blue streak" is usually a decent line but otherwise I'd only get Delphi or Delco.

Third - The GM ignition is a very high energy setup. Most people on this editboard seem to be unhappy with the long run performance of most aftermarket (Autolite, Bosch) wires. Get the Delco or Delphi wires, they seem to run about 40-50K miles. I got Magnecors (www.magnecor.com) and have run them 100,000 miles no problem. the 7MM or 8MM versions will fit in your stock looms and clips (8mm require a little coaxing). But I don't know how you feel about waiting for the Magnecor folks to make and ship a set to you. In a pinch go to NAPA and talk to the counter person for suggestions. Usually NAPA parts are pretty good.

Good luck and let us all know how ti goes.

Albertj

If a coil turns out to be the problem, please let us know which of the coils was bad, the originals or the replacement from last year.

Go to www.topdeadcenterracing.com Look at the used parts section. $10.00 each
These guys have a set of good used ones for cheap money. Tell them you heard about it on Rivperformance and he might cut you a break on shipping.Good luck with the troubleshooting of the problem.

I called up Knects and they had a coil in stock that cost me$20 and they'll have another one by thursday. I replaced the middle coil pack and it solved the problem.... BUT!!!... My car has been making this whining noise and such. People think its power steering pump but I don't think so becuase my steering is not affected at all nor when I turn the wheel it makes the sound. It only whines when I rev the motor... But last night coming home, the whining changed and it sounded very different. Then i heard this noise and it sounds like popcorn from under my car. I pull over and have a friend look under my hood. I drove home slowly and then i looked and my alternator belt is frayed a little bit. And it smells like belt and burnt rubber... so idk what happed? I had the belt replaced almost a year ago... so idk?

Inspect the idler and tensioner pulleys. One may be ready to fail or has already failed. They will make a whining or grinding noise a few hundred miles beforehand. There have even been cases of a belt staying on after the pulleys fail - this would cause damage to the belt.

Also check the belt is routed correctly around all of the pulleys. Sometimes the belt can slip off a groove and cause uneven wear.

oh... s**t... umm Yea i checked under my hood before reading this.. the belt started to strip...pieces of it is wrapped around the pulleys... idk what to do now... And there some plastic rings on the inside of one of the pulleys... and I think thats where it might have been rubbing on the belt

Good news is for Series I the pulleys and belts are inexpensive, and the install isn't too bad. For Series II ('96-up) engines, there are two belts and twice as many pulleys, AND it's a pain to change them out.

Read this "Write Up" might be helpful. https://rivperformance.editboard.com/Supercharged-3800-Tech-c2/Series-II-Engine-Transmission-f4/Write-Up-Replacing-Belts-and-Pulleys-t725.htm It is for Series 2 engines though.
How many miles are on your car. If 100k or so replace all pulleys and bad belts. I just did all of mine recently after one of them started to whine and sounded like the power steering pump making noise but it was a pulley bearing starting to go. When one goes the rest are soon to follow.
They have a tendency to make noise for just short amount of time before they fail. And when they fail they just fragment themselves and belts.

Yeah Thats exactly what happened! And... My car has 120,000 miles on it. So How much do you think im looking at here? just in parts.. This sucks bad because im moving out of my house and getting my first apartment with my girlfriend in two weeks! :O

The pulleys are around $20.00 each and am not sure of the price of belts.
I bought all my stuff at a local auto parts store and they had everything in stock. I just can't find the receipt right now.
The Series one is so much easier to do than the Series 2 as you don't have to remove the engine mount according to what I've read on this site.
Maybe someone with a Series 1 engine can help out here.
Good Luck.

Also read thru this thread. There is a list of part numbers for all the pulleys for a 95
https://rivperformance.editboard.com/series-i-engine-transmission-f13/pulleys-t4464.htm?highlight=pulleys
And use the Search engine on here and type in "Pulleys" there are several write ups regarding the topic.

Alright thanks man.

I made a correction and added some info to the above post. Look again!!!!