1995 buick riviera supercharged has no spark

I changed the Ignition control module, crankshaft position sensor and check the fuel but there is still no spark coming to my spark plugs at all. The car turns over and cranks for about 2 seconds and then cuts off immediately please help my baby has been sittin too long lol.

Are you getting any trouble codes?

You need a NOID set of lights to check if the injectors are actually firing.  That is you could have fuel pressure but the PCM might not be telling the injectors to fire.

You need a scanner to check for codes. For a '95 it's a little tough.

You might actually have a security system problem.  Is the SECURITY idiot light on when you try to crank?

Albertj

bigriv0 wrote:

I changed the Ignition control module, crankshaft position sensor and check the fuel but there is still no spark coming to my spark plugs at all. The car turns over and cranks for about 2 seconds and then cuts off immediately please help my baby has been sittin too long lol.

You have at least 2 things happening based on the above statement.
You have no spark (ignition system not working correctly)
You are losing the start circuit after 2 seconds of cranking.
You do not mention your fuel situation. But that can wait for now.
The fact that your losing your starter after 2 seconds is a problem. (obviously).
Do you have an aftermarket remote start system or an aftermarket alarm system.?
The GM alarm and anti-theft system does not disable the starter to my knowledge. You need to find the common point for the loss of the start circuit and loss of ignition, and possibly fuel once you check the injectors pulse width with either a NOID light or a home made test with a test light.
If the car has any aftermarket starter or alarm systems remove them and restore all wiring to original before replacing any more parts or chasing wires.
It sounds very much like someone installed an aftermarket system because: the fuel system is normally wired such that when you turn the key to "ON" the Fuel Pump is supposed to run for 2 seconds. If you continue with the switch to the "Start" position and all systems are good (PCM and ICM are happy) then pump will continue to run and car is started. The 2 second run time of your starter is very curious as it should not be tied into the fuel pump control in any way. Unless someone has been messing with wires or the whole 2 second thing is just a coincidence.
Do you have the factory service manual to use for a troubleshooting and wiring guide.
With problems like this the books can be a lifesaver.
Maybe someone else on here has experienced the loss of Ignition and Start at the same time.....If so maybe they can chime in and help.

sounds like the 'rump' of an aftermarket alarm is installed, and at the same time there's a VATS problem.

We'll see.

Great advice Rick.

Albertj

it has sort of a rough start then stumbles for a sec then cuts straight off.

bigriv0 wrote:

it has sort of a rough start then stumbles for a sec then cuts straight off.

bigriv0 wrote:

The car turns over and cranks for about 2 seconds and then cuts off immediately

"2 seconds and cuts off Immediately" is a very precise statement,

where as "it has sort of a rough start then stumbles and quits" is not so precise.

Now these sound like two totally different things.
It's difficult for us to help unless we know what it is and is not doing.

Have you looked for an aftermarket alarm or remote start or both.
If it has any of these installed the control box's for them and most of the wiring will be under the drivers side panel. The one that gives you access to the steering column.
Remove that panel and look for stuff that doesn't belong. These installers usually crimp all sorts of connectors and just stuff the excess wiring up in there.
If you find something and are not comfortable with wiring then bring it to a place that does installs and pay to have it all removed.
I almost forgot, but it's not running - so you'll have to try it yourself or have it towed.
Not trying to be a dick or anything, I hope it doesn't come across that way.
I just don't know exactly where your problem is but you have to start with what could be considered the obvious first, then work your way through a process of troubleshooting.

albertj wrote:

and at the same time there's a VATS problem. Albertj

Albert,
What makes you think it could be VATS related.????

Rickw wrote:

albertj wrote:

and at the same time there's a VATS problem. Albertj

Albert,
What makes you think it could be VATS related.????

After the "rough start then it stumbles for a second..." comment - nothing.

I'm wondering if this vehicle has been sitting somewhere and the gas in the tank is now bad. As the owner says, "my baby has been sittin too long." Werd. I wonder how much gas is in the tank and how long it's been there. Not to mention wondering what's really going on with the troubleshooting.

Albertj

i do have an aftermarket remote start kit on it...i had it put in last year in may and my car messed up this year in march but im going to take it off tomorrow and see where it takes me from there.

bigriv0 wrote:

i do have an aftermarket remote start kit on it...i had it put in last year in may and my car messed up this year in march but im going to take it off tomorrow and see where it takes me from there.

That could most definitely be your problem. Good Luck, maybe that will do it.

Bert

I've been thinking about posting an explanation of why the Riv's electrical system is so touchy.

As for the remote start kit - it's not necessarily the problem, but its presence makes troubleshooting nearly impossible. After the problem is found and fixed maybe you can reinstall it... if you still want it.

Albertj

man that still didnt do it....think it could be the PCM??????

to get a replacement PCM you need to either take your car to a dealer or independent mechanic that has a 2-way scan tool capable of programming your VIN and VATS code into the PCM, then running a CASE learn after PCM installation - or - provide your VIN number to a dealer (there's at least 2 on eBay) who will do everything but the VATS (you can do this w/o tool it just takes a while) and CASE learn (you can't really do this yourself without a Tech II or HPTuners 2-way scanner).

One such dealer is "spareecm" on eBay. Replacement will run you about $83 including postage. I got one form them.

That said - sounds like you either have a busted wire (look at the engine wiring in the vicinity of the exhaust manifold for heat-fatigued wires and connectors) or a bum PCM. No wonder the car was sitting. I think you're onto something.

Albertj

preciate the help i will keep you updated.

U R welcome; sure you must be at least kinda frustrated by now but hopefully you'll save about $100 while getting a good PCM. They ship fast.

Albertj

yea i am i done changed everything possible and nothing worked so hopefully this is what i need.

where is the PCM located at on 1995 buick riviera? i removed the air filter housing now where from there?????

Not sure on the '95, but on the '98 it's inside the pass. compartment behind the glove box.

Hi Albert,

My daughters 95 returned to hard starting when hot. yesterday no spark! down hard.

already changed ICM, coils, Crank PS 2x, cam sensor 2x. Grnds and fuses good.

im stumped.

Hi Albert,

My daughters 95 returned to hard starting when hot. yesterday no spark! down hard.

already changed ICM, coils, Crank PS 2x, cam sensor 2x. Grnds and fuses good.

im stumped.

Thank you

Found fuel pressure is now weak too 30-40ibs.
How do I combat security problem. Want to disable it.

no spark for sure

Have a friend with snap on code reader. needed because it is an obd 1.5....
think it can see ignition and fuel signals

let me know if you have any basic checks.

thank you
Joe

redbaron wrote:

Thank you

Found fuel pressure is now weak too 30-40ibs.
How do I combat security problem. Want to disable it.

no spark for sure

Have a friend with snap on code reader. needed because it is an obd 1.5....
think it can see ignition and fuel signals

let me know if you have any basic checks.

thank you
Joe

95 is OBD-I with an OBD-II connector. Other than a Tech-II i don't know how to read it.

IF your fuel pressure is weak your issue will be (a) fuel pressure regulator (b) fuel pump (c) fuel filter [rare] (d) fuel line [rare and obvious]

If your fuel pressure regulator is not an OE Bosch unit, and it is more than 18 months old, it probably died just replace it. An OE FPR from a pick n pull yard is a good bet.

Thank you Albert!

Agreed.
Bypassing VATS this week too.