Write-Up: Replacing rear rotors and pads. (lots of pics)

tool = cube thing

yeah, figured that out quick haha, thankfully my brother had one at his shop

Hey Guys, I've looked here and online and can't find anything that shows you how to remove the integrated parking brake cable from the caliper when its time to replace them. Does anyone have any pics or can someone describe in detail how to separate the e-brake from the rear calipers?

No one has replaced the rear calipers on their Riv?

BMD wrote:

No one has replaced the rear calipers on their Riv?

I've had them off this and other Buicks several times. It's a PITA to get the parking brake cable disconnected, but there is no magic to it. A good set of needle nose vice grips will help. You need to compress the spring and pull the cable out. The cable brackets unbolt and you also will want to unbolt the cable guide on the control arm. 13 and 14mm sockets to get everything off (I think)

Thanks Derek, I'll take a look at them. I plan to do 'em before the fall. If I need some help at that time, hopefully you'll be around to offer some direction.  

BMD wrote:

Thanks Derek, I'll take a look at them. I plan to do 'em before the fall. If I need some help at that time, hopefully you'll be around to offer some direction.  

I can tell you that they aren't easy. But they aren't THAT hard either. I may or may not be able to admit that I fought with one for over an hour putting them back together one day. Usually it's a 5 minute job. Good luck.

deekster_caddy wrote:

BMD wrote:

Thanks Derek, I'll take a look at them. I plan to do 'em before the fall. If I need some help at that time, hopefully you'll be around to offer some direction.  

I can tell you that they aren't easy. But they aren't THAT hard either. I may or may not be able to admit that I fought with one for over an hour putting them back together one day. Usually it's a 5 minute job. Good luck.

Yep... if you remember to release the parking brake and if the adjuster's not wound too tight then you can get the cable back on with vise grips and a smile. If not, it will take a while.

Albertj

Did my rear pads & rotors yesterday. Even though rusty, my original rear calipers are still working at 282855 miles. It's a pretty easy job that doesn't need to happen that often, but I did run into one snag. Here are a few tips:



The way it's supposed to work, turning the piston clockwise compresses it into the caliper, providing space for fresh pads & rotor. For a long time this worked pretty well. I would even use a small air ratchet to speed things up. But a few years ago I noticed using the air ratchet didn't compress the piston, but using a manual, hand ratchet worked - very confusing, WTF??!

So Yesterday I was having trouble with the hand ratchet, too. Turning it, the piston wouldn't move into the caliper. I tried a little clamping pressure while turning the ratchet, and presto, it went right in. It seems the air ratchet didn't require a lot of pressing force, so that would explain it. If you're ever turning without results, try using a quick-grip style clamp over the ratchet head.



At least once per year I like to lube the rear trailing arms with grease. Mine are rusty, and the grease boots are a little cracked, but keeping them lubed up has extended their life. Still very tight when I give them a good tug.

What kind of grease do you use, AA?

AGS Sil-glyde Brake Lubricant

I like to put the bracked and caliper back in place without the rotor so there is something to push on without having the caliper all loose. Good idea about using the clamp!